9n no spark

Fireman193

New User
So i changed out my point and new coil tbey were old and wore out. Now i have no spark i have it narrowd down. I have power to the point as long as the distributor is not attached to the block as soon as put the distributor back on the tractor power stops at the top of the coil and wont go into the distributor. Any ideas
Thanks
 
After you set the points & timing, do a continuity check before you put the distributor back on the tractor. Do not skip this step! Before you start, make sure
your meter/light works.

With the distributor still off the tractor, follow these steps:

1. Coil off, cap off, points open. One probe on the brass screw & the other on both sides of the open points. On the side closest to the cam, you should have
continuity. Not on the other side! If you do, you will also have continuity everywhere because the points are grounded.

2. Coil off, cap off, points open. One probe on the brass screw & the other anywhere on the body of the distributor. You should have no continuity! Now, rotate
the tang on the distributor....as the points open & close, you have continuity (closed) and lose it when they open.

3. Put the coil on the distributor, cap off, points open. One probe on the lead on the top of the coil, the other on the cam side of the open points. You should
have continuity!

4. Coil on, cap off, points open. One probe on the lead on the top of the coil, the other anywhere on the body of the distributor. You should have no
continuity!

At this point, I just put the distributor, coil & cap all back on the tractor as a unit. The reason I do this is because it is real easy to get the cap or coil
misaligned trying to put it back together, one piece at a time. The result is something gets broken or you get a no spark problem.
75 Tips
 
Did you set the point gap at .015? and time the unit? Did you replace the condenser, cap, rotor, and plugs too? Is the firing order correct -1, 2, 4, 3? Is your setup the OEM 6V/POS GRN or a 12V/NEG GRN change out? Just replacing parts ?because they looked old and worn out" is not a logical approach. Without testing to determine if good or bad, you are just guessing. Was the tractor running before you started replacing parts? Performing a tune-up is okay especially if you don?t know when it was last done, but you need to know what you are doing. Most non-starting issues are due to incorrect wiring. Finally, do you have the essential manuals?

FORD 9N/2N TRACTOR ESSENTIAL OWNER/OPERATOR/PARTS/SERVICE MANUALS:
<a href="https://imgur.com/i2gbSeo">
i2gbSeoh.jpg" title="source: imgur.com"
</a>​

FORD TRACTOR FRONT MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR TIMING PROCEDURE:
<a href="https://imgur.com/nM5tfJN">
nM5tfJNh.jpg" title="source: imgur.com"
</a>​

FRONT MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR BREAKER POINTS AND INTERNAL PARTS:
<a href="https://imgur.com/OcIturk">
OcIturkh.jpg" title="source: imgur.com"
</a>​


FORD TRACTOR FIRING ORDER CCW; 1,2,4,3:
<a href="https://imgur.com/Tbt5WvE">
Tbt5WvEh.jpg" title="source: imgur.com"
</a>​


9N/2N OEM WIRING DIAGRAMS:
<a href="https://imgur.com/iP09xMV">
iP09xMVh.jpg" title="source: imgur.com"
</a>​

<a href="https://imgur.com/CJedLEc">
CJedLEch.jpg" title="source: imgur.com"
</a>​

<a href="https://imgur.com/SGwwM6t">
SGwwM6th.jpg" title="source: imgur.com"
</a>​


Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)
 

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