ORC holes won't line up

matt1325

Member
Hey everyone need a little help troubleshooting and ORC. The holes on the clutch will not match up flush with my PTO shaft. I replaced the seal and gasket for the PTO because it was leaking and put it back
in and tried the ORC and it is about 1/8 of an inch or less from lining up. It is a brand new ORC and I never tried putting it on before changing the PTO seal. Is there a possibility I didn't replace the seal
correctly? I attached the diagram from the manual and I put every piece in just like that. Maybe I didn't hammer something in all the way or maybe the clutch itself is bad? I ground down the outer bevel
some and it didn't help. I also grinded the very edge of the fat end a little but I am afraid to go too far because the retaining clip in the ORC is right at the edge there (pictured).

Any ideas should I just keep grinding or remove the PTO shaft again? Maybe try a different one ORC?
cvphoto29809.jpg


cvphoto29810.jpg
 
they will only line up one way, the holes are slightly offset, see if it lines up if you hold the pto shaft and turn the outer part 180 degrees
 
I've got the new style 1- 3/8" pto shaft so can't help you there, but here is what my old ORC measures from face to center of pin:

1-7/16"


mvphoto39588.jpg
 
Thanks will see if it spins all the way around 180 and check the length with a tape measure and post back when I get off work.
 
Ok I turned it 180 degrees and it looked the same. Holes just don?t match up. I took pictures of the orc and the shaft with a ruler.
 

When I had the old original PTO shaft in my 8N, I purchased an ORC for it. I had the same problem as you described. It just wouldn't go on far enough for the holes to line up.

I cleaned up the PTO shaft as best as I could. Then I took a file and cleaned up the sides of the slots on the PTO. Once the splines were nice and clean and there were no burrs on the edges of the splines, the ORC then slid on enough to fit right.

It doesn't take much for a small burr or dent on those splines to make it hard to get an ORC on.
 

Those splines on your PTO shaft look about like mine did before I took a file to them and cleaned them up.
 
Matt did you get it to work? thats odd to not work, my jubilee still has the original 1, 1/8th shaft in it, worn badly, but will take the orc with not trouble, i do so much mowing i wear one out where its sloppy as a grain sack in a year and they always fit
 
do you have anything else that takes a pin to install, like a pto extension? just wondering if its a wrong made orc, or the tractor shaft is not right, but surly after all this time somebody has used the hole
 
I would be nice if a couple of people on this forum with 1-1/8" pto shafts (I don't have one) could take this measurement so Matt could see if his sticking out far enough. Seems it's not.

mvphoto39633.gif
 
(quoted from post at 14:17:26 07/17/19) Hit the 'submit' button a bit soon, wish I could change the mistakes
3/8 (late/larger size) is longer than original smaller shaft.
 

Hope this helps you. This is my old 1 1/8" shaft and ORC from my 8N.

#1 & 2 shows hole location from forward end of ORC and from the shoulder.

#3 Shows tape measure to inside of casting.

#4 Shows tape from outside of casting

#5 Shows hole from end of shaft, 1/2".

#6 shows the orc on the shaft.

5JqzxVE.jpg

4wuKLKA.jpg

y1EXKjS.jpg

lC6lxus.jpg

XlbdGry.jpg

7nlQaXo.jpg
 
Mine looks about the same as this one. I have used several different ORC over the years and never had any problems. I would be looking inside of the ORC to make sure nothing is in it stopping it from going on all the way.
 
Thanks for all the posts for
Suggestions and the pictures. I plan on spending tomorrow getting it figured out. I will post back then and let you know what I find out .
 
(quoted from post at 19:27:13 07/19/19) Thanks for all the posts for
Suggestions and the pictures. I plan on spending tomorrow getting it figured out. I will post back then and let you know what I find out .

When you push the ORC onto the shaft, does it have a definate clunk when it stops? Or does it just get tight and will not go on any farther? That's how mine was when it wouldn't go on all the way. It didn't stop with a clunk, it just got tight.

As I said, when I took a file and cleaned up the splines on the PTO shaft, it finally slid on all the way. In your picture it looks like you have about a quarter inch gap between your tractor case and the ORC. That is how mine looked when it wouldn't go on all the way.

I'm betting that some cleaning up with a file will solve your problem.
 
I apologies for the angle my tape is in relation to the 1 3/8 PTO shaft:

Distance is 2 3/8"....1 3/8" PTO shaft complete with housing and bearings in my 2-N...Shaft was removed from one of my Ferguson parts Tractors...direct fit:

Bob....

cvphoto30292.jpg
 

There is definitely a clunk. I filed everything took the pto shaft out again and double checked I installed the seal properly and everything is perfect.

Looks like from the end of the inner casting on the cover to the middle of the pto hole is a little less than 4cm but the end of the orc to the center of the hole is a little longer than 4 cm.

I have an angle grinder and a sander with low grit paper I could grind the end down but that retaining spring is pretty close to the edge there. Think I might take it to a machine shop or return the clutch any other ideas?
 
(quoted from post at 18:27:39 07/20/19)
There is definitely a clunk. I filed everything took the pto shaft out again and double checked I installed the seal properly and everything is perfect.

Looks like from the end of the inner casting on the cover to the middle of the pto hole is a little less than 4cm but the end of the orc to the center of the hole is a little longer than 4 cm.

I have an angle grinder and a sander with low grit paper I could grind the end down but that retaining spring is pretty close to the edge there. Think I might take it to a machine shop or return the clutch any other ideas?

Matt, bite the bullet and do what I did years ago. Get a 1-3/8" shaft (It's longer) and a push button ORC, they sell them on this site. You won't be sorry and you'll be better off in the long run.
 
(quoted from post at 14:47:24 07/20/19)
(quoted from post at 18:27:39 07/20/19)
There is definitely a clunk. I filed everything took the pto shaft out again and double checked I installed the seal properly and everything is perfect.

Looks like from the end of the inner casting on the cover to the middle of the pto hole is a little less than 4cm but the end of the orc to the center of the hole is a little longer than 4 cm.

I have an angle grinder and a sander with low grit paper I could grind the end down but that retaining spring is pretty close to the edge there. Think I might take it to a machine shop or return the clutch any other ideas?

Matt, bite the bullet and do what I did years ago. Get a 1-3/8" shaft (It's longer) and a push button ORC, they sell them on this site. You won't be sorry and you'll be better off in the long run.

I'll second that. It's exactly what I did. A new shaft is cheap enough and comes complete and ready to install. Just remove the four bolts, slide the old shaft out and slide the new one in.
 
Boom! Finally got it on. I honestly am not sure how I did it I think I just got lucky doubt I could do it again and it may never come off so hopefully the new seal lasts a long time. I used 40 grit sandpaper to grind off a little and then I just messed around with it until 2 of the inner holes looked close. I just banged the roll pin and somehow it went in.

Thanks to everyone for the suggestions and taking time to measure an upload pictures. I would never have got the tractor running in the first place without this website. (Bad condenser)

On to a new thread I can't catch a break seems like. I bushhogged 2 passes and the tractor died.

cvphoto30319.jpg
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top