Hydraulic oil

Is the transmission, rear end, and hydraulic system all the same oil in my 1952 8N? Filled near gear shift

Yes, one common sump. It holds approximately 5 gallons.
It is checked with the dipstick near your right heel when seated.

(quoted from post at 03:42:42 12/02/19) Is the transmission, rear end, and hydraulic system all the same oil in my 1952 8N? Filled near gear shift

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Yes it is. On the left side cover take the bottom bolt out. When oil comes out the transmission is full.

Yes.
Next question - "What should I use?"
I use universal tractor fluid (UTF) that meets Ford spec M2C-134d. This works well in the winter and summer. If your hydraulics have leaks, this will leak faster than the other alternatives, such as SAE 90 GL-1 gear oil. However, the gear oil will make your hydraulics slower in the winter (if it gets cold in your area) until the oil warms up.

In addition to what everyone else said...?

Do not dump all 5 gallons in it at the same time.

Put 4.5 or so in it, wait an hour or two for it to slowly find it's way back to the differential and dipstick.

If your pump base is full of sludge, 5 gallons of fluid will overfill the sump and immerse your old, dried out wheel seals in oil. Which then will leak on to your brakes.

Better underfilled than over filled.

See tips 3 & 4.
75 Tips

I just bought 5 gal. of Lube King Premium UTF for $44.99 . It is Ford 134 compatible. The last jug of 90wt. Mineral Oil was about $65 so this time i went with the UTF

Add the 4++ gal of UTF Slowly! ! The port between trans & Dif is small, so to keep the proper amount of oil in the trans as the 3 pt is used when moving.
There is a breather hole between the trans & clutch housing. Filling too fast won't hurt the clutch, & will drain out the weep hole, but that oil will only be a future dirt magnet.

That weep hole has the loop end of a Carter pin showing so that vibration/ movement will help to keep it open.
When I asked why that was there during my first oil change I was told...

"Don't ever pull that out...That what holds it all together!"

Get out your OEM Essential Manuals as the info is in there.

FORD TRACTOR HYDRAULIC OIL -
NEW HOLLAND/FORD MC-134D HYDRAULIC OIL ?NO LONGER AVAILABLE:


NAPA API SAE-90 GL-1:


TSC TRAVELLER BRAND:

Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)

Ambra Multi G 134

EXCEEDS OR MEETS THE FOLLOWING PERFORMANCE REQUIREMENTS:
SAE 10W-30 API GL-4 MAT 3525
[b:28e0055568]Ford M2C 134D[/b:28e0055568] Ford M2C 86B Allison C-4
Cat TO-2 MF 1135 MF 1141 MF 1143
NH 410 B

HiYa Jim-

CNH no longer makes and sells the Ambra Ford 134 oil. They only supply the modern stuff made for their newer NH Boomer Models. CNH figured it was time to obsolete the
old Ford parts and models so if they do stock anything, it is not cheap. I still get the N-Series front mount distributor points, p/n 87744524, from them -one of the
better brands, Made In The USA, with the phenolic rubbing block AND able to set the points with. $16 -average for comparable brands like Blue Streak and ECHLIN. The
last time I bought a 2.5 GAL jug of AMBRA oil it was $60 and that was several years ago. I buy in bulk now with teh NAPA GL-1 SAE-90 oil.

NAPA API GL-1 SAE-90 GEAR OIL:


Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)

I really like the cold weather performance of the UTF here in VA; I'm surprised that you use 90w in MI.

TSC UTF works better for me in VA than the NAPA gear oil.
75 Tips

(quoted from post at 06:20:31 12/03/19) HiYa Jim-

CNH no longer makes and sells the Ambra Ford 134 oil. They only supply the modern stuff made for their newer NH Boomer Models.

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The CNH Ambra MultiG product that Jim linked to at Messicks is the same fluid previously sold as psold Ford 134. It is in stock and ready for pickup. It is nothing more than an OEM branded UTF and in this case MultG is made for CNH by Viscosity Oil Company which makes many of the other CNH branded fluids. They have been supplying this particular UTF formulation to CNH for the last 20 years or so. Like all OEM branded UTFs it is pricey - Messicks wants $85 for a 5 gallon pail of MultiG. The generic TSC house brand is less than half of that.

