(800) 853-2651
SHOP NOW

OT McCulloch Chain Saw

C

Caryc

Well-known Member
I have a McCulloch 16" 160S chain saw that has always worked well for me. It's kept in it's own case in my storage shed. I took it out yesterday to use it and it's like it's jammed up or something. I can't turn it over by pulling the starter rope. However if I remove the spark plug, it turns over fine by the starter rope. Put the plug back in and again can't turn it over with the starter rope.

All screens and filters are clean. The last time I used it, it worked fine. That was around three years ago. So what happened to it just sitting there in it's case?

Anyway, I was checking on a new saw. Does McCulloch not make chain saws anymore?

What would be a good 16" gas powered saw for me now?
 

Should have added this. I checked on a 16" Huskvarna saw and read some reviews on it. A lot of reviews said it was hard to start. Anyone know anything about Huskvarna saws.
 
If buying a new saw look at Echos. I have
had one 20+ years. It has cut many chords
of wood, never failed to start. Runs great
on e1o. The original spark plug was
removed last fall.
 
(quoted from post at 12:31:53 02/13/19) Compression release stuck????
Click to expand...

Don't know anything about any compression release. The only thing I can think of is the chain brake. That is off, and working. I can turn the chain by hand.
 
pour some AFT in the spark plug hole and let it set for a few day and then try again. exhaust reed frozen?
I like and Use Stihl saws.
 
(quoted from post at 12:45:09 02/13/19) pour some AFT in the spark plug hole and let it set for a few day and then try again. exhaust reed frozen?
I like and Use Stihl saws.
Click to expand...

Exhaust reed ?
 
(quoted from post at 14:12:53 02/13/19)
(quoted from post at 12:45:09 02/13/19) pour some AFT in the spark plug hole and let it set for a few day and then try again. exhaust reed frozen?
I like and Use Stihl saws.
Click to expand...

Exhaust reed ?
Click to expand...
OK no exhaust reed, but something is stopping it from rotating with the plug installed. If the piston is not hitting the plug I would be removing the muffler assy. maybe mud daubers have built a nest in there. something is compression locking it.
 
Reeds are on the intake if it has them.

The clue is you can crank it with the plug out. Maybe pull off the air cleaner and see if something is in the intake? That, or the exhaust is clogged with something?

Husky makes a good saw. I have one of their 455 Ranchers that has cut many a cord of wood. It starts easily every time IF you follow the starting procedure.
 
(quoted from post at 14:12:53 02/13/19)
(quoted from post at 12:45:09 02/13/19) pour some AFT in the spark plug hole and let it set for a few day and then try again. exhaust reed frozen?
I like and Use Stihl saws.
Click to expand...

Exhaust reed ?
Click to expand...
b:66682e377f][i:66682e377f]
Cary;
I have two older McCulloch Saws. 1 is a 14" blade...the other is a 20"
Both saws have done that, and I found the exhaust..(fire retardent screen) plugs up, especially if they are run for long periods of time, with too rich of oil/fuel mixed.
Those screens should be at the back of the engine....held in place with two small screws.
Bet you will find the screen is blocked with fuel deposits!!!???
Wire brush, on a dremal tool, is yer friend. :lol:
YMMV... :shock:

Gary :wink: [/i:66682e377f][/b:66682e377f]
 
I have a Husky 445 just 3 or 4 hits on the primer button, choke on and it starts fine on second pull, my Stihl MS250 always sputters on the 5th choked pull and starts next pull, the dealer told me when I bought it to pull it with the choke on until it sputters then take off the the choke and start, don't pull it again with the choke on though or it floods. I have a small Jonsereds that takes 93 octain or higher use the primer button and choke it and it starts 1st or second pull. I have a 40 yr old Echo that always started fine but it is to heavy for me now, it was considered a light saw in its day I haven't tried it in a few yrs. BTW since one saw takes high test I run all of them on it.
 
Another BTW all start back up first pull after warmed up and been running for a while. My first saw was a used Remington,around 1970 or so , now that saw was heavy and hard starting, it was like a dream when I bought the the Echo in 74.
 
"A lot of reviews said it was hard to start."

