OT Echo Chainsaw

Caryc

Well-known Member
About 7 months ago I needed to do some work on a tree on my property so I purchased an Echo Timberwolf chainsaw from Home Depot.

The saw worked great and I did all I needed to do. Total run time for the saw was maybe an hour and fifteen minutes total. I cleaned it up and blew it all off with air and emptied the gas tank and started it up to run it out of gas. I then put it away in the case for it that I also purchased with the saw. At the time I also purchased a gallon of Red Armor fuel and a gallon of bar chain oil. So that's the only fuel that was used in it.

I went to use it yesterday, so I poured some more Red Armor fuel into it and some more bar chain oil and tried to start it. I followed the book.

1. push in the compression release
2. pull out the choke
3. flip the switch on

At that point you supposed to attempt to start it. The book says pull the starter rope until you get the first pop. Then push in the choke and the comp. release again and it should start on the first or second pull.

My problem is no matter how I tried to start it, I could not even get a single pop out of it. It's like the thing is just dead. I wore myself out trying to start it, even with some pauses like a half hour to let it just sit. Then I called my nephew and he wore himself out also with not even a pop out of it.

I pulled the plug and it looked new and was a little wet. The air filter is clean with not even a speck of dirt on it.

I went back to Home Depot and they would not even deal with it since I've had it longer than 90 days. This saw has maybe an hour and a half run time on it and looks like it just came out of the box. Not even a scratch on the body or the blade bar.

Anybody got any suggestions? I did buy a new spark plug while I was in town and will give that a try after lunch.
 
My Echo will not start unless I follow the book exactly. Pump the primer
bulb until a little pressure is felt. Pull the choke all the way out. Do
not touch the throttle. A couple pulls and away it goes. If I try to drop
start it the full throttle opens the choke and it will not start. Good
luck. A chain saw is never really broken until you have tried another spark
plug.
 
(quoted from post at 14:21:15 02/02/20) My Echo will not start unless I follow the book exactly. Pump the primer
bulb until a little pressure is felt. Pull the choke all the way out. Do
not touch the throttle. A couple pulls and away it goes. If I try to drop
start it the full throttle opens the choke and it will not start. Good
luck. A chain saw is never really broken until you have tried another spark
plug.

There is no primer on this saw.
 
Many years ago, after brush cutting for
a customer, he asked if i could start
his weed eater. Don't remember the
brand. It was new and never ran.
It had fuel
Floored the throttle
Full choke
Pulled once, and it fired up and ran.
Customer couldn't believe it.
He never thought to pull the throttle---

John
 
(quoted from post at 15:12:30 02/02/20) Many years ago, after brush cutting for
a customer, he asked if i could start
his weed eater. Don't remember the
brand. It was new and never ran.
It had fuel
Floored the throttle
Full choke
Pulled once, and it fired up and ran.
Customer couldn't believe it.
He never thought to pull the throttle---

John

Also tried that. Put in new plug and nothing.
 
(quoted from post at 16:55:44 02/02/20) About 7 months ago I needed to do some work on a tree on my property so I purchased an Echo Timberwolf chainsaw from Home Depot.

The saw worked great and I did all I needed to do. Total run time for the saw was maybe an hour and fifteen minutes total. I cleaned it up and blew it all off with air and emptied the gas tank and started it up to run it out of gas. I then put it away in the case for it that I also purchased with the saw. At the time I also purchased a gallon of Red Armor fuel and a gallon of bar chain oil. So that's the only fuel that was used in it.

I went to use it yesterday, so I poured some more Red Armor fuel into it and some more bar chain oil and tried to start it. I followed the book.

1. push in the compression release
2. pull out the choke
3. flip the switch on

At that point you supposed to attempt to start it. The book says pull the starter rope until you get the first pop. Then push in the choke and the comp. release again and it should start on the first or second pull.

My problem is no matter how I tried to start it, I could not even get a single pop out of it. It's like the thing is just dead. I wore myself out trying to start it, even with some pauses like a half hour to let it just sit. Then I called my nephew and he wore himself out also with not even a pop out of it.

I pulled the plug and it looked new and was a little wet. The air filter is clean with not even a speck of dirt on it.

I went back to Home Depot and they would not even deal with it since I've had it longer than 90 days. This saw has maybe an hour and a half run time on it and looks like it just came out of the box. Not even a scratch on the body or the blade bar.

Anybody got any suggestions? I did buy a new spark plug while I was in town and will give that a try after lunch.

