question for 8n ford

So this 8n I got is a toughie for me. I made a mistake on pull the distributor out messing up the time I have tried plenty times to fix the issue did what the book said and the btdc 4 degress didn't work I was wondering if it is possible would the fly wheel being moved off and put back on some way meess with the timing as welll
far as I have know there should be bump behind the crank shaft to center it again. full of a lot of idk, need help

Welcome to the forum!
I would try following the book again and making sure when you
set #1 on TDC that it is on TDC of the compression stroke.
Then set the distributor and make sure #1 plug wire is on the
cap terminal that the rotor points to.
Plug wires then go 1-2-4-3 CCW.

(quoted from post at 18:53:46 02/24/20) So this 8n I got is a toughie for me. I made a mistake on pull the distributor out messing up the time I have tried plenty times to fix the issue did what the book said and the btdc 4 degress didn't work I was wondering if it is possible would the fly wheel being moved off and put back on some way meess with the timing as welll
far as I have know there should be bump behind the crank shaft to center it again. full of a lot of idk, need help

Click to expand...

ASSUMING this a a "side-mount" distributor 8N, there are two TDC timing marks on the flywheel, 180 apart, plus two #1 TDC's, one (that you are looking for) at the end of the compression stroke and one 360 later, TDC at the end of the exhaust stroke.

Clear as mud?

(I hope!)
So, picking the first mark that comes into view, you have a one in four chance of it being the correct one one the correct revolution.

Hold a finger OVER the #1 sparkplug hole while someone SLOWLY cranks the engine with the hand crank.

As #1 comes up on TDC on the compression stoke, air will rush out past your finger.

At TDC, that will cease and as it piston begins to go down, it will SUCK air in.

So, the TDC you are trying to find is at the end of the "blow" and just before the "suck".

Before taking the picture, I placed the
crank on the flywheel till it fit. Then
lifted it up and rotated it 180 deg, and
it fit in a second time. The dowels on
the crank won't allow any other
alignment. Either way your flywheel is
positioned, it will work fine. You just
have to follow the excellent advice
already given.

John

Good evening: I just got here, looked at comment, and I think you must mean 180 degrees, where you put 360. Just me thinking....

Dennis M. in W. Tenn.

Remove the #1 spark plug. (removing all of them makes the job a bit easier) Ignition off, place your thumb over the #1 spark plug hole and crank slowly until compression is felt. Continue to crank the engine until you see the timing mark, 0* (top dead center) on the flywheel through the timing hole in the right side of the bell housing. Use chalk on the flywheel to exactly align the 4 degree mark with the pointer. Hold the distributor beside the engine. W/ the distributor oiler at the 7 o'clock position & the stud at 9 o'clock, turn the rotor until it points roughly at the right front head bolt. (close counts) Now insert the distributor. Rotate the distributor housing counter clockwise until the points are closed. Put the cap on & double check the plug wires, 1-2-4-3, CCW. Then, remove the primary wire from the side of the distributor (or at the coil, whichever is easier) Put one lead of your VOM (set on resistance) on the stud on the side of the distributor & the other on the block or other good ground. Slowly turn the distributor. The needle will move as the points close & then open. Find the exact spot just as the points open & then tighten down the distributor.

Now check your work (and the dynamic timing) w/ a light.

If it won't idle below 500 rpm (400 is better) don't bother w/ a light.

If it idles ok, make 3 marks w/ chalk or white paint on the flywheel:

4*
10*
17*

Start the engine.

At idle, the light should flash & the marker should line up exactly at 4* if you did the static timing correctly.

If not, loosen the distributor & turn it until the marks line up. It should take very little adjustment.

Once you've got that done, increase the engine speed to 1200 rpms. The light should flash & the marker should line up w/ the 10* mark. Then, increase the rpms to 2000 & look for the marker to align w/ the 17* mark.

Close counts on the advanced timing. A degree or 2 either way is ok. But, no movement or 5* or more off means you have an advance weight problem. You don't adjust the distributor to fix that.
75 Tips

Go slow, start over, listen to our advice. The OEM Owner Manual and the Clymer I&T FO-4 Manual have good, straight forward instructions for setting the timing on the 8N angle (side) mount distributor. Did you set the breaker points to .025"? Are your ignition wires correct? Firing order is 1,2,4,3.

FORD 8N TRACTOR WIRING & TIMING AFTER S/N 263843:

Tim Daley(MI)

(quoted from post at 21:37:03 02/24/20) Good evening: I just got here, looked at comment, and I think you must mean 180 degrees, where you put 360. Just me thinking....

Dennis M. in W. Tenn.

Click to expand...

Let me suggest you think a little more.

Hint - this is a 4 cycle engine.

TOH

You say you tried several times, but it still doesn't work. You pulled the distributor for a reason. New points and condenser maybe? Besides getting the timing right, are you getting spark to the plugs?

Good afternoon; You are right, I spoke too quickly!

Dennis M. in W. Tenn.

Good deeds did all that and thinking rebuilding the carb as well.
Can't wait to start it this late spring
I'll post on seeing if it works