Upgrade Dearborn Bucket??

booyah11

Member
Hey folks, have an original bucket that I love the look of but is lacking in grunt and features. Currently it just lifts the bucket, the curl is done with a simple release lever and pin. Also, it doesn't feel like the cylinders are two way. They lift okay but just feels like gravity sets the bucket down. Ideally I would have lift, lower, curl in, curl out all under hydro power.

The other piece is POWAH...I have little. I can't hardly pull posts out of the ground :(
I haven't done anything scientific, but I'd be surprised if I have more than 500lbs of lifting force. I don't want to get too crazy and ask the tractor to do something it shouldn't, but it does feel a bit weak.

So, what's the recommendation?? I'm pretty handy so not opposed to upgrading what I have, but not sure it is worth the effort. I'd think at a minimum I'd need four new cylinders, lines, control valve and pump. Then all the fab work to get things going.

Bucket Model: Dearborn 19-21 ser# 12448
Pump Model: Front mount, 05-485

Thanks.



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(quoted from post at 17:22:24 02/04/20) Hey folks, have an original bucket that I love the look of but is lacking in grunt and features. Currently it just lifts the bucket, the curl is done with a simple release lever and pin. Also, it doesn't feel like the cylinders are two way. They lift okay but just feels like gravity sets the bucket down. Ideally I would have lift, lower, curl in, curl out all under hydro power.

The other piece is POWAH...I have little. I can't hardly pull posts out of the ground :(
I haven't done anything scientific, but I'd be surprised if I have more than 500lbs of lifting force. I don't want to get too crazy and ask the tractor to do something it shouldn't, but it does feel a bit weak.

So, what's the recommendation?? I'm pretty handy so not opposed to upgrading what I have, but not sure it is worth the effort. I'd think at a minimum I'd need four new cylinders, lines, control valve and pump. Then all the fab work to get things going.

Bucket Model: Dearborn 19-21 ser# 12448
Pump Model: Front mount, 05-485

Thanks.

I suggest you do something "scientific" like measure the hydraulic pressure. That loader is capable of lifting way more than you are describing.

TOH
 
The cylinders were only one way! There is only one hose going to the cylinder, two way has two hoses to each.

Your loader could be 75 years old, so it could be a little tired, I am.

Not practical to upgrade the loader. But you should upgrade tractor and loader, to be realistic!

Does it lift a full bucket of dirt or gravel? If so, that is about all it originally lifted.

Yes, I have ran an 8N with loader like yours for MANY years. Tractor and loader was my grandfather's and tractor is now
mine. Sold the loader. Have a skidsteer.
 
Thanks folks.

@TheOldHokie, so assuming I fixed the power issue with the current lift only feature. Would that system be able to run the additional cylinders??

@Roger in Iowa, would love a skidsteer, and a mule, and a back hoe...yes, right tool for the job. ;)

In the shortish term, would I be better off selling off this loader and buying a different one that already has some the features I'm looking for??
 
You would be better off selling tractor
and loader you have. Buy a later tractor
with loader and power steering and
heavier front axle for loader work.
Others would have better suggestions than
I in what to look for replacement. Roger
 
(quoted from post at 14:06:28 02/05/20) Thanks folks.

@TheOldHokie, so assuming I fixed the power issue with the current lift only feature. Would that system be able to run the additional cylinders??

@Roger in Iowa, would love a skidsteer, and a mule, and a back hoe...yes, right tool for the job. ;)

In the shortish term, would I be better off selling off this loader and buying a different one that already has some the features I'm looking for??

Your loader looks like it is functionally a 19-22. The 19-22 is identical to a 19-21 but came with a front mounted pump as opposed to the 19-21 that ran off the tractor hydraulics. Someone may have added the pump to a 19-21 which would explain the data plate.

The first thing you need to do is determine how much weight the loader will actually lift. The load rating on that loader is 750# at max height so load it up and see if it will lift that much - it may actually lift more. If it won't lift the rated load you have a pressure problem which is either an external leak or a worn pump. You didn't mention leaks so I would assume pump which is cheap to replace ($150/$200).