Mine is. No adjustments to the carbs on newer two stroke engines.
 
(quoted from post at 15:31:24 02/13/19)
Should have added this. I checked on a 16" Huskvarna saw and read some reviews on it. A lot of reviews said it was hard to start. Anyone know anything about Huskvarna saws.
Click to expand...

Husky's are good saws and finicky but not hard to start. You have to follow the starting instructions [u:6a78fc95d5]exactly[/u:6a78fc95d5]. And even then each seems to have it's own little idiosyncrasies. I have several including a 455 Rancher and like them all but they all start slightly differently.

I just bought a 372XP last year for felling and bucking a lot of good size standing white ash that has been decimated by emerald ash borer. It is a big saw with a 36" bar - decompress valve but no primer for starting. The first time I tried to start it I worked my butt off with no success. Instructions said to decompress, choke, and pull until it fired. Then remove the choke and pull again. I thought I was following those instructions but with a little experience I realized the first fire is so weak I didn't even recognize it. Another pull with the choke on will flood it and you are doomed until you dry the plug.

Once I got that first fire thing identified it starts on the 2nd or 3rd pull and eats wood like no saw I have ever owned including my old Mac 3.5 Eager Beaver. Great power to weight ratio and a superior vibration damping system both of which the Mac definitely lacked :roll: I also discovered that it will start easier if I don't decompress. It pulls a lot harder but that first fire is more pronounced. Once it is warmed up it will restart without choke or decompress with one drop start pull.

I also have a small Echo (CS361) that I bought 3-4 years ago. I have had great luck with other Echo power equipment but this saw is definitely under powered and with a 16" bar has to be nursed along in anything but the smallest of limbs. Maybe the larger ones are better.

TOH
 

Strong supporter of Stihl. All the professional guys here use them exclusively. Just clean 'em good after each use, and it will last you another 20. Take the shield off the clutch and blow all the saw dust out. Stabilizer is fuel, and will start up after a pull or two every time.
 
(quoted from post at 18:14:38 02/13/19)
Strong supporter of Stihl. All the professional guys here use them exclusively. Just clean 'em good after each use, and it will last you another 20. Take the shield off the clutch and blow all the saw dust out. Stabilizer is fuel, and will start up after a pull or two every time.
Click to expand...

The first thing I did was to take both side shields off and clean everything. All the filters and the clutch are clean.
 

i'm happy with my stihl. i looked at echo, but they were nearly twice what i paid. i got the smallest bar they put on that powerhead, a 16".
 
(quoted from post at 13:26:53 02/13/19)
(quoted from post at 14:12:53 02/13/19)
(quoted from post at 12:45:09 02/13/19) pour some AFT in the spark plug hole and let it set for a few day and then try again. exhaust reed frozen?
I like and Use Stihl saws.
Click to expand...

Exhaust reed ?
Click to expand...
b:8b1b5bd132][i:8b1b5bd132]
Cary;
I have two older McCulloch Saws. 1 is a 14" blade...the other is a 20"
Both saws have done that, and I found the exhaust..(fire retardent screen) plugs up, especially if they are run for long periods of time, with too rich of oil/fuel mixed.
Those screens should be at the back of the engine....held in place with two small screws.
Bet you will find the screen is blocked with fuel deposits!!!???
Wire brush, on a dremal tool, is yer friend. :lol:
YMMV... :shock:

Gary :wink: [/i:8b1b5bd132][/b:8b1b5bd132]
Click to expand...

GB, I did clean that screen when I cleaned everything else. I'm about to give up on it. For what it will cost to have someone fix it, I might as well just buy a new saw. For the very little use the the mac had over 10 or so years, I might just as well buy an electric saw. I don't really foresee any need for a chain saw anyway. That mac saw was one of those tools that I was glad to have in my storage shed just in case the need for one pops up.

I also tried the transmission fluid. Didn't do any good.

Can someone recommend what I should look for in an electric saw?
 
GB, I did clean that screen when I cleaned everything else. I'm about to give up on it. For what it will cost to have someone fix it, I might as well just buy a new saw. For the very little use the the mac had over 10 or so years, I might just as well buy an electric saw. I don't really foresee any need for a chain saw anyway. That mac saw was one of those tools that I was glad to have in my storage shed just in case the need for one pops up.