I have had the same difficulty last few days with my Husky 372XP. The starting instructions for it are exactly the same as your Echo. In the year plus I have owned it I have learned my saw will only start using that exact process and is very easy to flood if you dont. That first pop can be so slight you miss it and keep on cranking with the choke set which floods the plug. Once flooded it is a PITA to get it started. I have learned to stop at the first sign of non-start, remove the plug to verify it is wet. If it is I can dry it and recover as follows:
  • [*:1a5a4b3b87]Put the plug back in, pull the choke out to set the throttle lock and then push the choke back in.[*:1a5a4b3b87]DO NOT pull on the trigger as that will release the throttle lock and it floods again [*:1a5a4b3b87]Then proceed as if you just got that first pop. [/list:eek::1a5a4b3b87]It takes a half dozen pulls to get it started from there. Usually get a soft pop or two on the 3rd or 4th pull and stronger ones as I continue to pull. Using the choke again during this process will flood it so bad it will have to set overnight to purge enough gas to get it to start. Once started and run for a minute it starts on the first pull with no choke. Choking it will flood it and you are back to step one.

    YMMV,

    TOH
 
if it is getting spark, try pulling the spark plug and heat it with a propane torch. just warm it up, no cherry red or anything close to that. put the plug back
in hot and try and start it.
 
Caryc,
Not sure what is going on with you but in WI if i leave gas in the can for seven months it goes bad. The gas these days seems to go bad very quickly. Try dumping the old gas out and getting new gas.
Works for me.
Lyle

(quoted from post at 20:55:44 02/02/20) About 7 months ago I needed to do some work on a tree on my property so I purchased an Echo Timberwolf chainsaw from Home Depot.

The saw worked great and I did all I needed to do. Total run time for the saw was maybe an hour and fifteen minutes total. I cleaned it up and blew it all off with air and emptied the gas tank and started it up to run it out of gas. I then put it away in the case for it that I also purchased with the saw. At the time I also purchased a gallon of Red Armor fuel and a gallon of bar chain oil. So that's the only fuel that was used in it.

I went to use it yesterday, so I poured some more Red Armor fuel into it and some more bar chain oil and tried to start it. I followed the book.

1. push in the compression release
2. pull out the choke
3. flip the switch on

At that point you supposed to attempt to start it. The book says pull the starter rope until you get the first pop. Then push in the choke and the comp. release again and it should start on the first or second pull.

My problem is no matter how I tried to start it, I could not even get a single pop out of it. It's like the thing is just dead. I wore myself out trying to start it, even with some pauses like a half hour to let it just sit. Then I called my nephew and he wore himself out also with not even a pop out of it.

I pulled the plug and it looked new and was a little wet. The air filter is clean with not even a speck of dirt on it.

I went back to Home Depot and they would not even deal with it since I've had it longer than 90 days. This saw has maybe an hour and a half run time on it and looks like it just came out of the box. Not even a scratch on the body or the blade bar.

Anybody got any suggestions? I did buy a new spark plug while I was in town and will give that a try after lunch.
 

Yeah, I was thinking about that also. I did buy a gallon of the Red Amour pre mixed fuel that is marketed by Echo. But I guess I should have picked up a new gallon can when in town today. Maybe I'll go back to town tomorrow and get a new can before I try anything else with the saw. Thank you.
 
(quoted from post at 21:14:11 02/02/20)
Yeah, I was thinking about that also. I did buy a gallon of the Red Amour pre mixed fuel that is marketed by Echo. But I guess I should have picked up a new gallon can when in town today. Maybe I'll go back to town tomorrow and get a new can before I try anything else with the saw. Thank you.

I did not see that you verified that you have spark!
 
(quoted from post at 20:28:56 02/02/20)
(quoted from post at 21:14:11 02/02/20)
Yeah, I was thinking about that also. I did buy a gallon of the Red Amour pre mixed fuel that is marketed by Echo. But I guess I should have picked up a new gallon can when in town today. Maybe I'll go back to town tomorrow and get a new can before I try anything else with the saw. Thank you.

I did not see that you verified that you have spark!

Yes, I used a spark tester on it and it does have spark. I just got back from town where I got a new gallon of Red Armour fuel. I dumped the old fuel out of the saw and I'm letting it sit in the sun for a couple hours so at least it's a bit warm before I try it.
 
Caryc, you might think I'm pulling your leg here, but I think you have spoiled your chain saw. I use regular pump gas treated with Sta-Bil and leave it in the tank. I have two saws, a model 55 Huskvarna and a little 14 inch Poulan. They can sit for months and the Husky will get that initial bark within 4 or 5 pulls then start right up after setting the choke half way. The Poulan is more difficult, but it will start. That one wants me to hold the go trigger open while pulling. Again, once it barks, I set the choke to half and give it a few more pulls and away it goes.
You live in So. Cal. don't you? This probably doesn't make any difference for you, but the guy that runs the chain saw dealership nearby, (Huskvarna and Echo) told me that winter gas is formulated to start easier in cold weather.
 

