12 volt wiring on 8n

bobgrimes

Member
I am trying to rebuild a 1948 8n. Is there some place I can find a wiring diagram for a one wire alternator. This tractor was converted from 6 volt and every thing was kind of jerry rigged. wires were glued to the old coil and ran to a conventional coil with a reducer. Front mount distributor and coil. I have purchase a new coil that mounts on the top of the distributor but the wiring diagrams I can find seem to be different than the way this was wired before. Help!
 
(quoted from post at 19:02:20 06/28/19) I am trying to rebuild a 1948 8n. Is there some place I can find a wiring diagram for a one wire alternator. This tractor was converted from 6 volt and every thing was kind of jerry rigged. wires were glued to the old coil and ran to a conventional coil with a reducer. Front mount distributor and coil. I have purchase a new coil that mounts on the top of the distributor but the wiring diagrams I can find seem to be different than the way this was wired before. Help!
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Always need a ballast resistor? Even with a 12 volt coil? I thought that's why you can order 12 volt coils? I have one on the way from YT. I thought that would delete the resistor.
 
The 12 volt coil removes the need for the extra resistor but the original ballast resistor is still required.
 
(quoted from post at 23:03:14 06/28/19) Always need a ballast resistor? Even with a 12 volt coil? I thought that's why you can order 12 volt coils? I have one on the way from YT. I thought that would delete the resistor.
nlike too many posters, if I put it out there, it is correct.
 
If you have a front coil (do you?) you always need the oem ballast resistor.

You need to keep the coil running current below 4 amps. As the 12v front coil usually has an internal resistance of 2 ohms, and the oem ballast resistor is 1.7 ohms hot, that gets you 3.7 ohms total resistance. 14.5 volts/3.7 ohms = 3.9 amps.

You can run it w/o the oem ballast resistor for many hours; 14.5v/2ohms is 7.25 amps, nearly twice the design parameters of the coil. Some are more robust than others, but sooner or later, you get a weak spark or no spark at all. Sorta like running low air pressure in your tires on a long trip.
75 Tips
 
Ok... so now I guess I have a question regarding the external resistor also. I just finished a 12v conversion on my "48" front distributor 8n. I ended up using the new external resister because I was having issues with the old ballst resister burning up my keyswitch. Yes, it was wired correctly...
The new resister meters out at 4.5 ohms, so given that the new 12v coil has approx. 2ohms of resistance, that would give me 6.5 total ohms which theoretically should put me at 2.2 amps or thereabouts. Well below the 4 you mentioned. Am I correct with this? Or am I missing something that i need to go back and fix...
 
(quoted from post at 12:00:39 06/29/19) Ok... so now I guess I have a question regarding the external resistor also. I just finished a 12v conversion on my "48" front distributor 8n. I ended up using the new external resister because I was having issues with the old ballst resister burning up my keyswitch. Yes, it was wired correctly...
The new resister meters out at 4.5 ohms, so given that the new 12v coil has approx. 2ohms of resistance, that would give me 6.5 total ohms which theoretically should put me at 2.2 amps or thereabouts. Well below the 4 you mentioned. Am I correct with this? Or am I missing something that i need to go back and fix...
f spark is strong enough for start & run, why mess with success? Maybe in the cold of winter, you will need to reduce that 4.5.
 
Is that the white ceramic one in between key switch and coil? I'm new to the Ns. Have owned a 640 and 960 for several years, whole different deal!
 
No.

The oem ballast resistor is on top of the terminal block. Look again. You may have 2 resistors. Which is the norm if you have a 6v coil. Do you?
75 Tips
 
Will look tomorrow after church. Unknown coil. I ordered a 12 volt coil from YT. Actually have 2 of these I'm trying to get going. One was running,but smoking. Last week the key switch gave up, I was having to jiggle it, so to get it to drive to the barn I used a jumper wire from key switch to ceramic resistor, didn't work on one side but started on other side ( on coil side) the tractor ran about 3-4 minutes ,started running rough and back fired,then quit. Spark is really weak, barely Sparks a plug. Also has black goo oozing out if coil. We have not done any tune up to this tractor. It had been sitting for 4 years. Complete tune up has been ordered. We did change all fluids, clean carb and air breather.
 

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