1940 ford 9n stalls

Smd90 · Oct 22, 2019

I just got this 1940 ford 9n that sat for about 2 years. I rebuilt the carburetor and cleaned the tank out and the replaced the fuel bowl, replaced the plugs, wires, points, and condenser. The tractor runs great at idle and with throttle but when I put it in 1st gear it does fine on flat ground but when you start up a hill or in 2nd or 3rd it just dies. I can start it right back and same thing happens. It?s converted to 12 volt. It has a full tank of gas. I pulled the governor off and looked at it and all looks good the balls aren?t flat spotted neither are the races. I did notice that the adjustment screw for the governor arm is missing but I don?t know what to set it to with a new bolt. Any help is appreciated

Royse · Oct 22, 2019

I think I would start by checking the linkages to make sure they
are hooked up correctly and not binding. Free and easy to check.
Does the engine speed respond correctly to throttle increases?
No lag or dead spots in the results when moving the throttle?

Smd90 · Oct 23, 2019

I will check the linkages in the morning and yes the throttle responds
normal with no hesitation or dead spots

Den N Ms · Oct 23, 2019

Smd90,You post,I did notice that the adjustment screw for the governor arm is missing but I don?t know what to set it to with a new bolt.
Yes it needs that adjustment bolt,I belie it is a 1/4" NCx1 1/4" threaded all the way with a nut to lock it.Screw it in till you get 2000 to 2200 RPMs at wide open throttle.
Also check the spring for no slop at idle position on the quadrant.
If the spring has slop at idle position,snog it up by bending the spring hooks closer together with a large pair of Channel lock pliers.Then check and set wide open throttle RPMs if needed.

Smd90 · Oct 23, 2019

It did not start before I got it it had old gas in it the sediment bowl had rust clogged in it so I replaced it. The carburetor had old gas in it and since I was taking it apart I rebuilt it. I changed the wire because the old ones were all different and stiff. I changed the plugs just because it?s never a bad thing and I changed the points and condenser because the previous owner didn?t know when it was last done and I figured it couldn?t hurt. I gapped the points to .015. The distributor is mounted correct. It was 12v before I got it and it has an alternator. I don?t know how to tell if the coil is 6v or 12v. I figured it wouldn?t run if it was 6v

Bruce (VA) · Oct 23, 2019

See tip # 14. If the governor checks out, move on to spark and fuel.

You need to answer 2 questions before you do anything else:

With the bolt in the carb bowl removed and the gas on, will the fuel flow fill a pint jar in less than 2 minutes?

Next, get out your adjustable gap spark checker * , open the gap to 1/4", hook it up, turn the key on and crank the engine. Does the spark jump 1/4"? Post back with the answers.

And do not buy a new part for the tractor until you can answer this question: how do I know the part on the tractor is defective?

Once you narrow the problem to spark or fuel, post back and tell us what you found (and how you found it) and you will get plenty of help to get your tractor running.

* Don't own an adjustable gap spark checker? Buy one! Not a test light! Until then, take an old plug, open the gap 1/4" ground it to the head & look for spark. It?s not the color of the spark that counts; it?s the distance it jumps.
75 Tips

Bob - MI · Oct 23, 2019

I would guess that Bruce has you moving in the right direction.

It's sounding to me that this has to be fuel delivery related. I have seen small engines have difficulty taking more throttle if the idle jet is too lean and I think back on old automotive carbs that had an accelerator pump on them. It was there to assure that the engine wouldn't stumble when the plate opened up and suddenly dumped more air in. When the engine picked up revs the higher air speed through the carb would then pull fuel through the high speed jet circuit.

Not saying that you should fiddle with the low speed jet but there's something off when the engine is starting to take more throttle.

HFJ · Oct 23, 2019

[i:b01a7a7152]"I don?t know how to tell if the coil is 6v or 12v. I figured it wouldn?t run if it was 6v"[/i:b01a7a7152]

a 12 volt system will run fine with a 6 volt coil. presumably, the extra voltage, if there's no extra resistor to deal with it, will eventually kill the 6 volt coil, but it will run in the meantime.

i've gotten several years out of a 6 volt coil on my 12 volt N. many others here can say the same.

Smd90 · Oct 23, 2019

Ok I think I?m on the right track. I pulled the plug out of the carb and I wasn?t event getting 12oz of fuel out so I checked from the fuel line and I got a pint in no time. I then pulled the screen out of the fitting on the carb and checked from the plug and again got a pint in no time. I have cleaned this screen while I cleaned the tank. I am going to get new screens and clean the tank again. Also I should note with the screen out I drove it around and it ran great in all gears and on hills but after a few mins it died and wouldn?t start right back. After maybe 30 seconds it started like it ran out of fuel. Do y?all think new screens and another tank cleaning is a good idea?

Bruce (VA) · Oct 23, 2019

Personally, I wouldn't waste my time cleaning an N gas tank once, much less twice. Buy a new one. $125 well spent
75 Tips

HCooke · Oct 23, 2019

Agree. I have one on order from YT at this moment. The only tanks I have cleaned are ones that you cannot buy new. Like the ones for the three '39s that I have.

Bruce (VA) · Oct 23, 2019

Yep.

Or Model A Fords.

1940 ford 9n stalls

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