Last night, I pulled the plug (new plug) and let it sit blade pointed up in a bucket all night with the plug out to let out any flooded gas.

This morning, I dumped the old gas out of the saw and went to Home Depot and purchased a new can of Red Armour fuel. I went home and set the saw out in the sun for a couple hours to let the sun warm it up. I put the new plug back in it and filled it with new fuel.

I then went through the starting process as stated in the manual.

pressure release in, choke out, switch on, two pulls of the starter rope and it coughed a little. press pressure release in again, no choke, pulled the starter and it started.

So, I guess that actually proves that it did not like that 7 month old fuel.

Thanks guys for all your suggestions :) I'm a happy camper again.
 

good deal, glad to hear it.

i have had a less than stellar romance with 2 cycle stuff from day one. i am NOT a happy camper when i can't get something like that to start.
 
(quoted from post at 14:54:40 02/03/20)
good deal, glad to hear it.

i have had a less than stellar romance with 2 cycle stuff from day one. i am NOT a happy camper when i can't get something like that to start.

From reviews that I've read, the Echo Timberwolf seems to be a very popular saw. I like it again now that I figured out the starting crap.

But it is extremely heavy, so I'm glad at age 73 that I don't have a lot of work to do with it. If I did, I would certainly need a lighter saw. It's weight is listed at 15.7 pounds but after you handle it a while it seems like a lot heavier. I guess I was just used to my smaller McCulloch saw which went to crap on me.
 
Up here in the cold north we have summer gas and winter gas. The difference is RVP. Gasoline needs a higher vapor pressure in winter and due to environmental reasons a lower vapor pressure in Summer. Liquid gasoline does not burn, it must be a vapor. Old timer in town keeps a bucket of old weathered gasoline in his shop. To freak out people he puts out his cigarettes in the bucket. He knows that all the lite ends have weathered off, but I would not reccomend this trick because a hot enough ignition source will vaporize some gasoline and now you have a big problem. To help vaporizing gasoline in a carberator, when the air is cold, light ends with higher RVP are blended into the gasoline. If the gas can is not sealed these light ends weather off, especially in a hot pole barn, and engine starting becomes more difficult. The vented gas tank in my 8N, given enough time will also weather off the light ends and starting may become more difficult. California has a whole different set of rules for blending gasoline. RVP is lower year round in California due to environmental concerns, making gasoline more prone to going bad. I use a stabilizer in all gas cans and keep them sealed! That is the best a person can do!
FYI When starting my 20+ year old Echo chainsaw the only thing I do different then you is lock the throttle trigger wide open, per my OM! Always been a good started!
 
(quoted from post at 16:42:58 02/03/20) Up here in the cold north we have summer gas and winter gas. The difference is RVP. Gasoline needs a higher vapor pressure in winter and due to environmental reasons a lower vapor pressure in Summer. Liquid gasoline does not burn, it must be a vapor. Old timer in town keeps a bucket of old weathered gasoline in his shop. To freak out people he puts out his cigarettes in the bucket. He knows that all the lite ends have weathered off, but I would not reccomend this trick because a hot enough ignition source will vaporize some gasoline and now you have a big problem. To help vaporizing gasoline in a carberator, when the air is cold, light ends with higher RVP are blended into the gasoline. If the gas can is not sealed these light ends weather off, especially in a hot pole barn, and engine starting becomes more difficult. The vented gas tank in my 8N, given enough time will also weather off the light ends and starting may become more difficult. California has a whole different set of rules for blending gasoline. RVP is lower year round in California due to environmental concerns, making gasoline more prone to going bad. I use a stabilizer in all gas cans and keep them sealed! That is the best a person can do!
FYI When starting my 20+ year old Echo chainsaw the only thing I do different then you is lock the throttle trigger wide open, per my OM! Always been a good started!

You might explain what light ends are. Never heard of that.
 
(quoted from post at 17:29:14 02/03/20)
Last night, I pulled the plug (new plug) and let it sit blade pointed up in a bucket all night with the plug out to let out any flooded gas.

This morning, I dumped the old gas out of the saw and went to Home Depot and purchased a new can of Red Armour fuel. I went home and set the saw out in the sun for a couple hours to let the sun warm it up. I put the new plug back in it and filled it with new fuel.

I then went through the starting process as stated in the manual.

pressure release in, choke out, switch on, two pulls of the starter rope and it coughed a little. press pressure release in again, no choke, pulled the starter and it started.

So, I guess that actually proves that it did not like that 7 month old fuel.

Thanks guys for all your suggestions :) I'm a happy camper again.

More likely it was just flooded and once you let it dry out all was good again.

TOH
 
Sorry oil refinery talk. Lite ends = methane, ethane, propane, butane, all are a gas at room temperature. Up here in the winter we blend quite a bit of butane in gasoline to raise RVP. Reid Vapor Pressure. The other three gasses are normally in trace amounts in gasoline.
 