I also tried the transmission fluid. Didn't do any good.

Can someone recommend what I should look for in an electric saw?
Click to expand...
If you think of an engine as an air pump something has to be clogging it up. The muffler assembly should be removable. I'd try taking it off and see if that is the problem.

My old neighbor had an electric saw and it was sad. Just sayin'. :)
 
I have followed this post - interesting problem. You state it pulls through fine with the plug out but locks up with the plug in. Is it locking up at
TDC? If so did someone put another spark plug in it for (storage etc.) that is too long and interferes with the piston? Does the plug have a gasket at
the base or has it been lost? Might try un-threading the plug several turns and see if that eliminates the lock up.

To your question on electric chain saws. I have a small one I bought to trim apple trees. The chain speed is very slow, as a result the cutters tear
at the wood giving a ragged cut. The whole time the chain saw is bouncing back and forth against the tree/limb. The chain speed should be similar to
that of a gas saw. In addition, my electric saw had what I call a cheap chain, the cutters were space several links apart. Perhaps to save money on
cutters....? I replaced the chain with another, only one link between the cutters, still tears at the wood. One time use quickie job maybe - I will
make you a smoking deal on mine.
 
(quoted from post at 07:36:22 02/14/19)
GB, I did clean that screen when I cleaned everything else. I'm about to give up on it. For what it will cost to have someone fix it, I might as well just buy a new saw. For the very little use the the mac had over 10 or so years, I might just as well buy an electric saw. I don't really foresee any need for a chain saw anyway. That mac saw was one of those tools that I was glad to have in my storage shed just in case the need for one pops up.

I also tried the transmission fluid. Didn't do any good.

Can someone recommend what I should look for in an electric saw?
Click to expand...
If you think of an engine as an air pump something has to be clogging it up. The muffler assembly should be removable. I'd try taking it off and see if that is the problem.

My old neighbor had an electric saw and it was sad. Just sayin'. :)
Click to expand...

How many times do I have to say I cleaned everything. Once again, I cleaned the muffler screen and the muffler assembly is clean. With the muffler off, I can see the piston moving up and down and it still won't turn over with the starter rope.

I can put a socket on the clutch assembly nut and turn it over but it still turns hard. It will turn over that way but not with the starter rope. I have removed the starter rope assembly and it is fine. The rope pulls all the way out and the return spring is fine. I don't know what more I can do.
 
(quoted from post at 08:43:33 02/14/19) I have followed this post - interesting problem. You state it pulls through fine with the plug out but locks up with the plug in. Is it locking up at
TDC? If so did someone put another spark plug in it for (storage etc.) that is too long and interferes with the piston? Does the plug have a gasket at
the base or has it been lost? Might try un-threading the plug several turns and see if that eliminates the lock up.

To your question on electric chain saws. I have a small one I bought to trim apple trees. The chain speed is very slow, as a result the cutters tear
at the wood giving a ragged cut. The whole time the chain saw is bouncing back and forth against the tree/limb. The chain speed should be similar to
that of a gas saw. In addition, my electric saw had what I call a cheap chain, the cutters were space several links apart. Perhaps to save money on
cutters....? I replaced the chain with another, only one link between the cutters, still tears at the wood. One time use quickie job maybe - I will
make you a smoking deal on mine.
Click to expand...

It has the original plug in it. If I unscrew the plug a turn or two, I can turn it over with the starter rope. As I said, it ran fine the last time I used it and put it back in it's case in my storage shed.
 
(quoted from post at 07:36:22 02/14/19)
GB, I did clean that screen when I cleaned everything else. I'm about to give up on it. For what it will cost to have someone fix it, I might as well just buy a new saw. For the very little use the the mac had over 10 or so years, I might just as well buy an electric saw. I don't really foresee any need for a chain saw anyway. That mac saw was one of those tools that I was glad to have in my storage shed just in case the need for one pops up.

I also tried the transmission fluid. Didn't do any good.

Can someone recommend what I should look for in an electric saw?
Click to expand...
If you think of an engine as an air pump something has to be clogging it up. The muffler assembly should be removable. I'd try taking it off and see if that is the problem.

