9N Radiator Cap Stuck

I just started my 1941 9N project tractor and trying to take the good off, but the radiator top is stuck against the dented hood. I was able to move it 45-degrees counterclockwise, but not sure far I need to go in order for the tab/notch to line up. Any tips on its removal?
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CCW is correct, 90 degrees is correct. It should come off at that point. Wiggle it, jiggle it, pry up on it with something.
 
Something feels loose beneath it, so it's not cooperating. Now that I know it's at 90 degrees, I will focus the removal at that location. May need to go underneath and clamp something down. Thanks!
 
I've been taking my radiator cap off rather frequently in the last couple of weeks and I'm thinking it needs to rotate more than 90 degrees. (90 degrees just gets you to that little bump that I've always thought was a safety if you turned it when the water was hot and it kept it from spinning off and throwing the water up in your face?) SOOO I went and stole some pictures off Epay and if you look at the pictures I think it'll prove it needs to turn more than 90 degrees. At the very end or the last 20-30 or so degrees you'll have to push it down past the safety bump.....


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(quoted from post at 10:13:43 04/24/19) I've been taking my radiator cap off rather frequently in the last couple of weeks and I'm thinking it needs to rotate more than 90 degrees. (90 degrees just gets you to that little bump that I've always thought was a safety if you turned it when the water was hot and it kept it from spinning off and throwing the water up in your face?) SOOO I went and stole some pictures off Epay and if you look at the pictures I think it'll prove it needs to turn more than 90 degrees. At the very end or the last 20-30 or so degrees you'll have to push it down past the safety bump.....


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nless it has been swapped , his 1941 would have an entirely different radiator neck and cap design than the ones you have pictured. Non-pressure (1939 to 1941) vs pressurized (1942 & up).
 
(quoted from post at 08:52:07 04/24/19)
(quoted from post at 10:13:43 04/24/19) I've been taking my radiator cap off rather frequently in the last couple of weeks and I'm thinking it needs to rotate more than 90 degrees. (90 degrees just gets you to that little bump that I've always thought was a safety if you turned it when the water was hot and it kept it from spinning off and throwing the water up in your face?) SOOO I went and stole some pictures off Epay and if you look at the pictures I think it'll prove it needs to turn more than 90 degrees. At the very end or the last 20-30 or so degrees you'll have to push it down past the safety bump.....


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nless it has been swapped , his 1941 would have an entirely different radiator neck and cap design than the ones you have pictured. Non-pressure (1939 to 1941) vs pressurized (1942 & up).

AHH My mistake I made the assumption they would all be the same.
 
Thanks everyone, I will see if I can find a photo of the original 9N latch line-up. Since it's most likely not pressurized, there's no point to push it down, but to simply screw off? It's a matter of how far I need to turn. Gave it another try last night at 90-deg CCW, no luck and it wouldn't turn more. Would I be able to remove the side panels without removing the hood? That would give me more room to work underneath the area. Again, it is my understanding that the hood could not be removed without removing the radiator cap first.
 
(quoted from post at 18:45:35 04/24/19) Thanks everyone, I will see if I can find a photo of the original 9N latch line-up. Since it's most likely not pressurized, there's no point to push it down, but to simply screw off? It's a matter of how far I need to turn. Gave it another try last night at 90-deg CCW, no luck and it wouldn't turn more. Would I be able to remove the side panels without removing the hood? That would give me more room to work underneath the area. Again, it is my understanding that the hood could not be removed without removing the radiator cap first.

One might wonder if the underlying cap is turning with the too cover....

TOH
 
You should see this once the cap is off. If I remember correctly there is a square nub between the chrome cap and the inner part. I'd say TOH is correct - the screw is loose or the square nub is rounded off.


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(quoted from post at 17:39:12 04/24/19) You should see this once the cap is off. If I remember correctly there is a square nub between the chrome cap and the inner part. I'd say TOH is correct - the screw is loose or the square nub is rounded off.


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Racing stripes on an N :D
 
I m starting to realize something beneath the cap is loose and won t cooperate. Is it possible to remove the front side panel without removing the hood first?
 
(quoted from post at 13:53:36 04/25/19) I m starting to realize something beneath the cap is loose and won t cooperate. Is it possible to remove the front side panel without removing the hood first?

Unless you are dead set on re-using that cap I'd be thinking about cutting it off.

TOH
 
(quoted from post at 14:33:25 04/25/19)
(quoted from post at 13:53:36 04/25/19) I m starting to realize something beneath the cap is loose and won t cooperate. Is it possible to remove the front side panel without removing the hood first?

Unless you are dead set on re-using that cap I'd be thinking about cutting it off.

TOH
aybe just drill a small hole thru top and into inner part and pin together so inner can be turned.
 
(quoted from post at 14:41:38 04/25/19)
(quoted from post at 14:33:25 04/25/19)
(quoted from post at 13:53:36 04/25/19) I m starting to realize something beneath the cap is loose and won t cooperate. Is it possible to remove the front side panel without removing the hood first?

Unless you are dead set on re-using that cap I'd be thinking about cutting it off.

TOH
aybe just drill a small hole thru top and into inner part and pin together so inner can be turned.

Thinking outside the box. That's why they pay you the big bucks :p

TOH
 
(quoted from post at 14:48:20 04/25/19)
(quoted from post at 14:41:38 04/25/19)
(quoted from post at 14:33:25 04/25/19)
(quoted from post at 13:53:36 04/25/19) I m starting to realize something beneath the cap is loose and won t cooperate. Is it possible to remove the front side panel without removing the hood first?

