Ford 8N ignition problems

Hey everyone, I have an 8N tractor that was converted over to 12 volt but the resistor wasn't hooked up. I found it has a melted coil, a
melted condenser, and melted points. Is the resistor what caused this ? Also the screw hole that holds the condenser down is bad, but I can retap it. Would the loose screw cause it. The key is never left in the on position on it. Thanks in advance.

Omitting a needed resistor is a potential culprit.

What year is your 8N, so we know if it is front mount distributor or a side mount?

When you say the screw hole is bad...is it loose, or is something grounding it out?

With very few exceptions points do not get 12 Volts,that is what the resister does,helps makes them last longer.
Just hook one up and replace the burnt stuff you will be fine.Be careful re tapping the threads,you do not want to
make it so big that the points or condenser will not fit the bolt anymore.

A very good question was asked - is it a front mount or an angle mount distributor? Only the front mount dist uses the ballast resistor (see pic) the angle (side)
mount dist does not. Was the tractor running before you switched it to 12V? Was it wired correctly? Did you remove the Voltage Regulator when you switched to an
alternator? How did you determine the coil was melted? Was it physically visible or did you check it? A loose condensor mount screw is not your root cause problem -you
have mucked up wiring, no doubt. When did the unit have the melt down -the moment you applied power with the ignition key? Start over. First disconnect the battery
cable and use no power. You need to verify wiring is all correct first with no shortcuts taken. Use the pictograms to use as a guide. If you have a front mount with
the ballast resistor, and a 6V coil, you will need to add an external 1-OHM ceramic in-line resistor. If you opt for (recommended) a 12V coil, there is no need for the
external resistor. Dump the lights out of the equation. Once wiring is correct and tractor is running, lights can be added in. Invest in the essential manuals. Report
back.

FORD N-TRACTOR 6V/POS GRN FRONT MOUNT WIRING PICTOGRAM :

Thanks guys, for your quick info. Yes I think the tractor is wired right. My cousin put a new wiring harness on it. But he didn't wire in the resistor, but I just found out that my brother in-law had replaced the coil so he may have put a 6 volt coil on it. Also my uncle who is now deceased, had 3 8n tractors and he is the one that done the 6 to 12 volt conversion. It was running good until a family member used it and run the crap out if it. Again thank y'all so much.

It is definitely a front mount distributor and I think a 1947 model. The screw hole that holds the condenser down is stripped out. But I can reach happy it. I will take pictures of the coil and points and upload them.

Also can someone tell me if this is a 6 volt or 12 volt coil that was put on there. There is a pic of the side of it with a part number.

It's in the wiring Gary -it isn't/wasn't wired correctly, and not anything to do with 'running the crap' out of it. These N's will run all day, everyday with no issues -they've been doing it for 80 years. Don't guess (... I think the tractor is wired right.) Your B-I-L and uncle got something mucked up. No disrespect to your deceased uncle but it doesn't matter if you had 1 or 100 N's, it doesn't mean he had them all wired correctly. The evidence is in the melted coil and points. 99.98% of all electrical issues are due to incorrect wiring regardless if 6V/POS GRN or 12V/NEG GRN. You have a front mount distributor switched to 12V -year of tractor is irrelevant. The coil can be tested static but not now since it's cooked. The coil you show is just a Cheena made unit with their part number and means nothing. The pictogram I posted for the front mount wiring is your roadmap to the correct setup for 12V. Did you save a copy to use? Questions you still need to answer: You say 12V -so the battery is 12V? Is the generator and VR out now and an alternator installed? Is the OEM Ballast Resistor installed? Front mounts are only mounted one correct way. You will need a new coil. A 12V square can coil is highly recommended if you are using 12V/NEG GRN ?see the reliable parts supplier picture at end. Part number is 9N12024-12V. Also, you will need a correctly rebuilt and tested distributor; a tested alternator (see local shop guy); possibly a new Ballast Resistor, and a new correct harness to start with. I you don't know how to do all the work, find someone who does and I'd avoid your cousin doing any work. He can sit and observe but should keep his hands off. If you want an OEM Rebuilt Front Mount Distributor, see Farmer Dan - [email protected] or email me. Do not connect the battery until the entire wiring and electrical are verified correct. The front mount distributor is set up a certain way ? essential manuals are your friend. Points are gapped at .015? and the timing is set using the diagram shown. The distributor is only mounted one correct way and if off 180? it will bust the aluminum housing base the second power gets applied. Get the essential manuals and pictograms. I am in Michigan so if you are close I could help you bring back correctly. My email is open.

FORD N-SERIES TRACTOR FRONT MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR - TUNEUP:

FORD N-SERIES TRACTOR FRONT MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR ? SETTING TIMING:

FORD N-SERIES TRACTOR FRONT MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR ? TOH TIMING GAGE:

FORD N-SERIES TRACTOR FRONT MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR ?WHEN INSTALLED WRONG:

FORD N-SERIES TRACTOR FRONT MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR 6V COIL TEST (for 12V double OHMS) -static :

FORD N-SERIES TRACTOR FRONT MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR FIRING ORDER; 1,2,4,3 CCW:

FORD N-SERIES TRACTOR ESSENTIAL CLYMER/I&T FO-4 MANUAL:

FORD TRACTOR PARTS SUPPLIER:


Tim Daley(MI)

I was unable to find anything to indicate if it is 6V or 12V using those markings. Does it have any other marks on it?

Those pictures are gnarly. Looks like it fried at the condenser or at the coil pigtail and went from there.

Never assume it?s correct just based on who wired it, *anybody* can have a bad day...you know the old saying, trust but verify. Plus, you?ve got at least three sets of hands there that touched the tractor, who may or may have not communicated what changes they made, etc... Now, if you?ve visually confirmed everything is wired up correctly, then I?d probably go ahead and replace the parts. I?d stick with a 12V coil to remove the need for the extra resistor.

Do make sure you check for shorts with a meter and verify the resistor behind the dash didn?t also fry.