Spark plug wires or new graphite type

chuckinnc

Member
I need some wires for my old 68 cyl 4500 Loader, I has the old type coil and solid wires. All the wires I have
found locally are the graphite type. There are no Ford/New Holland dealers around here anymore so does anyone know if these new wires will work on older systems
 

If you want to keep it "as original", any autoparts store with a decent counterman should be able to find you a universal "solid core" wire set to order and have overnight, or in a day or two.

This very site has them, as well.

https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/...md=4500&cat=Electrical System&r=mcats

On the other hand, since it is 12 Volt machine, carbon core wires should work just fine.

An even better choice would be "spiral wound magnetic core suppression wires".

They offer the best of both worlds... electrical noise suppression, and low resistance. More $$$, though.

One last note, if someone has previously installed a Pertronix-type" electronic ignition module "suppression" wires ARE required, and the magnetic core wires are a more durable and better choice than the carbon core.
 
(quoted from post at 09:26:05 01/30/20) I need some wires for my old 68 cyl 4500 Loader, I has the old type coil and solid wires. All the wires I have
found locally are the graphite type. There are no Ford/New Holland dealers around here anymore so does anyone know if these new wires will work on older systems

Napa sells everything you need. They will sell you solid wire core wire by the foot and all the metal ends and rubber boots you need to make your own and always have some spare wire standing by in case you need it.
 

Every tractor I have owned in time got a set of used graphite wires 6 are 12V front are side mount distributor I never knew are seen any difference in how that cranked are ran...

I never understood why 6V lubbers were so skeered of'em... Will maybe I do that are skeered of everything : )

In your case if its a 3 cly I would be more considered of how well the plug wire boot fit to the spark plug well...
 
Like Cary suggested, In 2014 I bought this yellow wire by the foot and soldered the ends on. I pulled the small copper cable strands (not a solid wire) up through the hole and soldered.

On the cap end I had to drill my own holes in the angled ends.

The operation was a success and the Jubilee never died. :D
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Solid wire core IS getting difficult to find, by the foot. I live in SW Michigan. Last summer, I was looking for some. Called all the auto places in Holland & many in Grand Rapids with no success. Found a few places that would sell me a 100' coil at nearly $2/foot. Had to make a trip north that weekend, so started calling auto places along the way. Found some in a small town auto/hardware store, at a very good price.

I initally bought a universal spark plug wire set from Tractor Supply. Wiring a F-12, where the mag is on one side, and plugs on the other, the wires all were too short.

Happy hunting !
 
(quoted from post at 12:00:37 01/31/20) Solid wire core IS getting difficult to find, by the foot. I live in SW Michigan. Last summer, I was looking for some. Called all the auto places in Holland & many in Grand Rapids with no success. Found a few places that would sell me a 100' coil at nearly $2/foot. Had to make a trip north that weekend, so started calling auto places along the way. Found some in a small town auto/hardware store, at a very good price.

I initally bought a universal spark plug wire set from Tractor Supply. Wiring a F-12, where the mag is on one side, and plugs on the other, the wires all were too short.

Happy hunting !

Readily available by the foot online from a myriad of suppliers- 7mm Copper Core Spark Plug Wire

TOH
 
(quoted from post at 09:55:10 01/30/20)
An even better choice would be "spiral wound magnetic core suppression wires".

They offer the best of both worlds... electrical noise suppression, and low resistance. More $$$, though.

Bob,

That's very interesting about that low resistance because I put a new set of those grey suppression wires (that I had been given) on my 235 Chev two summers ago and they've been working fine even though most of them are too long.

I'm pretty much electrically ignorant . . . but could zip-tying droopy plug wires together in a bundle affect the performance of the wires or anything?

I'll have to check the writing on the wires again
for spiral wound and magnetic core . . .
I think I threw the package away but maybe not.

T
 
Dumb question I guess
given that the tractor plug wires are run together in a protective tube. :D
 
(quoted from post at 22:40:11 02/01/20) Dumb question I guess
given that the tractor plug wires are run together in a protective tube. :D

For what it's worth, as a teenager, I remember grabbing hold of a plug wire and getting the crap shocked out of me. I asked my auto shop teacher about it and he said sometimes the electric charge can also run along the outside of the wire.
 
(quoted from post at 00:37:41 02/02/20)
(quoted from post at 09:55:10 01/30/20)
An even better choice would be "spiral wound magnetic core suppression wires".

They offer the best of both worlds... electrical noise suppression, and low resistance. More $$$, though.

Bob,

That's very interesting about that low resistance because I put a new set of those grey suppression wires (that I had been given) on my 235 Chev two summers ago and they've been working fine even though most of them are too long.

I'm pretty much electrically ignorant . . . but could zip-tying droopy plug wires together in a bundle affect the performance of the wires or anything?

I'll have to check the writing on the wires again
for spiral wound and magnetic core . . .
I think I threw the package away but maybe not.

T

ONE example of wires in adjacent firing order having a long, close, parallel run crossfiring...

https://teamtalk.mastercraft.com//showthread.php?t=55442

LOTS of other info on the 'net about such issues.

An 'ol "low energy ignition" "N" probably doesn't have enough spark current to cause that, but with updated ignition, who knows what's possible!
 
Thanks Bob!

I forgot to mention a key part.
My '51 Chev van with those wires is totally "original" at least as far as 6-Volt goes I left all my Chev trucks 6 volt.

My Jubilee came with a 12 conversion otherwise I probably would have left it 6 volt as well. :)

T
 

Cary,

AH!

That would seem to explain the need for dielectric grease on the rubber boot interiors as per the link Bob supplied.
 
(quoted from post at 02:49:33 02/02/20)
Cary,

AH!

That would seem to explain the need for dielectric grease on the rubber boot interiors as per the link Bob supplied.

I don't really see how that would help. Dielectric grease is just a sealant that keeps moisture out of the connection. It doesn't conduct electricity. You don't actually put it on two mating surfaces that conduct electricity.
 
(quoted from post at 13:01:18 02/02/20)
(quoted from post at 02:49:33 02/02/20)
Cary,

AH!

That would seem to explain the need for dielectric grease on the rubber boot interiors as per the link Bob supplied.

I don't really see how that would help. Dielectric grease is just a sealant that keeps moisture out of the connection.[b:d3ac38e6dd] It doesn't conduct electricity.[/b:d3ac38e6dd] You don't actually put it on two mating surfaces that conduct electricity.

are u sure it doesn't help prevent that current from working its way to the outside of the wire (altho there should be a better term for something that has no wire in it) and shocking u?
 
(quoted from post at 13:42:52 02/02/20)
(quoted from post at 13:01:18 02/02/20)
(quoted from post at 02:49:33 02/02/20)
Cary,

AH!

That would seem to explain the need for dielectric grease on the rubber boot interiors as per the link Bob supplied.

I don't really see how that would help. Dielectric grease is just a sealant that keeps moisture out of the connection.[b:2efd958572] It doesn't conduct electricity.[/b:2efd958572] You don't actually put it on two mating surfaces that conduct electricity.

are u sure it doesn't help prevent that current from working its way to the outside of the wire (altho there should be a better term for something that has no wire in it) and shocking u?

It think its sole purpose is sealing out moisture and helps prevent the boot sticking to the plug. Shocks are the result of dielectric breakdown/cracks in the insulation.

TOH
 

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