Assuming the loader is currently lifting 750# as designed the pump is working as it should and if you need more power you could try to boost the lift. That 750# is based on the diameter of the lift cylinders and the geometry of the cylinders and boom. Lift power is proportional to cylinder area so if you do nothing other than replace the cylinders with ones that have twice the cross sectional area you increase the lift power to 1500#. It will also double the time it takes to raise the boom. The lift cylinders are single acting displacement type so if you measure the diameter of the rod on the cylinders you can compute the cross sectional area of the cylinders = radius of rods squared x 2 x 3.1416. Using that and the stroke of the cylinders go shopping for two new cylinders. Depending on what you want to achieve replacement cylinders may be a cheap ($300/$400) and easy fix for your problem. You may also find the geometry is such that the boom becomes the weak link and you start breaking things or making the tractor unstable with the heavier loads. Ballast would cure the stability problem - breaking things is more complicated.

Later model Ford/Dearborn loaders of that vintage have better geometry and lift capacities of 1500# plus. If you can find one of them in good shape and at a reasonable price I think that in the long run that might be a better way to go. Probably going to cost a good bit more than $300/$400 by the time you get one on the tractor.

TOH
 
Best advice!
I can't imagine having a tractor that I had to climb up the 3 point and over the seat to get on it either.
If you like Fords, some models to look for would be 3400, 3500, 3550, 4400, 4500 and newer derivatives of those models - 340, 445, 545, etc.
 
@TheOldHokie, thanks for all the help and clarity, much appreciated. Looking around at prices of cylinders, joysticks, lines and pumps + all the fab work and agree that finding a loader with the features I want baked in is a better option.

When looking for a more capable loader are there other models I should consider?? I'll check out anything for an N series tractor but not sure what sort of cross compatibility there is with other models.

Thanks again!!
 
(quoted from post at 15:29:03 02/07/20) @TheOldHokie, thanks for all the help and clarity, much appreciated. Looking around at prices of cylinders, joysticks, lines and pumps + all the fab work and agree that finding a loader with the features I want baked in is a better option.

When looking for a more capable loader are there other models I should consider?? I'll check out anything for an N series tractor but not sure what sort of cross compatibility there is with other models.

Thanks again!!

A Wagner WM3 would probably be the cheapest way to put a stronger (1500# lift) fully hydraulic loader on your tractor but it is still a jungle gym design. It would simply bolt on in place of the Dearborn loader. Not something I would opt for.

Better step through "industrial" designs but harder to find would be a Davis (MF) loader or Ford 703 (19-97) industrial loader. If going that route you need to find something with the proper mounting kits or be ready to do some fabrication.

Bottom line is a Ford 8N is not well suited for loader work and much newer used tractors with diesel engines, PS, MFWD, and/or HST transmissions can be purchased starting around $5K. IMO that is money well spent. I went that route 25 years ago after experimenting with a loader on my 9N and I am glad I did. If I had it to do over I would have spent a thousand or so more and gone a little larger....

TOH
 
I have a step thru wagner power loader on this 240. Your would need to fabricate a front piece to hook up to your tractor. For a couple/few hundred bucks it ain't a bad loader. Or will
sell the whole tractor for $600 with PS and rare factory 3pt hitch.

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I went that route with an 8N few years ago and, as other suggest, a loader on an 8N is pretty much useless unless you drive straight, no turning. You lose so much tractor agility. I just had to have a loader, so I ended up getting a 35hp tractor with a loader. I still have the 8N, and for an occasional dirt loading, I use the scoop. Granted, you can do a lot more with a loader beside loading dirt, but the 8N is not the way to go.
 
What does the manual dump loader go for? There is one like his or simular in Roswell, New Mexico. I can message the contact information if anyone is intrested.
 
(quoted from post at 16:20:32 02/10/20) What does the manual dump loader go for? There is one like his or simular in Roswell, New Mexico. I can message the contact information if anyone is intrested.

A hundred dollars if decent - in some cases scrap.

TOH
 
Thanks for all the help and recommendations folks, really appreciate the experience and candor.

I don t mind the jungle gym yet, so if I can find a wagner cheap then likely go that route while I m young enough to regret it later.
 

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