Ford never recommended a GL1 gear oil. Their original recommendation was mild EP gear oil (which today would by API GL3/4 service class) in grades SAE 80 and 90. That was soon superceded by Ford M2C134 which was Fords designation for what is available today as any of a host of industry standard UTFs. Characteristic physical properties of this class of lubricant are viscosity of roughly 9.6 cSt@100C, Viscosity Index greater than 140, and API GL4 service performance.

FORD M2C134, Case 410B, Kubota UDT, JD J20C, and IH Hytran are all essentially equivalent specifications from the same time period and will perform interchsngeably in an N-series tractor as will the much less expensive generic formulations such as the ubiquitous Traveller Premium UTF.

TOH

Can absolutely confirm the Traveller brand ?for Ford tractors? GL-1 stuff absolutely makes the lift a *lot* slower at startup in cold weather. Also makes
starting the tractor with the clutch in (which I do anyway) and PTO off absolutely mandatory, as otherwise she stalls for the first 30 seconds or so.
However, my tractor leaks when warm with UTF in it from about four spots, and doesn?t leak at all with the Traveller, so it?s a sacrifice I can make here
in relatively mild Maryland. A side benefit is the thicker fluid made my shifter feel bit smoother.

It takes about 15 minutes with the PTO on to warm the hydraulics up enough to operate at normal speed on cold days, but since the tractor appreciates
a few minute warmup anyway, it really isn?t a big deal for me.

(quoted from post at 08:25:49 12/03/19) I really like the cold weather performance of the UTF here in VA; I'm surprised that you use 90w in MI.

TSC UTF works better for me in VA than the NAPA gear oil.
75 Tips

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I switched from 90w to UTF and now, when plowing snow, the lift is usable immediately. I used to have to wait 5 minutes or so for the 90w molasses to warm up.

I thought you only bought chicken feed and bird seed from TSC, Bruce? ; > )

TSC TRAVELLER BRAND:


TSC stuff is SAE 90 - same as NAPA. I've used all three brands with no issues (*see note)and here's the thing you guys need to remember/know. Since you warm up your tractor before operating it, or should be, more so in cold weather, and let it get warmed up/hot before using it, once it does get hot, the system will operate just fine. *I use to buy the TSC stuff as it was cheaper than the AMBRA CNH stuff but stopped after I bought two jugs and I had two different colors when I poured it in. I thought I had the wrong stuff at first or a jug of used oil it was that different. The N Sump capacity is 5 gallons and operates the 3-PT hydraulic lift; the transmission; and the differential. When changing new oil, after draining, cleaning, and installing new drain plug gaskets, only pour 2-3 gallons in system then briefly turn over to check for major leaks. You only want to pour in no more than 3-4 gallons and check dip stick level. If you pour all 5 gallons in, you may overfill and it can get messy.



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Hey guys,

I changed my fluids several months back using UTF. I have a slight leak at my weep hole area and need to add more fluid. Would it hurt anything to add the SAE 90 to the UTF? Just looking to try to slow up the leak a little and wasn't sure if mixing them would hurt anything.

(quoted from post at 11:33:35 12/13/19) Hey guys,

I changed my fluids several months back using UTF. I have a slight leak at my weep hole area and need to add more fluid. Would it hurt anything to add the SAE 90 to the UTF? Just looking to try to slow up the leak a little and wasn't sure if mixing them would hurt anything.

Click to expand...

Mixing won't hurt anything but unless you are adding multiple gallons it won't slow the leak.

TOH

Thanks TOH,

How bad of a job is it for a rookie to replace the seal?

(quoted from post at 14:03:48 12/13/19) Thanks TOH,

How bad of a job is it for a rookie to replace the seal?

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You have to split and rejoin the tractor behind the engine which will take you a day. Pretty easy in a shop with a floor jack and concrete floor. Not so nice or easy outside and/or on the ground. Other than that nothing difficult about the seal itself. Good time to consider clutch service while you are in there especially given the seal is leaking....

TOH