Carb Connections

Elbow, fittings, fuel line, sediment bowl??????????????
What is preferred??? Teflon Tape or Teflon Paste (Pipe Compound)????????????

Dick,Maybe a dad of Teflon paste on brass fitting or sediment bowl threads NO Tape.Nothing on the flared fuel line fittings.

Those are flare fittings. They seal on the flare. Do NOT use any tape. If you are putting the sediment bowl back in the tank, Gasoila is fine because it's a pipe thread. Just be careful with a steel line going into a brass fitting. See tip # 56.
75 Tips

TY...............

TY............................................

Why is there always 3 gaskets in a new carb assembly???

Why is there always 3 gaskets in a new carb assembly??

"Why is there always 3 gaskets in a new carb assembly??"

I'm not sure I understand what a "new carb assembly" is.
If you're talking about the rebuild kits, some of the cheap "basic"
kits fit multiple models and come with multiple gaskets to fit them.

Those kits basically only include gaskets, a needle and seat though,
so other than your cleaning while the carb is apart, the kit is unlikely
to fix any issue other than a needle/seat/cleaning problem.

I forgot to mention that I agree with the others.
Nothing on a flare fitting. The flare makes the seal.
Putting anything on the threads can hinder it's ability to do so.

The brass elbow is brass screwed into cast. It shouldn't need
anything either and it really shouldn't need to be much more
than hand tight to seal if the threads are clean and in good shape.

On the sediment bowl going into the tank, I use paste approved
for gas. Gasoila as mentioned or Harvey's.

(quoted from post at 14:58:41 05/25/19) Elbow, fittings, fuel line, sediment bowl??????????????
What is preferred??? Teflon Tape or Teflon Paste (Pipe Compound)????????????

Click to expand...

Flare fittings do not need sealer of any kind.

Contrary to popular opinion conventional taper pipe threads are not designed to be self sealing and use of a thread sealant compstible with the product being conveyed is recommended. PTFE tape or paste is suitable for most if not all automotive uses. Personally I prefer tape - neater and less mess.

TOH

(quoted from post at 20:54:21 05/25/19)

(quoted from post at 14:58:41 05/25/19) Elbow, fittings, fuel line, sediment bowl??????????????
What is preferred??? Teflon Tape or Teflon Paste (Pipe Compound)????????????

Click to expand...

Flare fittings do not need sealer of any kind.

Contrary to popular opinion conventional taper pipe threads are not designed to be self sealing and use of a thread sealant compstible with the product being conveyed is recommended. PTFE tape or paste is suitable for most if not all automotive uses. Personally I prefer tape - neater and less mess.

TOH

Click to expand...

"Contrary to popular opinion conventional taper pipe threads are not designed to be self sealing"

I agree with you here, but the brass elbow is not conventional taper pipe threads.
It is NPTF. It should not need sealer, especially being brass into cast.
In good shape, they will still seal even at finger tight.
A little sealer won't hurt here, paste or tape, as long as it's not too thick.

(quoted from post at 18:08:40 05/25/19)

(quoted from post at 20:54:21 05/25/19)

(quoted from post at 14:58:41 05/25/19) Elbow, fittings, fuel line, sediment bowl??????????????
What is preferred??? Teflon Tape or Teflon Paste (Pipe Compound)????????????

Click to expand...

Flare fittings do not need sealer of any kind.

Contrary to popular opinion conventional taper pipe threads are not designed to be self sealing and use of a thread sealant compstible with the product being conveyed is recommended. PTFE tape or paste is suitable for most if not all automotive uses. Personally I prefer tape - neater and less mess.

TOH

Click to expand...

"Contrary to popular opinion conventional taper pipe threads are not designed to be self sealing"

I agree with you here, but the brass elbow is not conventional taper pipe threads.
It is NPTF. It should not need sealer, especially being brass into cast.
In good shape, they will still seal even at finger tight.
A little sealer won't hurt here, paste or tape, as long as it's not too thick.

Click to expand...

Sorry for the intrusion, but since the thread is about sealants . . .

TOH,

If you can forgive me for growling at you a while back . . .
would TAPE be the best for the end plug in my GM brake master cylinder?

The new Wagner (Raybestos) kit has an aluminum washer.

I've used a pipe extension to loosen and tighten them in the past but have never used sealant. I always assumed that after 18 years of sitting the silicone fluid in the reservoir and barrel had leaked out the front end of the master.

But I filled it and got pedal on the first push. Not a trace of rust or corrosion anywhere inside, even though empty, after 40 years! Silicone brake fluid; I'm truly amazed; it's like the engines-on-propane longevity.

thanks,
Terry

NO! it has a sealing washer...

Silicone brake fluid if it makes ya happy use it on your old chit...

I stocked up on it when it was a fad I spec I will die with it setting on a shelf ... If you get one drop of water/moisture in it where it lays will rust the ell out of the part...