Unless you are dead set on re-using that cap I'd be thinking about cutting it off.

TOH
aybe just drill a small hole thru top and into inner part and pin together so inner can be turned.

Thinking outside the box. That's why they pay you the big bucks :p

TOH
guess I'm short on entertainment to be so easily entertained by 5 days guessing about 'blue' sparks and 3 days trying to remove a radiator cap. I do realize that it is always easier too talk about a problem than to fix one. In 3 to 5 days I would have fixed or destroyed whatever it was!
 
(quoted from post at 16:16:14 04/25/19) So I take it that it s not possible to remove the side panel without first removing the hood?

With persistence I am sure you can. You could even take the hood, side panels, and and radiator off as a unit. I don't see either gaining you much.

TOH
 
(quoted from post at 16:16:14 04/25/19) So I take it that it s not possible to remove the side panel without first removing the hood?
see no way to access the dog-leg to hood bolts, given the location of bolts, radiator, and gas tank. I say, no.
 
(quoted from post at 05:58:39 04/23/19) I just started my 1941 9N project tractor and trying to take the good off, but the radiator top is stuck against the dented hood. I was able to move it 45-degrees counterclockwise, but not sure far I need to go in order for the tab/notch to line up. Any tips on its removal?
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i, 9887:
The dog legs or side panels can be removed with the radiator and hood still on tractor, but you will not enjoy it. Drain gas tank to reduce weight, loosen screws/bolts at dash panel, remove bolts at bottom of doglegs, remove radiator attaching bolts at bracket at bottom. you may wish to remove fan and pulley from water pump, but this may not be much help. If the radiator's fan shroud is still on this tractor, it will be in the way, but the screws are not accessible since the doglegs are in the way. You will need to remove [u:8f3160558c]a few screws that attach the dog legs to the main hood. These are the key to the project;[/u:8f3160558c] hard to see and nearly impossible to unscrew while radiator is still there. You may need all your 1/4 inch drive extensions, flex joints and so on. Good luck!

Dennis M. in W. Tenn.
 
(quoted from post at 17:38:33 04/25/19) These 4?
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Nope. If it is a 41 it should have smooth doglegs and the bottom is secured with self tapping screws. The top tank on the unpressurized radiator will hang out on the back side ant there is no shroud. Still going to be a bitc* to get the top bolts out with the hood on the tractor.

If it is a pressurized radiator a new cap is an $8 item and I would have the old one off and in pieces on the bench next to the angle grinder and cutoff wheel in about 10 minutes...

TOH
 
(quoted from post at 18:02:46 04/25/19)
(quoted from post at 17:38:33 04/25/19) These 4?
hp7L0cG.jpg

lWfh0PL.jpg

Nope. If it is a 41 it should have smooth doglegs and the bottom is secured with self tapping screws. The top tank on the unpressurized radiator will hang out on the back side ant there is no shroud. Still going to be a bitc* to get the top bolts out with the hood on the tractor.

If it is a pressurized radiator a new cap is an $8 item and I would have the old one off and in pieces on the bench next to the angle grinder and cutoff wheel in about 10 minutes...

TOH
agree & add, how does that solve the problem when & if dog-legs are removed and hood remains stuck between radiator & cap?
 
(quoted from post at 22:56:30 04/24/19)
(quoted from post at 17:39:12 04/24/19) You should see this once the cap is off. If I remember correctly there is a square nub between the chrome cap and the inner part. I'd say TOH is correct - the screw is loose or the square nub is rounded off.


mvphoto35038.jpg

Racing stripes on an N :D

Oh yeah, the stripes double the top speed. :D
 
Unusual paint job, could you please post a photo of the entire tractor?

By looking at your photo, if that is an unpressurized radiator like I have, with the radiator hole having the notches at 4:00 and 10:00, and the cap having the notches at 3:00 and 9:00, then you d either move it 45-degrees clockwise for them to line up or 135-degrees (90+45) counterclockwise. Your cap is a bit different than mine.

Btw, no I am have not been struggling for 5 days, haha. I haven t started working on the tractor yet. I come home after work, jingled the radiator cap, when it didn t come off, I do a bit more research. The cap seems original and feels like steel, I don t want to cut it off and replace it with something else.

I guess you all are tired of this discussion haha! I m sure I ll find a way when I can finally focus on it next week.
 
(quoted from post at 22:13:20 04/25/19) Unusual paint job, could you please post a photo of the entire tractor?

By looking at your photo, if that is an unpressurized radiator like I have, with the radiator hole having the notches at 4:00 and 10:00, and the cap having the notches at 3:00 and 9:00, then you d either move it 45-degrees clockwise for them to line up or 135-degrees (90+45) counterclockwise. Your cap is a bit different than mine.

Btw, no I am have not been struggling for 5 days, haha. I haven t started working on the tractor yet. I come home after work, jingled the radiator cap, when it didn t come off, I do a bit more research. The cap seems original and feels like steel, I don t want to cut it off and replace it with something else.

I guess you all are tired of this discussion haha! I m sure I ll find a way when I can finally focus on it next week.

Unusual is a great description of both the paint job and my former neighbor that did it.

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Mine is definitely the unpressurized cap. I couldn't find a new one so I took mine apart and made a new gasket to fit. The gasket provides some friction to keep the cap from loosening and keeps the coolant from sloshing out.
 

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