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Battery dying..

M

MitchMac2n

New User
My father in law offered a 47 ford 2n to me if I could get it going. Have it running good for about a month, installed front lights on it and whenever I run at night with the lights on the battery dies. As far as I know it is converted to 12. Which leads me to my second question, how to remove fan/alternator belt? The alternator is maxed out and the belt is still a bit loose.
 
Welcome to the forum!
To remove the belt, just loosen the alternator, slide it in on the
adjuster and work the belt off the pulleys and over the fan.
Put it on in reverse.
Note here, the pulleys on the water pump and crank take a 5/8
width belt. Your alternator should also have a pulley for a 5/8 belt.
If it doesn't, and someone has used a 1/2 belt, you run the chance
of it slipping which could cause your problem. It could also cause
the water pump not to spin correctly and cause overheating.
 
Thank you! Im happy to have found a spot for all my questions. My alternator actually has a 1/2 pulley, so replacing the pulley with a 5/8 and larger one may be the answer. Getting the belt of was just very difficult to get past what looks like the water pump clutch in the middle of the lower pulley, not much room, just figured there may be an easier way but ill just put some elbow grease into er!
 
I think you're talking about the crankshaft pulley bolt with cogs for
the hand crank. Try twisting the belt sideways to get it by there.
It's usually not as thick/tall as it is wide.
 
Bad wiring. If it runs fine without lights then dies when turned on that should be a huge clue. "...installed front lights on it..." -You need to be sure the alternator has belt tension AND a fully tested battery first. By 'maxed out" it sounds like you don't have the correct tension device, belt pulley, and/or belt size. Don't just charge it. If it won't sustain a full charge under load it is junk and could be adding to your problem. Also, 12V battery cables are needed as well -like on your car and truck. Don't assume if you have a 12V battery it is wired correctly. Did you do it? Is the cutout removed from the circuit? Is the OEM Ballast Resistor in the circuit? Is the coil 6V or 12V? Much more info rq'd.

FORD N-TRACTOR 12V WIRING:
TBC19a5h.jpg
*PICTOGRAM courtesy of JMOR


Tim Daley(MI)
 

I sure would like to have a look at one of those I am not sure its the correct pulley... It looks more like a AFD5035 pulley for a 3/4" belt : ( and that;s the part number they list fer it..

I would not buy it unless it was part #98NAA5825 that's the only part number I have found that works as it should with a 5/8" belt...
 

[i:62fa7ef784]"Also, 12V battery cables are needed as well -like on your car and truck."[/i:62fa7ef784]

why? the heavier 6 volt cables work fine for 12 volts. it's when u have smaller gauge 12 volt cables and switch to 6 volts that u need to replace the cables - not when u go from 6 to 12 volts.
 
Hobo, it's been quite a while since I ordered my pulley and I don't
know if the part number was the same back then as it is now.
The one I received fit and worked correctly though.
 
(quoted from post at 09:52:49 01/17/20)
[i:26037deab5]"Also, 12V battery cables are needed as well -like on your car and truck."[/i:26037deab5]

why? the heavier 6 volt cables work fine for 12 volts. it's when u have smaller gauge 12 volt cables and switch to 6 volts that u need to replace the cables - not when u go from 6 to 12 volts.
Click to expand...

That s what I was thinking. As voltage goes up, amperage goes down. 6v cables will be overkill, but 100% safe to run.
 
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