(quoted from post at 04:31:22 05/26/19)
NO! it has a sealing washer...

Silicone brake fluid if it makes ya happy use it on your old chit...

I stocked up on it when it was a fad I spec I will die with it setting on a shelf ... If you get one drop of water/moisture in it where it lays will rust the ell out of the part...

Click to expand...

Hobo, If I give you my address would you send me your silicone brake fluid?


From Moss Motoring:



Water contamination also leads to corrosion of brake pipes, wheel cylinders, calipers, and master cylinders, resulting in pipe leaks, "frozen" cylinder pistons, accelerated seal wear, and the formation of sludge. Silicone fluids avoid these problems by being non-hygroscopic (not moisture-absorbing), while glycol fluids can absorb as much as 6% water just by being in a "sealed" automotive hydraulic system for a few years. This moisture is generally absorbed from the air. Some moisture even works its way into brake hoses. Most comes from master cylinder cap vents and resultant condensation in the air space above the fluid, and from allowing cans of brake fluid and master cylinders to remain open to the atmosphere for too long. Silicone fluids absorb a tiny amount of moisture (on the order of 280 parts per million, or .0028%) and then absorb no more.



I just installed Silicone in my '67 Datsun roadster project yesterday.



Another bonus is that it doesn't eat your paint.

Some brake parts re-builders void the warranty if that chit is used so I try and stay away from it unless its a request I cannot talk them out of...

It also lacks in performance BTDT heat is a killer and it don't take much heat...

Best practice is to flush BF from time to time... I am a big fan of dot 4

(quoted from post at 05:31:11 05/26/19)

(quoted from post at 04:31:22 05/26/19)
NO! it has a sealing washer...

Silicone brake fluid if it makes ya happy use it on your old chit...

I stocked up on it when it was a fad I spec I will die with it setting on a shelf ... If you get one drop of water/moisture in it where it lays will rust the ell out of the part...

Click to expand...

Hobo, If I give you my address would you send me your silicone brake fluid?


From Moss Motoring:



Water contamination also leads to corrosion of brake pipes, wheel cylinders, calipers, and master cylinders, resulting in pipe leaks, "frozen" cylinder pistons, accelerated seal wear, and the formation of sludge. Silicone fluids avoid these problems by being non-hygroscopic (not moisture-absorbing), while glycol fluids can absorb as much as 6% water just by being in a "sealed" automotive hydraulic system for a few years. This moisture is generally absorbed from the air. Some moisture even works its way into brake hoses. Most comes from master cylinder cap vents and resultant condensation in the air space above the fluid, and from allowing cans of brake fluid and master cylinders to remain open to the atmosphere for too long. Silicone fluids absorb a tiny amount of moisture (on the order of 280 parts per million, or .0028%) and then absorb no more.

I just installed Silicone in my '67 Datsun roadster project yesterday.

Another bonus is that it doesn't eat your paint.

Click to expand...

There's a big difference between a fad and something whose time has come.

Thirty eight years ago, I stripped the brake system of my 1951 Chev van when I was first building up the truck. The first ever silicone fluid I had spotted and read the pamphlet of was Cartel brand. A quart was $50. but I thought that if the writeup was only half true it was worth a shot and that the time to do it was when everything was bone dry and every cylinder honed and polished.

So I drove it for ten years, parked it for five or so, drove it again and finally parked it for the last 18 years. I swear that I have never rebuilt the master or any wheel cylinder since the initial silicone installation and I still have good braking!

So now that the truck is up and running again, I thought I should install some new kits starting with the master, so I took the master off last fall. Even though the master reservoir was empty, the silicone did such an incredible job of coating the metal that there wasn't a trace of corrosion inside the reservoir or the bore or on the internal parts. the oly thing i've done was to use some fine steel wool to remove a stain left where the retaining washer at the push rod comes to rest, but I'm not even going to have to dress the main bore. I've rebuilt a few of these masters over time and each time it was a toss up as to whether the bore was too pitted to bother with or if I could hone it back to life. Well as these photos show, the condition of my master is nothing short of amazing. The fact that it is next to non-miscible with moisture, and a lubricant, and a metal-coating protector, and provides better braking action are its strong points. The bore is uniformly shiny and perfectly smooth.
I haven't cleaned up a thing except the exterior.

(quoted from post at 21:08:40 05/25/19)

(quoted from post at 20:54:21 05/25/19)

(quoted from post at 14:58:41 05/25/19) Elbow, fittings, fuel line, sediment bowl??????????????
What is preferred??? Teflon Tape or Teflon Paste (Pipe Compound)????????????

Click to expand...

Flare fittings do not need sealer of any kind.

Contrary to popular opinion conventional taper pipe threads are not designed to be self sealing and use of a thread sealant compstible with the product being conveyed is recommended. PTFE tape or paste is suitable for most if not all automotive uses. Personally I prefer tape - neater and less mess.

