No spark on 53 Jubilee

JGorm

New User
Ant help is appreciated. 53 Jubilee, no spark at plugs. Replaced coil, resister, condenser, and starter button, have power at coil, points and distributor.
No power to plugs. Tested all wires in system and they checked out ok. Test light show power at distributor at connection with key on but no power
when starter putt on is pushed. Checked and replaced starter button. New coil too. Only thing I have not yet replaced are the points. Any ideas on what
could be stopping power to the spark plugs? All ideas would be appreciated.
JGorm
 
(quoted from post at 13:51:15 07/04/19) Ant help is appreciated. 53 Jubilee, no spark at plugs. Replaced coil, resister, condenser, and starter button, have power at coil, points and distributor.
No power to plugs. Tested all wires in system and they checked out ok. Test light show power at distributor at connection with key on but no power
when starter putt on is pushed. Checked and replaced starter button. New coil too. Only thing I have not yet replaced are the points. Any ideas on what
could be stopping power to the spark plugs? All ideas would be appreciated.
JGorm
ut test light on distributor connection to coil and see if it flashed on/off/on as you crank engine. It should. If ON steady=points never closing connection or path broken.. If always dark=short to ground (examine feed-thru in side of distributor).
 
If the test JMOR gave you proves good, then how fully charged is your battery? If it's low, it may turn the engine over but not have enough left for ignition. I'm having charging issues with my NAA AGAIN, (12 volt conversion is right around the corner if I don't get this resolved). Anyway this tractor always starts right up, but with the battery measuring 6.24 volts the other day, it started, but took a lot longer than usual.
 
Thanks Jmor, I will be rebuilding connections to distributor in morning ...ordered all new parts with new insulators. Will install new points condenser,
rotor, cap and wires. Have replaced all other part already with new last week. 12 volt system and battery is fully charged. I?ll post what I find tomorrow
evening.
Thanks again
Jgorm
 
(quoted from post at 22:46:06 07/10/19) Thanks Jmor, I will be rebuilding connections to distributor in morning ...ordered all new parts with new insulators. Will install new points condenser,
rotor, cap and wires. Have replaced all other part already with new last week. 12 volt system and battery is fully charged. I?ll post what I find tomorrow
evening.
Thanks again
Jgorm
Replacing all the parts may cause more problems than it fixes.
Today's aftermarket parts are not good quality parts.
It is far better to troubleshoot the problem and find the cause.
It could be as simple as cleaning and gapping the old points.
At zero cost.
JMOR's suggested flashing light test could show that.
 
Update: I?ve replaced a & tested each of these components. Resister, coil, points, condenser, starter button, distributor connection new parts. Found
what could have been short in distributor connection so replaced all parts at connection and all insulators. Using the test probe w/key on, light (power)
at key, at both sides of coil, at distributor, at hot side of points. Turn engine over and no light at distributor connection or points. Pointsset correctly
(0.025) and are opening and closing but no spark..test probe light does not flash.
There must be a short somewhere but where else can it be? I?ve tested and replaced everything so what am I missing?
It is a 12volt system with good fully charged battery.
Any suggestions?
JGorm
 
" Using the test probe w/key on, light (power)
at key, at both sides of coil, at distributor, at hot side of points. Turn engine over and no light at distributor connection or points."
Is that last sentence, while cranking or after cranking stops? How about an answer to both.
 
Update: I?ve replaced a & tested each of these components. Resister, coil, points, condenser, starter button, distributor connection new parts. Found
what could have been short in distributor connection so replaced all parts at connection and all insulators. Using the test probe w/key on, light (power)
at key, at both sides of coil, at distributor, at hot side of points. Turn engine over and no light at distributor connection or points. Pointsset correctly
(0.025) and are opening and closing but no spark..test probe light does not flash.
There must be a short somewhere but where else can it be? I?ve tested and replaced everything so what am I missing?
It is a 12volt system with good fully charged battery.
Any suggestions?
JGorm
 
I?ve retested. The parts and have power ( light on test probe) to hot side of points. I bypassed the connection on side of distributor by wire from coil to points. Retested condenser and it appears ok. BUT still no spark when crank engine. Battery fully charged started appears to be fine also.
Could there be an internal short in the distributor and if so how can I test to find the short? Or what else could be shorting out when cranking engine an killing the spark.?
Points are new and openclose correctly, set at 0.025 as spec in manual shows.
Help!
JGorm
 
(quoted from post at 15:12:28 07/11/19) I?ve retested. The parts and have power ( light on test probe) to hot side of points. I bypassed the connection on side of distributor by wire from coil to points. Retested condenser and it appears ok. BUT still no spark when crank engine. Battery fully charged started appears to be fine also.
Could there be an internal short in the distributor and if so how can I test to find the short? Or what else could be shorting out when cranking engine an killing the spark.?
Points are new and openclose correctly, set at 0.025 as spec in manual shows.
Help!
JGorm
ell me about starter button replacement.
 