My old neighbor had an electric saw and it was sad. Just sayin'. :)
Click to expand...

HD,
I just read my previous answer to your post and it sounded a bit snarky. I assure you that I didn't mean it that way.

Thanks all you guys for trying to help.
 
HD,
I just read my previous answer to your post and it sounded a bit snarky. I assure you that I didn't mean it that way.

Thanks all you guys for trying to help.
Click to expand...
I cried.

:lol:

Just kidding! No offense taken - I understand your frustration. It's a really weird situation. It sounds like something is causing binding between the piston and plug. How does the plug look? Is the electrode pushed back to the tip?
 
(quoted from post at 11:03:09 02/14/19)
(quoted from post at 07:36:22 02/14/19)
GB, I did clean that screen when I cleaned everything else. I'm about to give up on it. For what it will cost to have someone fix it, I might as well just buy a new saw. For the very little use the the mac had over 10 or so years, I might just as well buy an electric saw. I don't really foresee any need for a chain saw anyway. That mac saw was one of those tools that I was glad to have in my storage shed just in case the need for one pops up.

I also tried the transmission fluid. Didn't do any good.

Can someone recommend what I should look for in an electric saw?
Click to expand...
If you think of an engine as an air pump something has to be clogging it up. The muffler assembly should be removable. I'd try taking it off and see if that is the problem.

My old neighbor had an electric saw and it was sad. Just sayin'. :)
Click to expand...

HD,
I just read my previous answer to your post and it sounded a bit snarky. I assure you that I didn't mean it that way.

Thanks all you guys for trying to help.
Click to expand...

It is an interesting problem. There is something, you just have not found it yet. Don't assume anything. Hang in there you will find the problem if you keep at it.
 
(quoted from post at 12:11:37 02/14/19)
HD,
I just read my previous answer to your post and it sounded a bit snarky. I assure you that I didn't mean it that way.

Thanks all you guys for trying to help.
Click to expand...
I cried.

:lol:

Just kidding! No offense taken - I understand your frustration. It's a really weird situation. It sounds like something is causing binding between the piston and plug. How does the plug look? Is the electrode pushed back to the tip?
Click to expand...

I have had the plug out and it is just fine. As I said, it's the original plug.
 

at this point, i can only think of two things - a failed compression release or aliens.
 
(quoted from post at 13:14:58 02/14/19)
at this point, i can only think of two things - a failed compression release or aliens.
Click to expand...

I purchased this saw about 16 years ago. Does it even have a compression release? I can't find anything in the manual about it.
 
(quoted from post at 16:37:52 02/14/19)
(quoted from post at 13:14:58 02/14/19)
at this point, i can only think of two things - a failed compression release or aliens.
Click to expand...

I purchased this saw about 16 years ago. Does it even have a compression release? I can't find anything in the manual about it.
Click to expand...

i'm not a chain saw expert and i didn't even stay at a holiday inn last night, so that's just my own brand of WAG. but loosening the spark plug is performing the same task.

if it's not that, it seems to me that based on what you've done and observed, everything else can be ruled out, except for........ aliens. and let's not ever underestimate what aliens can do :idea:
 
(quoted from post at 14:23:24 02/14/19)
(quoted from post at 16:37:52 02/14/19)
(quoted from post at 13:14:58 02/14/19)
at this point, i can only think of two things - a failed compression release or aliens.
Click to expand...

I purchased this saw about 16 years ago. Does it even have a compression release? I can't find anything in the manual about it.
Click to expand...

i'm not a chain saw expert and i didn't even stay at a holiday inn last night, so that's just my own brand of WAG. but loosening the spark plug is performing the same task.

if it's not that, it seems to me that based on what you've done and observed, everything else can be ruled out, except for........ aliens. and let's not ever underestimate what aliens can do :idea:
Click to expand...

OK, I went on YouTube and saw how a compression release works on a chain saw. You must manually push in the compression release before starting.

My saw has no compression release on it anywhere. I'm sure if it did the manual would say something about it. It's real mystery how loosening the plug about one turn and it will turn over fine with the cord. It's got to be aliens.
 