(quoted from post at 16:58:36 02/03/20)
(quoted from post at 17:29:14 02/03/20)
Last night, I pulled the plug (new plug) and let it sit blade pointed up in a bucket all night with the plug out to let out any flooded gas.

This morning, I dumped the old gas out of the saw and went to Home Depot and purchased a new can of Red Armour fuel. I went home and set the saw out in the sun for a couple hours to let the sun warm it up. I put the new plug back in it and filled it with new fuel.

I then went through the starting process as stated in the manual.

pressure release in, choke out, switch on, two pulls of the starter rope and it coughed a little. press pressure release in again, no choke, pulled the starter and it started.

So, I guess that actually proves that it did not like that 7 month old fuel.

Thanks guys for all your suggestions :) I'm a happy camper again.

More likely it was just flooded and once you let it dry out all was good again.

TOH

I'm not so sure of that. When I originally tried to start it by the book, it didn't even give me a single pop.

When I tried it today with the new fuel, it gave me a "brrrr" like the book says it's supposed to do on the second pull with the choke on.

Next pull with the choke off, it started right up.

I went by the book both times. Old gas...nothing. New gas...started right up.
 
(quoted from post at 21:14:02 02/03/20)
(quoted from post at 16:58:36 02/03/20)
(quoted from post at 17:29:14 02/03/20)
Last night, I pulled the plug (new plug) and let it sit blade pointed up in a bucket all night with the plug out to let out any flooded gas.

This morning, I dumped the old gas out of the saw and went to Home Depot and purchased a new can of Red Armour fuel. I went home and set the saw out in the sun for a couple hours to let the sun warm it up. I put the new plug back in it and filled it with new fuel.

I then went through the starting process as stated in the manual.

pressure release in, choke out, switch on, two pulls of the starter rope and it coughed a little. press pressure release in again, no choke, pulled the starter and it started.

So, I guess that actually proves that it did not like that 7 month old fuel.

Thanks guys for all your suggestions :) I'm a happy camper again.

More likely it was just flooded and once you let it dry out all was good again.

TOH

I'm not so sure of that. When I originally tried to start it by the book, it didn't even give me a single pop.

When I tried it today with the new fuel, it gave me a "brrrr" like the book says it's supposed to do on the second pull with the choke on.

Next pull with the choke off, it started right up.

I went by the book both times. Old gas...nothing. New gas...started right up.
thought the purpose of the Red Armor fuel was it didn't go bad for the price of that stuff it should last forever.
 
(quoted from post at 18:38:13 02/03/20) I thought the purpose of the Red Armor fuel was it didn't go bad for the price of that stuff it should last forever.

that plus two dollars might buy you a cup of coffee. somewhere.

i guess i've been lucky. i never add anything to my gas, and i leave it in the various machines over months or years, yet they start easily when i finally get around to needing them.

however, i rarely leave any gas (mixed) in my chainsaw; i stop using it each time when it runs out. thus, the saw gets somewhat fresh gas each time i want to run it. not so for the lawnmower, 8n, snowblower, cj-5, dump truck, or 4runners. they get to start using the gas that has been in their tanks since last use.
 
I thought the purpose of the Red Armor fuel was it didn't go bad for the price of that stuff it should last forever.

Yeah, it was $24 bucks for a gallon. I don't know about it supposedly never going bad but it is ethanol free. If I did a lot of work with that saw, I think I'd buy regular gas and mix it myself.
 
(quoted from post at 23:35:07 02/03/20)
I thought the purpose of the Red Armor fuel was it didn't go bad for the price of that stuff it should last forever.

Yeah, it was $24 bucks for a gallon. I don't know about it supposedly never going bad but it is ethanol free. If I did a lot of work with that saw, I think I'd buy regular gas and mix it myself.

https://www.pure-gas.org/ - list of stations selling E0 :)
 
(quoted from post at 20:45:17 02/03/20)
(quoted from post at 23:35:07 02/03/20)
I thought the purpose of the Red Armor fuel was it didn't go bad for the price of that stuff it should last forever.

Yeah, it was $24 bucks for a gallon. I don't know about it supposedly never going bad but it is ethanol free. If I did a lot of work with that saw, I think I'd buy regular gas and mix it myself.

https://www.pure-gas.org/ - list of stations selling E0 :)

Nearest place to me is 30 miles away.
 
(quoted from post at 23:55:58 02/03/20)
(quoted from post at 20:45:17 02/03/20)
(quoted from post at 23:35:07 02/03/20)
I thought the purpose of the Red Armor fuel was it didn't go bad for the price of that stuff it should last forever.

