loota

Member
Hi have 9n put in standard sleeves and new standard 3 ring piston had .020 over on bearings so left them alone. starter turned over the old junk good. with the new seems the starter does not have enough power to turn them over . if you keep hitting the switch they will move at every click a little. is it possible the starter is worn that bad. I can slide pistons up and down easy when I put them in. torked bearings to 35
 
Rusty,
Yes.
Loota,
Tell us more.
Did you just finish putting the new parts in and now it's hard to turn over?
Did the crank turn freely when you assembled it? Did you plastiguage the bearings as you installed things?
 
(quoted from post at 19:18:20 02/11/19) Hi have 9n put in standard sleeves and new standard 3 ring piston had .020 over on bearings so left them alone. starter turned over the old junk good. with the new seems the starter does not have enough power to turn them over . if you keep hitting the switch they will move at every click a little. is it possible the starter is worn that bad. I can slide pistons up and down easy when I put them in. torked bearings to 35

Well, with 0.20" OVER bearings, for SURE the bearings aren't binding up!
 
Buy a new starter. I have a 172 Ford motor in my skid loader. Only fix to the draging starter was a new one. It is unreal how much faster it turns over.
 
OEM parts are best to rebuild over and over -I don't suggest buying anything 'new'. But, seems you may have missed a step on your rebuild so don't be quick to blame the starter. Like Bruce (VA) said, click click click could be a weak or junk battery -get it tested at your trusty local starter/alternator shop. they can also test the starter. How old is it? The battery is the first step in any electrical system. It MUST sustain a full charge under load to be effective. Cheap wallyworld/tsc batteries are usually junk as well and last maybe 2 years. The 9N/2N starter is a 1-Wire unit that uses NO solenoid. Poor/incorrect wiring is a big non-starting issue to investigate as well. So, you don't say, but is system still 6V/POS GRN or a 12V switchover job? Lots to problem solve before replacing any parts.

9N/2N ELECTRICAL DIAGRAM, POST S/N 12500:
<a href="https://imgur.com/SGwwM6t">
SGwwM6th.jpg" title="source: imgur.com"
</a>​

Tim Daley(MI)
 
What was he END GAP of the Piston Rings in the cylinder BORES before you installed on pistons?

What was the BRG. clearances on the Crankshaft when you checked clearance with Plastique?

Did you check the BRG, clearances with either plastique and or inside and out side Micrometers?


Bob...Retired Power Engineer...
 
Loota; Assuming you can turn the engine over by hand reasonably easy, I would suspect your starter. When I rebuilt my 2N it wouldn't turn over with the starter either. Had it rebuilt by an Auto Electric shop and now it turns over nicely. You found the .020 over bearings already there, so I wouldn't have plastic gauged them either.
 
assuming you got the engine back together correctly.. bearings good.. caps on right.. etc, and can turn her over by hand.. check that starter shaft for side play.
 

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