The Thing[/i:28fee77baf]"] Childs, happens all the time, man. They're falling out of the skies like flies... Chariots of the Gods, man. They practically own South America. I mean, they taught the Incas everything they know.
Click to expand...
 
(quoted from post at 15:04:08 02/14/19)
The Thing[/i:73db790819]"] Childs, happens all the time, man. They're falling out of the skies like flies... Chariots of the Gods, man. They practically own South America. I mean, they taught the Incas everything they know.
Click to expand...
/quote]

Did they teach the Incas how to fix a chain saw?
Click to expand...
 
That's a really weird situation. I looked it up and it's a little piston ported engine. Loosening the plug allows it to breathe enough to turn over. Removing the muffler does nothing, which makes me think the intake port may be clogged. If it were mine I'd pull the cylinder and take a look.

Wikipedia shows a model of how the engine works, but theirs has a reed valve on the intake. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Two-stroke_engine
 
(quoted from post at 08:50:53 02/14/19)
(quoted from post at 08:43:33 02/14/19) I have followed this post - interesting problem. You state it pulls through fine with the plug out but locks up with the plug in. Is it locking up at
TDC? If so did someone put another spark plug in it for (storage etc.) that is too long and interferes with the piston? Does the plug have a gasket at
the base or has it been lost? Might try un-threading the plug several turns and see if that eliminates the lock up.

To your question on electric chain saws. I have a small one I bought to trim apple trees. The chain speed is very slow, as a result the cutters tear
at the wood giving a ragged cut. The whole time the chain saw is bouncing back and forth against the tree/limb. The chain speed should be similar to
that of a gas saw. In addition, my electric saw had what I call a cheap chain, the cutters were space several links apart. Perhaps to save money on
cutters....? I replaced the chain with another, only one link between the cutters, still tears at the wood. One time use quickie job maybe - I will
make you a smoking deal on mine.
Click to expand...

It has the original plug in it. If I unscrew the plug a turn or two, I can turn it over with the starter rope. As I said, it ran fine the last time I used it and put it back in it's case in my storage shed.
Click to expand...

I understand that "it ran fine when you put it away" but if the lock-up goes away when you loosen the plug it would appear there is a problem there. Loosening the plug should not eliminate a lock-up condition. If an investigation shows there is no contact between the plug and the piston....then perhaps you are feeling the normal resistance from compression.
 
(quoted from post at 18:46:54 02/14/19)
(quoted from post at 08:50:53 02/14/19)
(quoted from post at 08:43:33 02/14/19) I have followed this post - interesting problem. You state it pulls through fine with the plug out but locks up with the plug in. Is it locking up at
TDC? If so did someone put another spark plug in it for (storage etc.) that is too long and interferes with the piston? Does the plug have a gasket at
the base or has it been lost? Might try un-threading the plug several turns and see if that eliminates the lock up.

To your question on electric chain saws. I have a small one I bought to trim apple trees. The chain speed is very slow, as a result the cutters tear
at the wood giving a ragged cut. The whole time the chain saw is bouncing back and forth against the tree/limb. The chain speed should be similar to
that of a gas saw. In addition, my electric saw had what I call a cheap chain, the cutters were space several links apart. Perhaps to save money on
cutters....? I replaced the chain with another, only one link between the cutters, still tears at the wood. One time use quickie job maybe - I will
make you a smoking deal on mine.
Click to expand...

It has the original plug in it. If I unscrew the plug a turn or two, I can turn it over with the starter rope. As I said, it ran fine the last time I used it and put it back in it's case in my storage shed.
Click to expand...

I understand that "it ran fine when you put it away" but if the lock-up goes away when you loosen the plug it would appear there is a problem there. Loosening the plug should not eliminate a lock-up condition. If an investigation shows there is no contact between the plug and the piston....then perhaps you are feeling the normal resistance from compression.
Click to expand...

Normal resistance? I've had this saw for 16 years. I know how it feels when starting. If I pulled on that starter rope now any harder, I'm afraid I would break it. It is definitely not normal.

