Updating 1942 9 N TO 12 VOLT

Updating my old 1942 Ford 9 N FROM 6 VOLT TO 12 VOLT and also istalling the Pertronix kit to eliminate the points and condenser. Here is my problem---Also have a new 12 volt COIL. The springy twisty wire on the bottom of the new coil will not set down into the assembly. The spring seems to be too long. Any ideas.
len in michigan

HiYa Len-
There's nothing wrong with doing a 12V conversion nor going with the Electronic Ignition, but realize that if it isn't running now on 6V, what makes you think you are going to 'update' your system? An often made mistake fellers do is to exactly that. realize that 99.98% of all non-starting tractor issues are due to mucked up wiring. They or someone else has cobbled up the wiring to their interpretation/perception of how it is done that the tractor no longer performs and out of frustration they believe the only solution is to go to 12V and/or EI. With the proper manuals, the I&T FO-4 Manual is a good place to start, and correct wiring system, a 6V/POS GRN set up will run like a champ starting with a correct distributor rebuild. I'm just saying because if you the let the smoke out your EI due to incorrect wiring, you are looking at a relatively expensive cost fix. Whether 6V/POS GRN or 12V/NEG GRN one must ensure that the entire wiring system is correct for your system, no shortcuts allowed. As our old curmudgeon Dell, rest in peace, use to say, "...I'm a 6V advocate for all the right reasons...". My advice is to be sure your 6V set up is running correctly before you switch to 12V and/or an EI system.

Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)

(quoted from post at 21:22:14 08/19/19) Updating my old 1942 Ford 9 N FROM 6 VOLT TO 12 VOLT and also istalling the Pertronix kit to eliminate the points and condenser. Here is my problem---Also have a new 12 volt COIL. The springy twisty wire on the bottom of the new coil will not set down into the assembly. The spring seems to be too long. Any ideas.
len in michigan

Click to expand...

It's a compression spring and you should be able to press the coil down enough to seat and swing the bail over the top. Do you have the cork gasket in place? How long is the spring on the new coil tip to base?

TOH

Thank you fellas for your help----The old 6 volt the spring is 7/16 long--the new 12 volt is 10/16 ----3/16 difference in the length. Also I do have the gasket in place. Just push the new coil down?????

Hello Tim I needed a new battery and my coil was going--according to my rebuild place. So I decided to just go the new route. It was a tough decision as my dad bought the tractor new in 42 and it has never spent a night out in the weather.
Where are you Located if you don't mind saying----I am at Clare....

(quoted from post at 13:33:00 08/20/19) Thank you fellas for your help----The old 6 volt the spring is 7/16 long--the new 12 volt is 10/16 ----3/16 difference in the length. Also I do have the gasket in place. Just push the new coil down?????

Click to expand...

hat seems reasonable to be. The old spring may actually have lost some free length over the years. As long as the coils on the new spring don't bind push it down and call it better than the old.

TOH

Well, your source is feeding you line of BS -coils don't 'start going', they either work or they don't. There is something else as the root cause problem. I'm in Lapeer County.

TPD

With all respect, coils can start to go. The original coil from when I bought my 2N in '95 would work until it got hot (from working hard in Texas summer, never had issues in winter). Then work again only after the stalled motor sat long enough for it to cool. But your point is taken.

You are very right about bad wiring, lesson learned the hard way.

I put EI in 10-15 years ago because the points on the front mount were a real pain in the... Especially when I only have so much time each week to dedicate to farm work. Next to rewiring the ol' girl, it was the best thing I ever did to keep her consistently reliable.