Yeah, it was $24 bucks for a gallon. I don't know about it supposedly never going bad but it is ethanol free. If I did a lot of work with that saw, I think I'd buy regular gas and mix it myself.

https://www.pure-gas.org/ - list of stations selling E0 :)

Nearest place to me is 30 miles away.

ouch. about 12 miles for me.
 
(quoted from post at 21:14:02 02/03/20)
(quoted from post at 16:58:36 02/03/20)
(quoted from post at 17:29:14 02/03/20)
Last night, I pulled the plug (new plug) and let it sit blade pointed up in a bucket all night with the plug out to let out any flooded gas.

This morning, I dumped the old gas out of the saw and went to Home Depot and purchased a new can of Red Armour fuel. I went home and set the saw out in the sun for a couple hours to let the sun warm it up. I put the new plug back in it and filled it with new fuel.

I then went through the starting process as stated in the manual.

pressure release in, choke out, switch on, two pulls of the starter rope and it coughed a little. press pressure release in again, no choke, pulled the starter and it started.

So, I guess that actually proves that it did not like that 7 month old fuel.

Thanks guys for all your suggestions :) I'm a happy camper again.

More likely it was just flooded and once you let it dry out all was good again.

TOH

I'm not so sure of that. When I originally tried to start it by the book, it didn't even give me a single pop.

When I tried it today with the new fuel, it gave me a "brrrr" like the book says it's supposed to do on the second pull with the choke on.

Next pull with the choke off, it started right up.

I went by the book both times. Old gas...nothing. New gas...started right up.

I have had that same scenario multiple times with my big saw. Won't hit a lick but after I dry it out like you did it fires right up on the same tank of fuel. Yesterday it started EZ peasy right by the book on the exact same tank of fuel that gave me fits three days earlier. In my case it is clearly not the fuel. Since you dumped the old fuel without a retry after the dry out period we will never know if that was a factor in your case.

TOH
 
I have had that same scenario multiple times with my big saw. Won't hit a lick but after I dry it out like you did it fires right up on the same tank of fuel. Yesterday it started EZ peasy right by the book on the exact same tank of fuel that gave me fits three days earlier. In my case it is clearly not the fuel. Since you dumped the old fuel without a retry after the dry out period we will never know if that was a factor in your case.

TOH

I've still got that gallon can of the old fuel. Maybe when I'm done with what I need to do with the saw, I'll empty the tank and pour in that old fuel again and we'll see what happens.

I can always dry it out again. I'm a little curious myself. :wink:
 
(quoted from post at 16:49:46 02/04/20) Sounds like you have the switch in the off position.

OMG...you mean there is an on/off switch on this thing ?????????

Reminds me of the old Polish chain saw joke.
 
(quoted from post at 18:06:27 02/04/20)
(quoted from post at 16:49:46 02/04/20) Sounds like you have the switch in the off position.

OMG...you mean there is an on/off switch on this thing ?????????

Reminds me of the old Polish chain saw joke.

or the french-canadian. ohhh, wut dat noise?
 
(quoted from post at 19:01:56 02/04/20)
(quoted from post at 18:06:27 02/04/20)
(quoted from post at 16:49:46 02/04/20) Sounds like you have the switch in the off position.

OMG...you mean there is an on/off switch on this thing ?????????

Reminds me of the old Polish chain saw joke.

or the french-canadian. ohhh, wut dat noise?

Yep, that's the one. :mrgreen:
 
(quoted from post at 14:29:14 02/03/20)
Last night, I pulled the plug (new plug) and let it sit blade pointed up in a bucket all night with the plug out to let out any flooded gas.



I was on the verge of getting a timberwolf . . .
wanted a Husqvarna Rancher
but wound up with a Stihl 028 AV SUPER

It hadn't been used for 8 years and wouldn't start, After a few preliminary tests, the Echo dealer and I (who I play pool with) sprayed ether while I pulled the cord. After a few false starts we freed up the sticky fuel valve and away she ran. I've cut two cords with it so far without a whimper.

I like how you don't have to so quick to close the choke after it starts which is nice. Nice air filter setup, nice slotted filler caps.
tons of compression and 6 HP. Starts every time on 4 pulls full choke, no throttle.

I was always a Husqvarna guy till now.

By the way . . . chain saws don't have blades.
Pet peeve of mine . . . calling the bar a blade. :D
 
(quoted from post at 05:43:53 02/05/20)
(quoted from post at 14:29:14 02/03/20)
Last night, I pulled the plug (new plug) and let it sit blade pointed up in a bucket all night with the plug out to let out any flooded gas.



I was on the verge of getting a timberwolf . . .
wanted a Husqvarna Rancher
but wound up with a Stihl 028 AV SUPER

It hadn't been used for 8 years and wouldn't start, After a few preliminary tests, the Echo dealer and I (who I play pool with) sprayed ether while I pulled the cord. After a few false starts we freed up the sticky fuel valve and away she ran. I've cut two cords with it so far without a whimper.