How could there possibly be any contact between the plug and the piston? I told you that the plug is the original one in the saw. I don't think someone sneaked into my storage shed and changed the plug and I have never loaned that saw to anyone.

I'll probably wind up tearing it completely apart when I get the time. After all, it is no good to me the way it is now.
 
Does it have pulse auto chain oiler? Oil tank pressurized by crankcase. I know mini mac did not. seen other brands that duckbill on end of pulse line would let bar oil into crankcase. This would cause lockup when cranking.
 
My current one is a tough little Husqvarna 50 with a 16" bar.
But I'm looking real hard at the 460 Rancher.
In the mid 70's I had what was called a Husqvarna 280 I think it was, with a 20" or 24" bar I can't remember . . . but I had bought it brand new and lived on a 160 acre farm with tons of giant Douglas firs . . . I loved that saw and the 460 Rancher looks like the equivalent of it but a tad sharper (squarish) looking in style.

I like a saw not so heavy that limbing as you go is a drag but that can breeze through 2' Maple
If limbing a whole downed tree first then I'd have a small saw handy. But if you like to limb as you go, then good to have not too heavy saw so you can buck and limb with the same saw. Enter the 460 Rancher.

I've had a small MCulloch down in my shop in pieces so long I can't remember what it needs. But I've got a round tuit now so it should get done. GOOD COMPANY and good saws.

You'd never know it but the reason I dropped by was to ask if anyone remembers the old McCulloch radio advertizing song, that started with:

"YOU'RE IN LUCK WHEN YOU GOT A MCCULLOCH CHAIN SAW"

that's the only line I can remember. It was a real catchy melody.

something about "power in your hands" ??
 
Just remembered more of the 50's McCulloch commercial . . . brainwashed in the prime of life.

You're in luck when you got a McCulloch chain saw
You've got power by the hour in your hands
With McCulloch you're the master
Cause you keep on cutting faster


One more line, which may have been a repeat of the first line. :D
 
(quoted from post at 04:53:00 02/15/19) Just remembered more of the 50's McCulloch commercial . . . brainwashed in the prime of life.

You're in luck when you got a McCulloch chain saw
You've got power by the hour in your hands
With McCulloch you're the master
Cause you keep on cutting faster


One more line, which may have been a repeat of the first line. :D
Click to expand...
LOL thanks can't get that out of my head now. Grew up in a small power equipment business that sold McCulloch. Had that jingle etched in my brain at 12 years old.
Throughout the 70's McCulloch had the Mini Mac and Power Mac 6 that were flying off the shelves for tree trimmers. Light weight and the PM 6 was powerful for a small saw and balanced well for use by climbers that would one hand them in a tree top. IIRC the MM was 1.6 cubic inch and PM6 was 2 or 2.1 cubic inch the OP saw is a later version early 80's I believe and had a 10-12 year run. It was about the time saws were making their way into mass merchandisers and hardware chains. 160s was 1.97 cube 32.3 cc. The pro dealers hated them they were basically the same as the earlier but had added safety features to stay compliant. The more compliant saw added a layer of bolt ons and made the already difficult to work on saw more difficult. You didn't just remove a cover to get to a coil or points. You would have to remove the power head from the case unhooking everything as you went. Needless to say dealer didn't make much money repair on $129.99 saw that would take 2 hrs or better to change points. We had piles of these saws that customers wouldn't want to pay for $80 repair.
Problem areas were muffler studs would loosen and in attempts to tighten would turn them into the already thin cylinder wall or hog out the bolt holes and not enough material to repair. Spark arrestors were on top of the list as they would plug without fail in almost every saw sold to make it worse most users were still on 32/1 mixes that fit for every other 2 stroke at the time. Carbon would build in the exhaust ports. Auto oiler pumps were not great, they were a cam driven pump that could potentially seize. Earlier models still had manual oilers and helped the guy who knew when to use it. I think one of the worst things were the carburetors, not easy to clean or get to and filters did not fit securely. Occasional use, leaving old fuel in hurt them as it did the others. But as I see it was on par for almost all of the smaller saws on the market.
The only thing that sticks out to me on your 160 is the plug it's supposed to be a DJ8J or equiv. When replacing the plug does it turn at all then stop or does not turn period.
You said. "I don't think someone sneaked into my storage shed and changed the plug and I have never loaned that saw to anyone."
I have adult children that use my stuff I never know exactly what may have happened, did he need a plug for the weed eater and stole your saw plug and replaced with wrong one? May not be your problem, but in my case I have to consider it.
 

