Original or Moded

Just wondering how everyone feels about updated systems verses keeping it original. I would never put down anything original, after all, it has worked for ever, but just how important is it to you to keep it stock and why?
 
I think it's one of those where do you
quit deals.
Are you going to find original Ford
pistons, sleeves and bearings when you
rebuild the engine?
Not upgrade to the jubilee style lift
piston?
Sleeve your lift cylinder if the bore is
bad to keep it original or buy an after
market one?
Use Ford points instead of aftermarket?
Distributor caps and wires?
Ford brushes in your generator and
starter? Old style bendix?
You could buy Every part at the dealer to
repair them then and most parts had the
Ford logo on it somewhere and/or came in
Ford boxes.
Ford didn't put fancy paint jobs on their
tractors. Paint was to prevent rust and
ID the brand and model so they rolled off
the line with thin spots in some areas
and runs in others. Will you do a crummy
paint job?
Will your casting codes all match?
Radiator hoses? Gas tank, shut off valve?
caps? Steering wheels? Sector gears?
Clutch parts? Correct bolts on it
everywhere?
I really don't think it's possible to
have an "original" tractor.
I say if you want a really nice original
LOOKING tractor for shows, go for it.
If you have a worker that you want some
modern advancements on go for that.
And if you found a very original barn
find tractor and just kept it "as found"
that would be cool too.
 
(quoted from post at 14:11:45 01/31/20) Just wondering how everyone feels about updated systems verses keeping it original. I would never put down anything original, after all, it has worked for ever, but just how important is it to you to keep it stock and why?

I wouldn't sacrifice comfort for show any more than I'd go back to the original pan seat of the Jubilee. But I hang onto and restore anything the integrity, durability and dependability of which is a hard act to follow . . . like marvel carbs and my old top link.

As far as the pride goes, I get that satisfaction from passers by slowing down to look or to tell me how great they think my tractor looks. Most admirers don't even know what constitutes "original" and often ask. I answer, "this is original; this isn't; this is." :D
mvphoto48598.jpg
 
I don't know how far you would have to go to find a totally original 8N. Just looking quickly mine looks original, but I'm not going to give up the hanging drawbar, 1 3/8" PTO, the over run starter or some of the improved electrical items to make it truly original.

There was a dealer here several years ago that would restore a different small Ford every year and use all new bolts to put them together. They were more original and nicer than when they rolled out the factory door. Extra original, 110%.
 
I grew up with a dad that kept everything running with duct tape and bailing wire. He would never buy replacement parts. Drove me nuts. With that said I have no problem buying new replacement parts because my priority is having a good reliable machine. But, it is enjoyable and therapeutic to rebuild a device, if parts are available, and get it working as it was designed to operate. Rebuilding a hydraulic pump, carburetor, or governor with new parts is much more satisfying then replacing with a whole new device!
 
In today?s ?throw-away? world/mentality, things are made so it is cheaper to buy new than the cost of repair. When we were teenagers, my buddy and I used to chuckle about how cars were getting to be ?disposable?. Everything is made of plastic nowadays and that is a personal concern with me. Drop it once and it?s trashed, i.e. CD?s, DVD?s, laptops, computers, and more. If you?re talking vintage cars, trucks, tractors, and farm equipment, rebuilding the OEM parts are always my first priority. New, aftermarket components are known to fail due to lack of quality and cheap manufacturing sources. RESTORATION is something to be proud of but you are not going to have it ALL OEM unless you get in the DeLorean and go back to the ?50?s. Most of the parts on our Fords were supplied by outside vendors, licensed under Ford to carry the logo and part number. Points had the FORD stamped logo but were supplied by Blue Streak. The new quality points are still made, Standard Ignition p/n FD-6769X, but many cheap clones are too and those usually are junk out of the box. Steel cylinder sleeves are not made anymore. I rebuild my OEM TSX Carbs, distributors, generators, starters, water pumps, and will avoid the Cheena made junk as much as possible. Since most everything is made in Cheena today, you are not going to have an original machine, however some exist. I know of a few guys with early 9N?s that have never been changed out to modern stuff. Refurbishing is not the same as restoring. Even if you are not running an original looking machine, I strive to keep the components OEM for reasons already stated.

Tim Daley(MI)
 
(LONG) For my 9n, I talked to the old gentleman that owns the repair shop, and he let me look around in his "used parts bin" and I could buy whatever I picked out. I got a "more correct" generator, lots of correct bolts for various parts, replaced a front wheel spindle/king pin assembly, on and on.... I needed to buy a new radiator made in Ireland, but it is not correct for my 9n. I disguised the pressure cap by putting my original streamlined cap cover onto the pressure cap using pop rivets. It looks ok from 10 feet away. There is always something that is almost correct. I put on brand new tires 20 years ago, but the lettering on them was modern, not authentic for a 1941 tractor. My headlights look ok, but they are actually Ferguson parts. My metal footboards are either third-party accessories or else Ferguson. Again, it is a 10 feet away looker. Just me.

Dennis M. in W. Tenn.
 
(quoted from post at 15:41:53 01/31/20) The only reason to keep it original is if it is strictly a show tractor.

No.

One other really good reason to keep it original is to maintain parts compatibility/reliability and to reduce surprises. While it's just like all the others, you can swap parts, make adjustments, etc and expect the same results as on other tractors. As soon as you go aftermarket, you add a little uncertainty if something isn't working right.
 

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