Mechanic for 9 N

Otto1941 · Feb 14, 2020

I recently took over a 41 9 N that s been in the family for 40 years. It did a lot sitting and not being run for the last 4 of them. Last summer I started it with a jump a few times and it ran ok until one day it just lost power and quit running . Started up a few days later ran 20 minutes and did the same thing. I have tried it several times since and can get it to crank and it seems like it s trying to fire but just won t catch and run. I ve checked the visible parts of the fuel system and checked electrical connections, power across the switch and things like that. I have come to the conclusion that it needs a real mechanic and all it has is me. ( And I m too busy to put in the time it needs)
The tractor lives on Whidbey island in Washington. Does anyone know of a reliable mechanic or shop to give this tractor some attention?

Bruce (VA) · Feb 15, 2020

These tractors are simple machines; it?s usually pretty easy to get them running with some basic troubleshooting stps.

You could have a spark issue.

You could have a fuel issue.

Don?t guess. Troubleshoot. See tip # 13. And, tip # 39.

You need to answer 2 questions before you do anything else:

With the bolt in the carb bowl removed and the gas on, will the fuel flow fill a pint jar in less than 2 minutes?

Next, get out your adjustable gap spark checker * , open the gap to 1/4", hook it up, turn the key on and crank the engine. Does the spark jump 1/4"? Post back with the answers.

And do not buy a new part for the tractor until you can answer this question: how do I know the part on the tractor is defective?

Once you narrow the problem to spark or fuel, post back and tell us what you found (and how you found it) and you will get plenty of help to get your tractor running.

* Don't own an adjustable gap spark checker? Buy one! Not a test light! Until then, take an old plug, open the gap 1/4" ground it to the head & look for spark. It?s not the color of the spark that counts; it?s the distance it jumps.

https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/ignition-tester/oemtools-adjustable-ignition-spark-tester/10257_0_0?cmpid=PLA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:TLS:71700000043798748&gclid=Cj0KCQiAovfvBRCRARIsADEmbRKBdAvAmtFfOvYiYXR7T6NYiW57uyv5-dEKjVT_h2KogQNUUMsRixYaAlU3EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
75 Tips

Jim L WA · Feb 15, 2020

That's a nice looking 9N. Besides what Bruce said, how much gas is in the tank? If it's low, are you opening the shutoff valve all the way? Also you mentioned that you had to jump it to start it. I see it has a generator, is it still a 6 volt? If so, how are you jumping it?

grizz02 · Feb 15, 2020

Im in cle elum if you could get it here I would be happy to work on it for you

Mike in Wisconsin · Feb 15, 2020

I think I spotted an added on in line fuel filter. That could be your problem. Do the electrical and fuel flow test and go from there. Good luck and you have a nice looking tractor there!

Tomatoboy · Feb 15, 2020

Like Bruce says, these tractors are super simple machines. On top of that, they aren?t very valuable, while mechanic services can be pretty expensive.
I?ve heard of folks paying a mechanic nearly enough they could have purchased a working N just to get theirs running again, usually for stuff they can
fix themselves. Chances are it?s something simple and not all that time consuming.

Otto1941 · Feb 16, 2020

Grizz, thanks for the offer, it may come to that but it would be spring before I want to haul it over the passes.

Bruce, Jim and everyone else I will start with your suggestions but I have to warn you it s going to take a while. With all of life s commitments I m lucky to get in a few hours to work at it every other weekend. I"ll try the fuel and spark plug checks next weekend and post what I find.

Tim PloughNman Daley RIP · Feb 16, 2020

HiYa Otto-
I'll agree that you don't have to contact a mechanic if you are capable of doing basic mechanical and electrical work yourself. The best investment you can make as a newbie is to get copies of the Essential Manuals and read religiously. Know what you are getting into so you don't hurt yourself or a part of the tractor. I see a generator so that means it should still be 6V/POS GRN which is good. Your issue sounds like a fuel problem but don't guess and don't buy any new parts not knowing if old is defective. I'd start with a fuel flow test. It's simple, easy, and takes less than half an hour. With tractor OFF and engine COLD, get a drip pan or empty coffee can and place under the carburetor. The Fuel Sediment Bulb Valve should be shut off when tractor is off. On the bottom of the carb is an NPT drain plug. Loosen and remove it. Position pan under it and open the fuel flow valve 2 turns. Observe the fuel flows at a steady uninterrupted stream about as thick as a pencil. You should have about a 1 pint of gas in 2 minutes. If so, turn valve off and replace the drain plug. Next, use a 7/16" flare nut wrench and loosen the steel fuel line at the carb inlet brass elbow. Gently take the line off to the side of carb and point down to the drip pan. Again open valve 2 turns and see if flow is free or obstructed. An obstruction can be caused by the filter on the brass elbow, remove and inspect and clean it, or the sediment bulb and/or screens are plugged, or the vent on gas tank i plugged, or all of the above. Take an hour out of your busy schedule to check this first. You can do much of the PM yourself on these N's. I understand about work and home schedules and not having the time, but a mechanic will cost you $50 an hour and that is a cheap one. Report back with results and we will discuss when we cross that bridge.

