rebuild thoughts

ok Chums...
found the leak in the 2n...not the plug behind the starter...huge weld on deck...I have another block...fairly sure its sound...but other than knowing it's free...nothing about its condition...the cracked block doesnt smoke...sounds like a sewing machine...thinking about a line bore and a swap of the guts...thoughts?
 
(quoted from post at 16:44:20 09/11/19) ok Chums...
found the leak in the 2n...not the plug behind the starter...huge weld on deck...I have another block...fairly sure its sound...but other than knowing it's free...nothing about its condition...the cracked block doesnt smoke...sounds like a sewing machine...thinking about a line bore and a swap of the guts...thoughts?
I dont understand the question.

TOH
 
Sorry Dan....in other words
for go miking crank and so on
and just transfer the guts
from the good running...but
bad block into the good
block...as I said...the
cracked block engine runs and
sounds superb...the tractor is
logged little use...its quite obvious...so I thought Id clean the good block..line bore and just transfer the parts from the cracked block engine...figure I will be saving money not buying parts...bearings...machine work and so on
 
Sorry Dan....in other words
for go miking cranks and so on
and just transfer the guts
from the good running...but
bad block into the good
block...as I said...the
cracked block engine runs and
sounds superb...the tractor is
logged little use...its quite obvious...so I thought Id clean the good block..line bore and just transfer the parts from the cracked block engine...
 

If you pull a pin on the hand grenade it will blow up... That's where you are headed guessing at swap'N parts...

How bad is the leak...
 
if its an oil leak try to retorque your correctly but don't go over what the specs say. yes you can transfer everything but you should put new bearings and rings in it and replace both crank seals that will be in the head gasket set you will have to buy. also flush out the new block. that's what I would do if it were mine and I couldn't live with a leak. good luck
 
I'd go for the rebuild kit and new parts into the good block - why take the time to re-assemble used parts hoping everything holds up. You'll have a fresh new motor after all your time and trouble versus all the time and trouble for an older/worn engine.....

Run it until it dies and have the new spare engine ready to swap in.
 
I your old block and the spare block have the same size pistons you don't need to bore it. you can use emery paper to clean up the cylinder walls as long as there is no scratches in it. all you need to do is remove the film left on them so your new rings will seat better. really only cost should be a gasket set for about 40 bucks from bay and bearings and rings so your cost shouldn't be over 100 bucks. I did this on my 8n and it turned out great. my costs were under a hundred. actually when you take the crank out of the spare motor and inspect the journal bearings you may not have to replace the bearings but they will have to be put back in the same place. you never did say what your leak was.
 
Hobo....gonna ask a
question..sorry it it sounds
dumb...but if I swapped all
parts...sleeves...bearings..
crank..cam...piston...rings...
etc....what are the
pitfalls..not sure I follow
you...as I mentioned...great
runner...no smoke...little use
 
I'd be concerned about pulling the sleeves - typically when you remove them it's because you're going to put new ones in. I'm not sure they were designed with enough structural integrity to remain straight/true/round after being drawn out and re-pressed into a "new" bore.

Another concern with the sleeves is if both motors are the thick wall or thin wall...... IIRC there were two designs depending on production/rebuild of the block.
 

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