8n Perplexed

First off, I'm a new poster here. I've been a reader for some time. I have a '52 8n that I converted to 12v 16 years ago. I put the alternator & wiring harness on myself back then. I've had a "guy" for the last 16 years who has taken care of the tractor (he's a tractor mechanic in real life and grew up with an 8n). For whatever reason my "guy" will not return a text or a call so I've found myself on my own. My tractor has always started up immediately but back in the spring it began taking a long time to start. 3 weeks ago the starter became stuck in a continuos whine while trying to start it - even when I turned it off. I began to smell "electrical burn" so I disconnected the battery wire to solenoid to get it to stop. I figured I burnt up the starter so I ordered a new starter & solenoid & battery cables. I replaced the starter, solenoid & battery cables and when I went to start it I get nothing - not a sound. I should have said that I bought a brand new battery too. I am not a mechanic at all. The things I've done myself have been from reading articles here and watching YouTube videos. I assume my alternator may need replacing as well as the starter button. Where do I go from here? I fear I'm just buying new parts without knowing what the issue really is. Any help would be appreciated more than I can say.
 
" I fear I'm just buying new parts without knowing what the issue really is."

Yep.

And feel fortunate that you only invested in a few parts that you probably didn't need.



Time for some troubleshooting. Folks here will be glad to help.



Do you own a multimeter?
75 Tips
 
FWIW, the tractor has a side mount distributor that was recently "tuned up". New spark plugs, points, rotor, condenser and cap.
 
Buy one. Walmart has them as well.

When you get one, re-post with this info and you will get plenty of help.

https://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-digital-multimeter-63759.html?cid=paid_google*PLA+-+All+ProductsAll+Products63759&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&mkwid=sKE0GgBvZpcrid327822404853pkwpmtpdvcslidproduct63759&pgrid=71439424048&ptaid=aud-454408222021:pla-296227499965&pcid=1688396772&intent=&gclid=CjwKCAjwzdLrBRBiEiwAEHrAYpUiSSoBD7vhsEsbvz1mA0Sa_UN3GTuxMSAkeV2Y9rZv9non573jaxoC6UMQAvD_BwE
75 Tips
 
(quoted from post at 17:01:05 09/08/19) I do not.
ith your symptoms and someone "just replaced the solenoid", the most common problem is the wrong solenoid was installed. Use jumper cables or even pliers to short from one large solenoid terminal to the other and if starter functions fine, then get the proper solenoid. Otherwise, post back with results. BE SURE TRANSMISSION IS IN NEUTRAL.
 
Further to what JMOR said:
Don't know where you got your parts, or where the previous owners of my 51 8N got theirs, But the starter solenoid on mine is backwards. The small terminal that connects to the starter switch is on the outside (away from block) rather than inside (toward block).

You never know.
 
When was your last tune-up? Stuck starter could be due to wrong one or a short causing an open circuit, again bad wiring. You then made several errors in buying some new parts based on assumptions, not facts. Your local starter/alternator shop could have bench tested the starter motor in 5 minutes and if bad, then have rebuilt, especially if an original unit. ALL Fords were engineered so major components could be rebuilt over and over and since most Cheena made stuff is junk nowadays should have been your first choice. Your shop guy can also test the solenoid and alternator as well. Forget watching U-TOOB for your information. Everyone has an opinion and how their way of what they perceive should be done. There are a few exceptions. ?Wrenching With Rachel? is one with an accurate and no BS fluff way of explaining things. If ya wanna be an N owner, I suggest you invest in the essential manuals and start reading. You don?t have to be a NASA engineer to work on these things. Who knows it just might be a little fun too.


FORD 8N TRACTOR ESSENTIAL OWNER/OPERATOR/PARTS/SERVICE MANUALS:
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Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)
 
I finally found a guy to come deal with it. He checked all connections with voltage tester. Determined there was a short with the key switch. I got a new key switch and he installed it. Still wouldn't start. Wouldn't even turn over. The battery dropped to 6v when we hit the start button and he said that's not enough to start it. He triple checked the wiring with my Shop Manual and is kinda stumped - said it is wired exactly as it should be. He wants me to return the battery and get another one. The battery was brand new 6 weeks ago when I got it but I suppose it could be a bad one. I charged the battery yesterday evening and it tests 12v but drops to 6 when the start button is pushed. Any ideas on what could be causing the drop?
 
(quoted from post at 21:24:34 09/24/19) I finally found a guy to come deal with it. He checked all connections with voltage tester. Determined there was a short with the key switch. I got a new key switch and he installed it. Still wouldn't start. Wouldn't even turn over. The battery dropped to 6v when we hit the start button and he said that's not enough to start it. He triple checked the wiring with my Shop Manual and is kinda stumped - said it is wired exactly as it should be. He wants me to return the battery and get another one. The battery was brand new 6 weeks ago when I got it but I suppose it could be a bad one. I charged the battery yesterday evening and it tests 12v but drops to 6 when the start button is pushed. Any ideas on what could be causing the drop?
re you measuring DIRECTLY on the battery posts or on the cable connectors or some other place?
 
A battery can show full voltage at idle, then a massive drop under load. Any shop and most parts stores can load-test the battery in a couple of minutes.
 

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