I like how you don't have to so quick to close the choke after it starts which is nice. Nice air filter setup, nice slotted filler caps.
tons of compression and 6 HP. Starts every time on 4 pulls full choke, no throttle.

I was always a Husqvarna guy till now.

By the way . . . chain saws don't have blades.
Pet peeve of mine . . . calling the bar a blade. :D

Who told you that your 028 Super is a 6HP saw?

The 028 is a 47cc saw and Stihl claimed 2.8HP for it. The Super variant bumped the displacement to 51.5cc and Stihl never published a HP number for it. Commonly quoted HP on the arborist forums is 3.5.

For comparison my Husky 372xp is a 71cc/5.5HP saw in the same class as a 72cc/6HP Stihl MS462.

Both are much bigger saws than the 028 Super which is in the same class as my Husky 455 Rancher (55cc/3.5HP) or a Stihl MS 271 Farm Boss (50cc/3.5HP).

TOH
 

when i looked into buying a saw, i looked at stihl, echo and husky. i couldn't justify the price difference for the echo or husky, so i ended up with an MS290 farm boss. in retrospect, i'm glad i did. if i'd have paid twice as much money for a saw that's much more finicky about starting, i would not be happy. i've got a friend with a 3 or so year old husky who has similar starting issues as described in this thread.

and someone mentioned homelite. the husky i just referred to was a replacement for a homelite with a 24" bar. all i can figure is that the brand name means "these saws are as light as your home." that saw should have been named homeheavy.
 
(quoted from post at 09:45:29 02/05/20)
when i looked into buying a saw, i looked at stihl, echo and husky. i couldn't justify the price difference for the echo or husky, so i ended up with an MS290 farm boss. in retrospect, i'm glad i did. if i'd have paid twice as much money for a saw that's much more finicky about starting, i would not be happy. i've got a friend with a 3 or so year old husky who has similar starting issues as described in this thread.

and someone mentioned homelite. the husky i just referred to was a replacement for a homelite with a 24" bar. all i can figure is that the brand name means "these saws are as light as your home." that saw should have been named homeheavy.

Pricing in your area must be vastly different than mine. When I went shopping for a bigger saw I priced the Husky 372 and Stihl ms462. Two different Stihl dealers quoted me a biscuit over $1000 for the saw with no bar or chain. The Husky with 24" bar and chain was $899 online. No tax or shipping.

Also let me correct a misperception. None of my Huskys are hard starting saws if you follow the procedure. My last problem cold starting the 372 was caused by the feeble minded operator forgetting to turn the switch on which quickly flooded it badly :oops: It normally cold starts fine with a few pulls and when warm drop starts easily with a single pull.

TOH
 
(quoted from post at 10:36:16 02/05/20)
(quoted from post at 09:45:29 02/05/20)
when i looked into buying a saw, i looked at stihl, echo and husky. i couldn't justify the price difference for the echo or husky, so i ended up with an MS290 farm boss. in retrospect, i'm glad i did. if i'd have paid twice as much money for a saw that's much more finicky about starting, i would not be happy. i've got a friend with a 3 or so year old husky who has similar starting issues as described in this thread.

and someone mentioned homelite. the husky i just referred to was a replacement for a homelite with a 24" bar. all i can figure is that the brand name means "these saws are as light as your home." that saw should have been named homeheavy.

Pricing in your area must be vastly different than mine. When I went shopping for a bigger saw I priced the Husky 372 and Stihl ms462. Two different Stihl dealers quoted me a biscuit over $1000 for the saw with no bar or chain. The Husky with 24" bar and chain was $899 online. No tax or shipping.

Also let me correct a misperception. None of my Huskys are hard starting saws if you follow the procedure. My last problem cold starting the 372 was caused by the feeble minded operator forgetting to turn the switch on which quickly flooded it badly :oops: It normally cold starts fine with a few pulls and when warm drop starts easily with a single pull.

TOH

when u speak of pricing differences from area to area, bear in mind that i bought my saw at least 15 years ago. at that time, the comparably sized powerhead on an echo was a bit underr 600 dollars. i paid 310 or 320 for the stihl. i don't remember the price on the husky, but it was closer to the echo price, or i'd have bought it.

no misperception - i've seen the starting issues described here with his husky, before he learned how to do it exactly the book. i never had those issues with my stihl.
 