Probable NO-GO fuel issue causes are: plugged vent, plugged screens, plugged sediment bulb, dirty gas tank, dirty carb, and more. There are three OEM screens in the fuel system. Two are on the Sediment Bulb Assembly; the 3rd is on the brass elbow inside the carb where the fuel line connects to. SEE PICTURES. I wouldn?t be shoving anything, wires especially, up into the sediment bulb assembly. You have a vertical fine mesh screen on the inlet port inside the tank that you can damage. Best solution is to remove the tank and thoroughly clean. The ESSENTIAL MANUALS are your friend. PM is so important to maintain any piece of machinery.

FORD N-SERIES TRACTOR FUEL SYSTEM & POSSIBLE CAUSES OF NO FUEL:

FORD 9N/2N TRACTOR ESSENTIAL OWNER/OPERATOR/PARTS/SERVICE MANUALS:

Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)

Otto1941 · Feb 22, 2020

Ok I tried the fuel and spark tests.
On the fuel,
Removing The bolt on the bottom of the carburetor the fuel ran about 13 ounces in two minutes. I tried it again by removing the flexible hose just above the carburetor And it ran 16 oz in 1 minute 20 seconds.

I tried the spark with an inline spark tester ( sorry Bruce I grabbed the bulb kind) I pulled the cap off the plugs one at a time, connected the tester and cranked the engine. There was no light on any of them .
What should I try next?

Otto1941 · Feb 23, 2020

(quoted from post at 16:14:46 02/16/20) HiYa Otto-
I'll agree that you don't have to contact a mechanic if you are capable of doing basic mechanical and electrical work yourself. The best investment you can make as a newbie is to get copies of the Essential Manuals and read religiously. Know what you are getting into so you don't hurt yourself or a part of the tractor. I see a generator so that means it should still be 6V/POS GRN which is good. Your issue sounds like a fuel problem but don't guess and don't buy any new parts not knowing if old is defective. I'd start with a fuel flow test. It's simple, easy, and takes less than half an hour. With tractor OFF and engine COLD, get a drip pan or empty coffee can and place under the carburetor. The Fuel Sediment Bulb Valve should be shut off when tractor is off. On the bottom of the carb is an NPT drain plug. Loosen and remove it. Position pan under it and open the fuel flow valve 2 turns. Observe the fuel flows at a steady uninterrupted stream about as thick as a pencil. You should have about a 1 pint of gas in 2 minutes. If so, turn valve off and replace the drain plug. Next, use a 7/16" flare nut wrench and loosen the steel fuel line at the carb inlet brass elbow. Gently take the line off to the side of carb and point down to the drip pan. Again open valve 2 turns and see if flow is free or obstructed. An obstruction can be caused by the filter on the brass elbow, remove and inspect and clean it, or the sediment bulb and/or screens are plugged, or the vent on gas tank i plugged, or all of the above. Take an hour out of your busy schedule to check this first. You can do much of the PM yourself on these N's. I understand about work and home schedules and not having the time, but a mechanic will cost you $50 an hour and that is a cheap one. Report back with results and we will discuss when we cross that bridge.

Probable NO-GO fuel issue causes are: plugged vent, plugged screens, plugged sediment bulb, dirty gas tank, dirty carb, and more. There are three OEM screens in the fuel system. Two are on the Sediment Bulb Assembly; the 3rd is on the brass elbow inside the carb where the fuel line connects to. SEE PICTURES. I wouldn?t be shoving anything, wires especially, up into the sediment bulb assembly. You have a vertical fine mesh screen on the inlet port inside the tank that you can damage. Best solution is to remove the tank and thoroughly clean. The ESSENTIAL MANUALS are your friend. PM is so important to maintain any piece of machinery.

FORD N-SERIES TRACTOR FUEL SYSTEM & POSSIBLE CAUSES OF NO FUEL:
<center><img src="https://i.imgur.com/aYjnNhrh.jpg"></center>
<center><img src="https://i.imgur.com/5kg5WXLh.jpg"></center>
<center><img src="https://i.imgur.com/6javxgvh.jpg"></center>
<center><img src="https://i.imgur.com/v8ej8sZh.jpg"></center>
<center><img src="https://i.imgur.com/cpzSswah.jpg"></center>

FORD 9N/2N TRACTOR ESSENTIAL OWNER/OPERATOR/PARTS/SERVICE MANUALS:
<center><img src="https://i.imgur.com/i2gbSeol.jpg"></center>

Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)

Ok I tried the fuel and spark tests.
On the fuel,
Removing The bolt on the bottom of the carburetor the fuel ran about 13 ounces in two minutes. I tried it again by removing the flexible hose just above the carburetor And it ran 16 oz in 1 minute 20 seconds.

I tried the spark with an inline spark tester ( sorry Bruce I grabbed the bulb kind) I pulled the cap off the plugs one at a time, connected the tester and cranked the engine. There was no light on any of them .
What should I try next?

Den N Ms · Feb 23, 2020

Otto,Better go back to the store and GRAB the correct adjustable spark tester so you can check your spark.

Mechanic for 9 N

Otto1941

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Bruce (VA)

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Jim L WA

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grizz02

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Mike in Wisconsin

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Tomatoboy

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Otto1941

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Tim PloughNman Daley RIP

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Otto1941

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Otto1941

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Den N Ms

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