The last sentence is while cranking.
With key on and NOT cranking engine, power ( light bright on probe) is at key, both sides of coil, at hot side of points. When crank engine with key on
probe light goes out and does not flash, but points are opening and closing with visual inspection while cranking.

I bypassed the distributor side connection, disconnected it at points, connected wire from coil directly to points and tested for power with key on and not
cranking...probe lights up. Cranked engine with this configuration and no spark...probe light goes out and doesn?t light up until I stop cranking engine.

Clearly there is a short but I cant find it! What am I missing? Any ideas?
And thank you for all your help
 
I initially thought th starter button was shorting out because test light would go out when pushing button and return when you let up on the button. So I
ordered a new one and installed it . No change in result after new button installed. I also used new insulating gasket under new button.
Is this enough info?
Again thanks.
 
(quoted from post at 17:08:43 07/11/19) The last sentence is while cranking.
With key on and NOT cranking engine, power ( light bright on probe) is at key, both sides of coil, at hot side of points. When crank engine with key on
probe light goes out and does not flash, but points are opening and closing with visual inspection while cranking.

I bypassed the distributor side connection, disconnected it at points, connected wire from coil directly to points and tested for power with key on and not
cranking...probe lights up. Cranked engine with this configuration and no spark...probe light goes out and doesn?t light up until I stop cranking engine.

Clearly there is a short but I cant find it! What am I missing? Any ideas?
And thank you for all your help
"........and, what about starter button replacement question?
 
I posted this about2:40 this afternoon
I initially thought th starter button was shorting out because test light would go out when pushing button
and return when you let up on the button. So I
ordered a new one and installed it . No change in result after new button installed. I also used new
insulating gasket under new button.
Is this enough info?
Again thanks.

Let me know what you think
 
(quoted from post at 18:41:15 07/11/19) I posted this about2:40 this afternoon
I initially thought th starter button was shorting out because test light would go out when pushing button
and return when you let up on the button. So I
ordered a new one and installed it . No change in result after new button installed. I also used new
insulating gasket under new button.
Is this enough info?
Again thanks.

Let me know what you think
o, actually I have no idea what you are talking about! Insulating gasket under the starting button????
 
I?m just puzzled. I?ve tested and or replaced everything in the ignition except the celenoid, which seem to be ok, and I can?t find the short that is clearly stopping the spark.
What am I missing in this system?
Does anyone have suggestion on what else to look at?
Do you think installing an electronic ignition unit would solve this issue?
Your thoughts are appreciated.
 
(quoted from post at 08:37:57 07/12/19) I?m just puzzled. I?ve tested and or replaced everything in the ignition except the celenoid, which seem to be ok, and I can?t find the short that is clearly stopping the spark.
What am I missing in this system?
Does anyone have suggestion on what else to look at?
Do you think installing an electronic ignition unit would solve this issue?
Your thoughts are appreciated.
asket under starter switch is to control lubricant escape/dirt entry, not an insulator, as the switch supplies ground to solenoid. Try a jumper wire direct from battery (un-grounded post) to coil (NOT distributor side of coil) and then try to start without ignition turned on (leave in OFF position).
 

[b:9d08807318]"I?ve tested and or replaced everything in the ignition except the celenoid"[/b:9d08807318]

a solenoid is not part of the ignition.
 
I?ll try that when I get back to work on it next week, then post the results. Thanks for your input and advice, I?ll let you know what future results I get.
 
Just an update on my issue with no spark. Did not really identify the problem how ever after installing a Pertonic electronic ignition and changing the coil
to one with internal resister and bypassing the external resister with a jumper, the ole 53 Jubilee fired up and has been running fairly good.
I don?t quite understand after replacing everything with new components I just could not find the short!

I want to thank everyone for your suggestions as I used every trouble shooting recommendation without success. Your willingness to help is greatly
appreciated.

Now I?m just happy it is running well and I can get on with the tasks at hand.
Take care everyone, and thanks again for all your help.
 
Sometimes, a fellow just has to do what he's gotta do.
hdMUM1S.jpg
 
Hope the EI never fails cuzz the diagnostics izz pert need the same :)..

Jessie Is gonna have to get his crayons out and splain this light bulb check'N magic... :wink:
 
(quoted from post at 20:50:03 07/30/19) Hope the EI never fails cuzz the diagnostics izz pert need the same :)..

Jessie Is gonna have to get his crayons out and splain this light bulb check'N magic... :wink:
9.44% of posters are not ready for that!
 

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