(quoted from post at 11:05:55 02/05/20)
(quoted from post at 10:36:16 02/05/20)
(quoted from post at 09:45:29 02/05/20)
when i looked into buying a saw, i looked at stihl, echo and husky. i couldn't justify the price difference for the echo or husky, so i ended up with an MS290 farm boss. in retrospect, i'm glad i did. if i'd have paid twice as much money for a saw that's much more finicky about starting, i would not be happy. i've got a friend with a 3 or so year old husky who has similar starting issues as described in this thread.

and someone mentioned homelite. the husky i just referred to was a replacement for a homelite with a 24" bar. all i can figure is that the brand name means "these saws are as light as your home." that saw should have been named homeheavy.

Pricing in your area must be vastly different than mine. When I went shopping for a bigger saw I priced the Husky 372 and Stihl ms462. Two different Stihl dealers quoted me a biscuit over $1000 for the saw with no bar or chain. The Husky with 24" bar and chain was $899 online. No tax or shipping.

Also let me correct a misperception. None of my Huskys are hard starting saws if you follow the procedure. My last problem cold starting the 372 was caused by the feeble minded operator forgetting to turn the switch on which quickly flooded it badly :oops: It normally cold starts fine with a few pulls and when warm drop starts easily with a single pull.

TOH

when u speak of pricing differences from area to area, bear in mind that i bought my saw at least 15 years ago. at that time, the comparably sized powerhead on an echo was a bit underr 600 dollars. i paid 310 or 320 for the stihl. i don't remember the price on the husky, but it was closer to the echo price, or i'd have bought it.

no misperception - i've seen the starting issues described here with his husky, before he learned how to do it exactly the book. i never had those issues with my stihl.

In that time frame I have purchased 3 saws - a small Echo, a Husky 455, and a the 372xp. In all three cases I wanted and priced a comparable Sthil but the cost was significantly more.

I'll also add the Echo is used for limbing and a bit of a disappointment power wise but I am using a pretty aggressive full complement chain and max bar on it so I probably expected too much. It is the easiest starting saw I have ever owned. I own a lot of other Echo equipment and they have all performed outstandingly.

TOH
 

In defense of Echo please remember that this is only the second time that I used the saw. Once a person gets used to a certain saw, I'm sure they'll figure out the starting procedure for it.

Once I put the new fuel in it, it started right up using the starting procedure in the instruction book.

I do like the compression release on it.
 
Who told you that your 028 Super is a 6HP saw?

The 028 is a 47cc saw and Stihl claimed 2.8HP for it. The Super variant bumped the displacement to 51.5cc and Stihl never published a HP number for it. Commonly quoted HP on the arborist forums is 3.5.

TOH,

Sorry about that!
It seems like I let myself be misled once again.
It was typo of sorts because the #6 (from 3.6) stuck in my mind from this ad and other specs I was digging up and saved while contemplating.

The Stihl 028 Super is a professional grade chainsaw, next in line after the infamous 026 PRO. It has 3.6 HP 20 bar and sharp chain, just serviced, runs perfectly, ready to go to work. 395.00 cash

Husqvarna 455 Rancher
The 455 Rancher is an ideal saw for landowners and part-time users who require ... Cylinder displacement. 55.5 . Power output. 3.5 hp. Power output. 2.6 kW.

Husqvarna 460 Rancher
https://www.husqvarna.com/us/products/chainsaws/460-rancher/966048304/
An ideal saw for landowners and part-time users who ... 3.62 hp. Maximum power speed. 9000 rpm. Fuel tank volume. 0.9 US pint.
________________________

I bought the saw, with new chain for $50.
 
(quoted from post at 16:05:03 02/05/20) Who told you that your 028 Super is a 6HP saw?

The 028 is a 47cc saw and Stihl claimed 2.8HP for it. The Super variant bumped the displacement to 51.5cc and Stihl never published a HP number for it. Commonly quoted HP on the arborist forums is 3.5.

TOH,

Sorry about that!
It seems like I let myself be misled once again.
It was typo of sorts because the #6 (from 3.6) stuck in my mind from this ad and other specs I was digging up and saved while contemplating.

The Stihl 028 Super is a professional grade chainsaw, next in line after the infamous 026 PRO. It has 3.6 HP 20 bar and sharp chain, just serviced, runs perfectly, ready to go to work. 395.00 cash

Husqvarna 455 Rancher
The 455 Rancher is an ideal saw for landowners and part-time users who require ... Cylinder displacement. 55.5 . Power output. 3.5 hp. Power output. 2.6 kW.

Husqvarna 460 Rancher
https://www.husqvarna.com/us/products/chainsaws/460-rancher/966048304/
An ideal saw for landowners and part-time users who ... 3.62 hp. Maximum power speed. 9000 rpm. Fuel tank volume. 0.9 US pint.
________________________

I bought the saw, with new chain for $50.

Production of the 028 ended in 1993 or 1994 so they are over 25 years old. They are readily available used - most are getting pretty tired so if you got a fresh one for $50 congratulations. The 028 was replaced in the lineup by the 026. Introduced in 1993, it had the same power but was lighter. You will find a good reliable history with specifications for just about every chainsaw ever made on acresinternet.com.

