spark plug torque

Spark plug torque for 43 2n? I don't see a search option. Perhaps someone could point out how to find it.

(quoted from post at 16:06:33 09/10/19) Spark plug torque for 43 2n? I don't see a search option. Perhaps someone could point out how to find it.

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Not really tractor specific. For gasketed plugs with 14MM threads in a cast iron head Champion recommends 25-30 lb-ft. Most people simply get them hand tight and then a [u:9c2f5a6c35]partial[/u:9c2f5a6c35] (3/8-5/8 ) turn with the wrench sufficient to crush the gasket. You will feel the resistance go up substantially as soon as the gasket is crushed.

TOH

Thank you. That's the method I have used on autos for the last 60 years. Just didn't know how sensitive/specific the old girl was.

I have never heard of anyone torquing their plugs. Hand tighten 1/8 to a 1/2 extra turn to secure. OEM Spec is 25-30 FT/LBS. Here's the thing. When removing a spark plug, always blow out the socket wells with compressed air to remove dirt and debris before pulling out. Use a 13/16 6-pt socket or the OEM FORD 01A-17017-B offset sparkplug wrench -it was made for the flat heads. Gap new plug to .025"-.028" and start by hand always. OEM FORD TRACTOR spark plugs spec'd as: 14mm Champion H-10. Since then, Champion released a hotter plug, the H-12 and an alternative is the AUTO-LITE 437 plug. Both are equally as good. Some fellas claim allegiance to one brand or the other, say one is better than the other, but that is their opinion and not based on facts (how does one gauge/measure performance?) and their choice. I've found BOTH are EQUALLY good and I've never had any issues with using either or. I buy whatever brand my store has in stock. The industry today, in their infinite wisdom, has decided to re-number the plugs. The Champion H-12 is also listed as the 512 plug and the AUTO-LITE 437 is also listed as the 216 plug so if your store can't find your original number, try one of those. BE ADVISED: The plug thread size is 14mm x 1.25mm -that's METRIC for those who don't know, and fine thread pitch size and attempts to chases the head plug threads with anything different will result in boogered up threads and a ruined head. There's no need to retap or chase the head plug threads anyway. A gentle air blast at insertion will clear any debris. If you have difficulty inserting a plug, you are either cross threading it or have a rusty plug thread. Try using a new plug to chase the thread with or a legitimate 14mm x 1.25mm plug tap. ALWAYS HAND START AND TIGHTEN PLUGS. Get plug fully seated by hand then a 1/8 turn to 1/2 turn or so by wrench to tighten. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. NO NEED TO TORQUE. Torque is often used a lot unnecessarily and often misunderstood anyway. Do you know what IN/OZ; IN/LB; FT/LB; and Newton Meters are? Do you know how to convert if your scale doesn't have the range you want? Leave the torque wrench in you box for bearings and heads and such. This is my method, my advice to others, but...

...your mileage may vary...

Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)

While spark plug torque isn't critical on older tractors it is important on newer vehicles. I pass this chart out to my students when we cover vehicle maintenance because they, being new techs, don't understand how tight to get spark plugs. I am not suggesting this is the case here, but wanted to pass this information along to anyone that needs it. Here is the link. https://www.autolite.com/docs/default-source/tech-specs/understanding-spark-plugs/torquespecs.pdfhttps://www.autolite.com/docs/default-source/tech-specs/understanding-spark-plugs/torquespecs.pdf
I hope this helps.

What these guys said is solid advice.

Tighten it down until you feel the gasket crush, used plugs just good and snug.

With new plugs I'll put a small dab of never seize on the threads.

In the toolbox I keep a plug socket that has the hex flats for a 3/4" wrench on it (have an adjustable in tool box), it's easier than getting a ratchet on plugs 2-4. Plug 1 is the most PITA to remove/install. I also keep a length of tubing in toolbox (gas line size), I use to blow the crap out around the plugs (by mouth) before removing.

I have been using autolites 437 but the finish quality has went down, I'm trying out some NGKs now and they are nickel plated and don't rust up like the autolites NGK 3112 (B-4l).

FORD nomenclature denotes the spark plug wrenches for all vehicles to be part number 17017. It is the prefix and/or suffix which defines the module first used on. Shown here are all the correct Ford tractor offset sparkplug wrenches with the 01A-17017-B wrench at bottommost four. These were often called the 'suitcase handle wrench' for their resemblance to a suitcase handle. These were used in all flat head Ford toolkits. The 14mm Champion spark plug size is 13/16 AF (Across Flats) not 3/4 as noted. The 01A-17017-B wrench is perfect for getting to your plugs.


FORD N-SERIES TRACTOR SPARK PLUG/HEAD BOLT WRENCHES:


Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)

(quoted from post at 06:44:28 09/13/19) The 14mm Champion spark plug size is 13/16 AF (Across Flats) not 3/4 as noted.

Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)

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Please note that the man said he used a spark plug socket with [b:361e1207e1]external[/b:361e1207e1] flats for a 3/4" wrench. Nothing about the AF dimension of the plug.

TOH