Help with Solenoid on 8n

DaytonTN

New User
AFter sitting all winter tractor would not turn over. Could be battery or wiring, but not my question.

I was cleaning the wires and broke stud on solenoid while taking off the nut. this was a 4 post solenoid with only battery cables and one wire going from small post to keyed ignision (push button disabled way before i got owned this tractor)

I purchased a new Solenoid, but it is the 3 post, with the small post being the 'I' post. I know i open up a tough question with as many different ways people have wired and got these tractors to work over the years.

Should it work? What is a simple method to verify that it should work? (was not hearing the plunger from the old solenoid anyways)

Thanks for any friendly advice you can offer.

PS. i am not mechanically inclined but i do like to try and fix things.
 

12V, front mount distributer. 4 post keyed ignition switch. yellow wire goes straight from keyed ignition to solenoid small post.
 
Most likely, your old solenoid was not like OEM solenoid. OEM was activated by neutral safety start switch supplying ground to small solenoid post, whereas your 4 poster was operated by supplying power to small post.
 
mvphoto36581.jpg

old solenoid[/img]
 
So more than likely by changing to keyed ignition in the past. using this new standard 3 post solenoid will not work.
 
All the solenoid does is pull in the contacts to give a path for the battery cable on one side to transfer current to the other side.Take the yellow wire in your
picture and attach it to the new solenoid,put a ground wire on the base of the solenoid to the engine to ground it and turn the key to the start position.If you
here it click (you could check with a meter for continuity)you are good to go.Most of the four post solenoids where also used for a lower voltage in the run mode
to get longer point life on early Ford cars,no reason it won't work.
 
factory solenoid is activated with ground by the pushbutton switch near the shifter. The reason for this is so it has a neutral safety to prevent anyone from engaging the starter while it's in gear and running themselves or someone else over. I know you'll never do it but for some reason it does happen. Fix the factory switch and wire it there.
 
(quoted from post at 17:22:38 05/24/19) So more than likely by changing to keyed ignition in the past. using this new standard 3 post solenoid will not work.
rue
 
(quoted from post at 16:06:54 05/24/19) AFter sitting all winter tractor would not turn over. Could be battery or wiring, but not my question.

I was cleaning the wires and broke stud on solenoid while taking off the nut. this was a 4 post solenoid with only battery cables and one wire going from small post to keyed ignision (push button disabled way before i got owned this tractor)

I purchased a new Solenoid, but it is the 3 post, with the small post being the 'I' post. I know i open up a tough question with as many different ways people have wired and got these tractors to work over the years.

Should it work? What is a simple method to verify that it should work? (was not hearing the plunger from the old solenoid anyways)

Thanks for any friendly advice you can offer.

PS. i am not mechanically inclined but i do like to try and fix things.

What is the make and part # of the new solenoid?

If you actually bought the "correct" OEM-style emplacement solenoid for this rather unique application, it will not work as the tractor is now wired.

However, if you got a more common "universal-type" 3-terminal starter solenoid, it should work with your keyed ignition switch.

Tell us whut'cha got!
 
Dayton,Get the correct 3-terminal starter solenoid,hook it up to your neutral thumb switch,proper solenoid and working safety starter button.Then you might consider the correct ignition switch,problems solved.I know that your key switch works,but why not put it back like it should be.
 

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