One more time. This saw has the original plug that came in the saw. My storage shed has a lock on it. No one has ever borrowed that saw.

[b:06f8c6dfec][color=red:06f8c6dfec][size=24:06f8c6dfec]ORIGINAL PLUG !!!![/size:06f8c6dfec][/color:06f8c6dfec][/b:06f8c6dfec]

Please don't make me say it again.
 
I hope that when you do find the problem you will let us know what you found. I would not rule out carbon build up on top of the piston.
 
(quoted from post at 11:41:24 02/15/19)
One more time. This saw has the original plug that came in the saw. My storage shed has a lock on it. No one has ever borrowed that saw.

[b:2ba80a8423][color=red:2ba80a8423][size=24:2ba80a8423]ORIGINAL PLUG !!!![/size:2ba80a8423][/color:2ba80a8423][/b:2ba80a8423]

Please don't make me say it again.
Click to expand...
Well I guess we cleared that up!
I don't know if you even have kids but mine a couple years ago took a plug from 1 of my saws and when he replaced did so without the washer, (which I found later laying near the saw on the floor). I had the same symptoms you are describing and had the original plug in it. I didn't know he had even taken it until I questioned him about it, thankfully no harm came of it.
I read your post and completely understand your dilemma.
As I said " In my case I have to consider it" I have no idea what your circumstances are and merely making a suggestion.
I however did ask if it turned at all when you replaced the plug or does it not turn period? Just a question to aid in diagnosis.
I'm beginning to side with alien theory.
Good luck!
 
(quoted from post at 09:24:05 02/15/19)
(quoted from post at 11:41:24 02/15/19)
One more time. This saw has the original plug that came in the saw. My storage shed has a lock on it. No one has ever borrowed that saw.

[b:3eadb96d29][color=red:3eadb96d29][size=24:3eadb96d29]ORIGINAL PLUG !!!![/size:3eadb96d29][/color:3eadb96d29][/b:3eadb96d29]

Please don't make me say it again.
Click to expand...
Well I guess we cleared that up!
I don't know if you even have kids but mine a couple years ago took a plug from 1 of my saws and when he replaced did so without the washer, (which I found later laying near the saw on the floor). I had the same symptoms you are describing and had the original plug in it. I didn't know he had even taken it until I questioned him about it, thankfully no harm came of it.
I read your post and completely understand your dilemma.
As I said " In my case I have to consider it" I have no idea what your circumstances are and merely making a suggestion.
I however did ask if it turned at all when you replaced the plug or does it not turn period? Just a question to aid in diagnosis.
I'm beginning to side with alien theory.
Good luck!
Click to expand...

With the plug in and tight, I can put a socket on the nut on the clutch wheel and turn it over. On the compression stroke it still turn hard but can turn over with a socket on it.

It will not turn over with the starter cord. As I said if I put the saw on the floor and used my foot and both hands to pull that cord, I'm pretty sure it would break.

A socket on the clutch wheel puts a lot more torque on it than the starter cord on that three inch or so wheel. I removed the starter cord assembly and it is fine. The cord will pull out fully and the spring returns it. What more can I say?

For what they will charge me to repair it, I will still have a 16 year old saw. I would be better off just buying a new saw.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

DWF
Chain Oil on a DeWalt 20V chain saw
2
Replies
24
Views
1K
Janicholson
Janicholson
Hemmjo
Battery Chainsaw vs Reciprocating saw
2
Replies
32
Views
2K
Fixingfarmer
Fixingfarmer
S
Oliver 770 Diesel - Slow to Start
Replies
5
Views
256
SOCOPowerMan
S
B
source for female connector on starter motor, JD750
Replies
4
Views
250
Bambi the 750 tractor
B
L
Battery Cable sizing... placing a bet
Replies
17
Views
1K
HFJ
H
Tractor Parts Tractor Manuals

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy

Back
Top