TOH

Click to expand...

"Contrary to popular opinion conventional taper pipe threads are not designed to be self sealing"

I agree with you here, but the brass elbow is not conventional taper pipe threads.
It is NPTF. It should not need sealer, especially being brass into cast.
In good shape, they will still seal even at finger tight.
A little sealer won't hurt here, paste or tape, as long as it's not too thick.

Click to expand...

Both male and female threads need to be NPTF to be self sealing. Without some sophisticated gaging I have no idea what an aftermarket fitting might actually be or what the original thread specification for the float bowl might be. So I agree, a little PTFE sealant is cheap insurance.

TOH

(quoted from post at 12:49:02 05/26/19)
Some brake parts re-builders void the warranty if that chit is used so I try and stay away from it unless its a request I cannot talk them out of...

It also lacks in performance BTDT heat is a killer and it don't take much heat...

Best practice is to flush BF from time to time... I am a big fan of dot 4

Click to expand...

I am confused about that heat thing. I was under the impression DOT 5 silicon fluid was specifically designed for use in high temperature applications because DOT 4 was not up to the job. The down side was the hydrophopic nature of the fluid could result in pooling of water in the lines which would boil at 212F. As long as you did regular flushes the water separation issue was not a problem and the road racers loved it. The real killer for modern production vehicles was it is more compressible than DOT 4 making it incompatible with most ABS systems.

The latest generation brake fluid is DOT 5.1 which is a low viscosity glycol rather than silicon based formulation. The glycol base mediates some of the undesirable side effects of DOT 5 silicon fluid (e.g. incompatibility with ABS systems and seal swell), it doesn't repel water eliminating the separation and boiling issue, and it has a dry and wet boiling point higher still than DOT 5. The low viscosity property also makes it a superior performer in cold weather - especially in ABS systems. It is the new favorite of the high performance road car crowd.

TOH

It grows under heat... I have had to remove it and go back to dot 3/4 to solve the issue...

TY

In a perfect world I would agree with you Bruce, but with some of this cheena made junk, I found it necessary to use an o-ring on the flared fittings to get a seal, the sediment bowl flare did not seem to match the fuel line flare and with an o-ring it sealed with a little more than hand tight, has not given me a problem in 2 years (so far)!

(quoted from post at 10:50:58 05/28/19) In a perfect world I would agree with you Bruce, but with some of this cheena made junk, I found it necessary to use an o-ring on the flared fittings to get a seal, the sediment bowl flare did not seem to match the fuel line flare and with an o-ring it sealed with a little more than hand tight, has not given me a problem in 2 years (so far)!

Click to expand...

Grinderhead, if you ever get nervous about that O-ring Try a little grease between the two sealing surfaces. A long time plumber taught me that trick. It allows the two sides to shift a little past each other as you tighten so that you can get it a little tighter.

(quoted from post at 23:50:58 05/28/19) In a perfect world I would agree with you Bruce, but with some of this cheena made junk, I found it necessary to use an o-ring on the flared fittings to get a seal, the sediment bowl flare did not seem to match the fuel line flare and with an o-ring it sealed with a little more than hand tight, has not given me a problem in 2 years (so far)!

Click to expand...

I have never had to resort to the o-ring trick BUT Ford does use it on some transmission cooler line connections at the radiator...

I have never second guessed it they do use a non standard line nut for that application...

GM picked up on it also why its used at the radiator cooler transmission/engine oil cooler lines at the radiator I dunno... It does work tho...

(quoted from post at 21:48:02 05/28/19)

(quoted from post at 23:50:58 05/28/19) In a perfect world I would agree with you Bruce, but with some of this cheena made junk, I found it necessary to use an o-ring on the flared fittings to get a seal, the sediment bowl flare did not seem to match the fuel line flare and with an o-ring it sealed with a little more than hand tight, has not given me a problem in 2 years (so far)!

Click to expand...

I have never had to resort to the o-ring trick BUT Ford does use it on some transmission cooler line connections at the radiator...

I have never second guessed it they do use a non standard line nut for that application...

GM picked up on it also why its used at the radiator cooler transmission/engine oil cooler lines at the radiator I dunno... It does work tho...

Click to expand...

There are a lot of variations on the "standard" metal to metal flare. Parker among others makes JIC flare fittings (see photo of competitor's Flare-O fitting) with a groove on the end for an additional elastomeric (oring) seal. It works with a standard 37 degree flare and tube nut and produces a combination of metal to metal and properly compressed o-ring seal. Personally I wouldn't be tempted to just stick an oring in the middle of a flare connection that did not have a groove for the oring. You can't fully tighten the fittings without damaging/destroying the o-ring. If the connection is leaking I would fix the leak using the proper fittings.

TOH

Took a bit to run across this again these are the fittings from a 1987 for f150 auto transmissions lines to radiator with the o-ring...