Converted 9N Ammeter

ckblough

New User
Hey gang . . . please some one have a silver bullet for my issue. I have a 9N that has been converted to 12V. It runs like a top but I noticed the other day my battery dragging and coincidentally ammeter not showing a charge. I replaced alternator with a self exciting, internally regulated alternator. I have been able to get it to put out a charge just fine. However, nothing at ammeter. Actually to get the charge back to system so tractor will run without battery, I had to "jump" the ammeter. So I figured ammeter is the culpirit so I replaced it with one from autozone---same issue. For the meantime I just spliced the two leads that should go to ammeter together---runs great and charges batter but irks me.

What am I missing?
 
(quoted from post at 12:44:39 07/22/19) Hey gang . . . please some one have a silver bullet for my issue. I have a 9N that has been converted to 12V. It runs like a top but I noticed the other day my battery dragging and coincidentally ammeter not showing a charge. I replaced alternator with a self exciting, internally regulated alternator. I have been able to get it to put out a charge just fine. However, nothing at ammeter. Actually to get the charge back to system so tractor will run without battery, I had to "jump" the ammeter. So I figured ammeter is the culpirit so I replaced it with one from autozone---same issue. For the meantime I just spliced the two leads that should go to ammeter together---runs great and charges batter but irks me.

What am I missing?
irst impression would be incorrect wiring
 
it's basically hot wire from the battery/ignition on one post and supposedly hot wire coming from alternator . . .

Is there potentially something with newer gauge that needs to be set up different?
 
(quoted from post at 13:10:31 07/22/19) it's basically hot wire from the battery/ignition on one post and supposedly hot wire coming from alternator . . .

Is there potentially something with newer gauge that needs to be set up different?
hat should make ammeter read the alternator output, but it will not show negative for battery drain when wired like that. If you want NET reading ammeirt, you need ONLY battery on one terminal and all loads PLUS the alternator on the other. As wired you may see very little charging current once up and running for a minute or two, because battery is fully charged and ignition is drawing too small a current to register on a 30 amp meter (ign draw ~1 1/4 amperes). Measure battery terminal voltage to test for charging, if charging expect ~14+ volts and if only 12.5 volts, then not charging.
 

that's making some sense---at some point when tinkering with it I would get a tiny bit of movement on the needle. However, to get the alternator going I still had to "jump" the gauge to excite it.

It appears the way it's wired will work somewhat, however
-I'm not getting any juice from the battery down to the alternator to excite it
-once alternator is going, the gauge isn't letting juice back through to charge and/or register on gauge.

Now my brain is spinning wonder if the gauge ever even worked :?
 
(quoted from post at 13:52:58 07/22/19)
that's making some sense---at some point when tinkering with it I would get a tiny bit of movement on the needle. However, to get the alternator going I still had to "jump" the gauge to excite it.

It appears the way it's wired will work somewhat, however
-I'm not getting any juice from the battery down to the alternator to excite it
-once alternator is going, the gauge isn't letting juice back through to charge and/or register on gauge.

Now my brain is spinning wonder if the gauge ever even worked :?
onnect battery to one side of ammeter and a headlamp to the other and that ought to be enough current for a test of meter deflection.
 

good call. thank you for all your help. Best I can tell it is wired so it will work vs. actually being correct.
 

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