The question of what is or is not a professional grade saw is debated at great length on the arborist sites. You might be surprised by the variety of opinions offered by true professionals. The last 6 man "professional arborist" crew I had here had a couple of those Husky "ranch/farm" saws in their arsenal and wielded them right alongside the Stihls. The owner spoke highly of his bigger 372xp which is what got me started down that road.

TOH
 

It got down to 28 degrees last night with my Echo sitting out in my storage shed. I got it out about ten o'clock this morning and tried to start it using the instructions in the book. It started on the fourth pull. :wink:

I have a question about the starting procedure. It says to apply the chain break and immediately release it upon starting. When I start this thing I put it down on the bottom step in front of my place and place my foot in the handle to steady it. I don't do the drop and pull thing with it primarily because it's too heavy for that.

So do I really need to apply that chain brake with the chainsaw firmly braced for starting? I really don't see anything unsafe about that.
 

well, maybe i got lucky with anomalous pricing. in any case, i'm very happy with my stihl. i don't do much limbing with it, its primary use is dropping and bucking elm, silver maple, and, before they all died, ash :(
 
(quoted from post at 19:03:42 02/05/20)
It got down to 28 degrees last night with my Echo sitting out in my storage shed. I got it out about ten o'clock this morning and tried to start it using the instructions in the book. It started on the fourth pull. :wink:

I have a question about the starting procedure. It says to apply the chain break and immediately release it upon starting. When I start this thing I put it down on the bottom step in front of my place and place my foot in the handle to steady it. I don't do the drop and pull thing with it primarily because it's too heavy for that.

So do I really need to apply that chain brake with the chainsaw firmly braced for starting? I really don't see anything unsafe about that.

OSHA and the OEMs think the chain brake is good practice but I skip it. I cold start mine just like you - too hard to pull with a drop start when cold. It will spin the chain up immediately because the trigger is locked full open so I make sure it is firmly clamped down with a boot. OSHA and OEMs dont like drop starting either.....

TOH
 
(quoted from post at 17:05:56 02/05/20)
(quoted from post at 19:03:42 02/05/20)
It got down to 28 degrees last night with my Echo sitting out in my storage shed. I got it out about ten o'clock this morning and tried to start it using the instructions in the book. It started on the fourth pull. :wink:

I have a question about the starting procedure. It says to apply the chain break and immediately release it upon starting. When I start this thing I put it down on the bottom step in front of my place and place my foot in the handle to steady it. I don't do the drop and pull thing with it primarily because it's too heavy for that.

So do I really need to apply that chain brake with the chainsaw firmly braced for starting? I really don't see anything unsafe about that.

OSHA and the OEMs think the chain brake is good practice but I skip it. I cold start mine just like you - too hard to pull with a drop start when cold. It will spin the chain up immediately because the trigger is locked full open so I make sure it is firmly clamped down with a boot. OSHA and OEMs dont like drop starting either.....

TOH

Thanks TOH those were exactly my thoughts about it.
 
TOH,

You wrote:

[color=blue:05837f28b8]Production of the 028 ended in 1993 or 1994 so they are over 25 years old. They are readily available used - most are getting pretty tired so if you got a fresh one for $50 congratulations. The 028 was replaced in the lineup by the 026. Introduced in 1993, it had the same power but was lighter. You will find a good reliable history with specifications for just about every chainsaw ever made on acresinternet.com.
[/color:05837f28b8]
Thanks for the link.
An old friend, now deceased owned this Stihl. He was a dairy farmer in Ontario and then moved out here. He had a hip replacement because a cow had stepped on him in the milking parlor. I don't think that the saw worked very hard. I have to remember to tightly grip the cord handle to keep that good compression from yanking it out of my fingers.

[color=darkblue:05837f28b8]The question of what is or is not a professional grade saw is debated at great length on the arborist sites. You might be surprised by the variety of opinions offered by true professionals. The last 6 man "professional arborist" crew I had here had a couple of those Husky "ranch/farm" saws in their arsenal and wielded them right alongside the Stihls. The owner spoke highly of his bigger 372xp which is what got me started down that road.[/color:05837f28b8]

My professional friend here "The Tree Guy" has about 6 saws in his chromed checker plate truck box. Equal mix of Husqvarna and Stihl.

As far as starting with the brake on or not, if the chain is adjusted correctly at least it won't rotate at idle which helps.

T
 
I switched over to Stihl years ago and have been very happy with them. Some of those other brands do make nice gear shifter knobs.

<a href="https://imgur.com/Hd66vbT">
Hd66vbTm.jpg" title="source: imgur.com"
</a>
 

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