Yikes ! Wiring

I've wired my 51 8N both ways that I've seen in diagrams and both times the yellow wire from the key starter gets hot and smokes. What gives ? Do I really need the terminal block or can I just go to one side of the ammeter like one of our advisors advises ? I've tried like the diagram with DELETE over the voltage regulator and I got smoke then too. The key switch is new and hasn't been used at all hardly.
 

sounds like you've got something wired to ground. have u possibly mistaken an ammeter mounting stud for a terminal?
 

i should have asked:

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is your ammeter the same style as this one, at upper right? that's an inductive meter - the two nuts are mounting nuts, and are good grounds. no wire should be fastened to that style.
 
Thanks all - I failed to see the lead from the key switch that connects to the bottom wire of the ballast resistor. It is wired correctly now but the patient is unresponsive. I will search these posts for a " chase down the wiring problem " post. I used the wiring diagram with the "delete" over the voltage regulator. When I was replacing the wiring and saw the lead from the key switch joined to the wire from the ballast resistor with eyelet connectors and a tiny nut and bolt I thought " what kind of ridiculous nightmare is this ?"
Now I see it was the correct ridiculous nightmare.
Oh......
 
(quoted from post at 11:34:20 02/17/20) Thanks all - I failed to see the lead from the key switch that connects to the bottom wire of the ballast resistor. It is wired correctly now but the patient is unresponsive. I will search these posts for a " chase down the wiring problem " post. I used the wiring diagram with the "delete" over the voltage regulator. When I was replacing the wiring and saw the lead from the key switch joined to the wire from the ballast resistor with eyelet connectors and a tiny nut and bolt I thought " what kind of ridiculous nightmare is this ?"
Now I see it was the correct ridiculous nightmare.
Oh......
... the ballast resistor with eyelet connectors and a tiny nut and bolt I thought " what kind of ridiculous nightmare is this ?"
Now I see it was the correct ridiculous nightmare. "
Well, maybe you would be happier with a little wire nut from the hardware store! :twisted:
 
(quoted from post at 15:05:35 02/17/20)
(quoted from post at 11:34:20 02/17/20) Thanks all - I failed to see the lead from the key switch that connects to the bottom wire of the ballast resistor. It is wired correctly now but the patient is unresponsive. I will search these posts for a " chase down the wiring problem " post. I used the wiring diagram with the "delete" over the voltage regulator. When I was replacing the wiring and saw the lead from the key switch joined to the wire from the ballast resistor with eyelet connectors and a tiny nut and bolt I thought " what kind of ridiculous nightmare is this ?"
Now I see it was the correct ridiculous nightmare.
Oh......
... the ballast resistor with eyelet connectors and a tiny nut and bolt I thought " what kind of ridiculous nightmare is this ?"
Now I see it was the correct ridiculous nightmare. "
Well, maybe you would be happier with a little wire nut from the hardware store! :twisted:

unless the ridiculous nightmare was wrapped or preferably heatshrinked, i'd consider that wire nut to be a significant upgrade :)
 
I tested everything out and I think I fried the new solenoid on my previous incorrect wiring attempt. I got another new solenoid, this time, one that was exactly like the original, not one the parts store guy said " would work." Tractor runs great. Fired right up. Drove it around for 5 minutes and into the yard so I could clean it up and it started spewing coolant out the overflow just like it did before I replaced the radiator and water pump and put a thermostat in it because it was without one - probably removed by the PO in an effort to remedy this. I believed it was a timing issue originally before I parked it years ago. I've been going through the overheating posts here and trying to remember where my timing light is. Or if I even have one anymore.
 
The ceramic ballast resistor is right there on the engine block. I can see the two mounting holes in the firewall where the terminal block was, or where it would go. We're never quite sure what the PO was up to, as the light switch that was in it had a piece of copper tubing jammed into it where the buss fuse was supposed to be. Now that I know my wiring is correct a wire nut is exactly what I had in mind. Yes, these tiny nut/ bolt/ eyelet connections were well taped but I will use a wire nut, tape them well and zip tie the wiring up where it should be. I'm trying really hard to make everything I do be good tractor stewardship. " Leave your vintage tractors better than you found them." I want you all to know how much I appreciate this public space and how you all take the time to help and advise. I'm so grateful for the enlightenment !!!!
 

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