howse rotary cutter blades

Mad Farmer

Well-known Member
Location
Northeast
I brought this Howse 5ft cutter back in the late 1980s when I got my 9N.

It has been problem free except have to weld up a few spots/add some angle iron, even drive shaft u-joints are OEM. Using same over running coupler too, it gets greased with each use.

In past I have never removed the blades to sharpen them, just propped up mower and used a big angle grinder.

Yesterday hit a few rocks, have done this hundreds/thousands of times?

One of the blades bent. How has this never happened in the last 30 years?

Question is, should I take blades off, fix bent one with a press, sharpen and re-use? Besides one being bent they still look to in good shape.

Other question is how much of a PITA will it be removing the mounting bolts? Tips on this?

I can get new blades delivered $85. Good price and is quality of steel as good as original?

Should I get a new bolt set in either case?

Cutter is well used but gearbox has never leaked and deck won't need any welding soon.
 
(quoted from post at 10:29:53 09/10/19) I brought this Howse 5ft cutter back in the late 1980s when I got my 9N.

It has been problem free except have to weld up a few spots/add some angle iron, even drive shaft u-joints are OEM. Using same over running coupler too, it gets greased with each use.

In past I have never removed the blades to sharpen them, just propped up mower and used a big angle grinder.

Yesterday hit a few rocks, have done this hundreds/thousands of times?

One of the blades bent. How has this never happened in the last 30 years?

Question is, should I take blades off, fix bent one with a press, sharpen and re-use? Besides one being bent they still look to in good shape.

Other question is how much of a PITA will it be removing the mounting bolts? Tips on this?

I can get new blades delivered $85. Good price and is quality of steel as good as original?

Should I get a new bolt set in either case?

Cutter is well used but gearbox has never leaked and deck won't need any welding soon.

I am not a fan of vibration and I'd replace the bent blade. Expect a (small??) fight with the 30+ year old bolts. A good HD impact wrench is your friend in things like this. Unless I had to cut them off I wouldn't go out of my way to replace them. Concerns over the quality of steel in the replacement blade(s) would never cross my mind.

TOH
 
I am not a fan of vibration and I'd replace the bent blade. Expect a (small??) fight with the 30+ year old bolts. A good HD impact wrench is your friend in things like this. Unless I had to cut them off I wouldn't go out of my way to replace them. Concerns over the quality of steel in the replacement blade(s) would never cross my mind.

TOH

Thanks for advice Hokie.

I think with a good hydraulic press I might be able to get the blade straight, but sharpening will/does change weights and give vibrations. Hmmmmm......????

How is $85 for a set a blades, delivered? I've not priced them yet at local TSC, but then state screws me for tax too.

I don't have a big impact, but have a 3/4" set/breaker bar and 4' pipe. : ) Will spray them down a few times with ATF/acetone mix in advance.

Still wondering about the bolts, 30 years old. Do you usually have to beat them a bit to get them out? I assume the way to do would be just get the nut loose a few turns then have a big flat drift to hit the nut, maybe use a BFH or small sledge. That is not bugger up the threads.

This cutter has been a great machine. No problems in many years. Probably since when I hit something the 9N usually dies down before it does damage, can't always get to the clutch ASAP.

Too bad Howse is out of business.
 
I would most certainly replace both blades.

Beg, borrow, or steal a GOOD impact wrench, HD electric if you do not have a good source of 150+ PSI air. You will likely find removing the bolts is indeed a PITA with sockets and wrenches unless you have a torch.

Always replace the bolts when replacing the blades.

The $85 delivered price for new blades sounds good.

Dean
 

My big air compressor is at my other place, and would have to borrow an impact big enough to take 3/4". You guys are not fans of breaker bars and pipes?

Do have torches so can get the nuts a little reddish if needed.
 

Concerning blades on equipment, I always replace all the blades together. I keep used/matched ones together for spares.

Have to be careful removing = metal from each side of a lawn mower/deck type blade. You can hang them by a string from center bolt hole to see if balance is off.

Things that spin need balance.

I used to rebuild my SBC engines... I started with a clean machined block, and balanced assy (crank rods pistons), then set all clearances. Then they spin nice!

Had access to a nice garage/tools back then.
 
I had t o use a hot wrench to get the nuts off along with a impact wrench. I would replace the blades myself.
 
(quoted from post at 20:59:49 09/10/19) Howse is still in business. Google Howse Implement.

Well, I'm wrong on that one.

I had heard they went out of business a few years back.

I checked prices. I paid $500 for the cutter ~1989, They are $1400 now.
 

I would have new bolts, bolts with new hardware on hand... All cutters I have messed with the bolts have a locator dimple in them the dimple wares out the bolt spins when trying to remove it that makes it a P.I.T.A to do...

I prefer to remove the stump jumper get it out so I can replace the blades are sharpen them. If the hub is not stuck its a lot easier than fighting a grinder to sharpen the blades while still connected to the stump jumper...

That being said a stuck Hub can open up a can of worms...





https://forums.yesterdaystractors.c...ostorder=asc&highlight=stump&start=15

After I used the cutter in the link it wore into the front belt guard a little WTF it ended up it had a bent blade after replacing the blades all is well...

Bolt kit pix the locator/lock on the shaft...

https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Bush-Hog-Rotary-Washers/dp/B0792GVJR1
 

I called up Howse.

Two styles of bolts for these cutters (model 500). Some were squared and some had the nub to keep from spinning. Won't be able to tell which, until I get one out.
 

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