2n Ford

Hi

On a 2n ford converted to 12 v the distribute cap connect to the coil on mine anyway.

I cant get it started anymore A few days ago it did this but after 2 hours it started and I plowed snow with it and it ran great So I parked it in the lean to and tried to start it yesterday No go nothing, spins over fast I used iso alcohol and still nothing. I checked all the connections and have power but very weak spark.
I took off the dist cap cleaned the contacts and still no better.There is a metal plate behind the rotor and I guess the points and condenser is behind that ? Does that plate just slide out Or is another way to get it out ? I think the points are caroaded from what I saw in the cap.Also is there a condenser on this tractor and if now by the points where would it be?

Thank you

Garry

PS Hobo I now have 1 brake lol Will do the other this year

PPS I checked all the fuel and reset the nedel valves to 1 1/2 to

the points and condenser are behind the plate under the rotor, which just slides out.
It is far easier to remove the entire distributor from the engine to replace the internal parts. Its only two bolts, your plug wires and the coil connection (or you can swing the coil out of the way and just remove the distributor body). Take off the fan belt and move or remove the generator for more room.

Get a Petronix electronic ignition conversion and eliminate those points and (at least in my experience) your engine will start easier, and run much smoother, no matter how wet the weather

Do you have good fuel flow?
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Hi and thank you

Yes plenty of fuel But it looks like the contacts going to the bottom of the coil is wore way down.

Well now I know where to points and condenser are ,I like the electronic ig but never put one in and not sure how much they are ?

I have plowed a lot of snow every year ( Minnesota here ) and never had a prob with it starting or running till now .I think I can get the distributor off without taking the fan belt off, I hope
Does yesterdays tractors have the points dis cap condenser and maybe that electric ign for it ?

Garry

Yes, you can take the distributor out with the fan belt on. I take the wire off the coil, unsnap it a wiggle it out, unplug the plug wires and take a half inch wrench and remove the two bolts and pull the distributor out. Work on it at the bench. If you've used it many years without a tune up it might be time.

You say, "...it looks like the contacts going to the bottom of the coil is wore way down..." OK, your 2N will have the OEM front mount distributor using the OEM 6V square can coil. The coil only has the HD copper, steel, or brass pigtail spring contact to the distributor condenser screw. Why or how does it get "worn down"??? It must contact the condenser screw so if too short, it ain't, so stretch it out so it is. No, you don't need EI -that's a false assumption perpetuated by fellas who don't understand the 6V/POS GRN system. If the tractor doesn't run now what makes you think EI or even a 12V switch over job will fix that? It is a fact that 99.98% of all non-starting issues are due to poor/incorrect wiring jobs, whether 6V or 12V. EI and 12v conversions have their merits, but they are not the alternative save-all solution to a non-starting 6V system. Don't assume anything. Get to the true root cause problem and then you can decide if you really want/need to invest in EO or 12V. I guarantee if you get your 6V system fixed properly, it will run fine for 5 years or more. PM is the key to any machine. You do need the manuals. You don't need to remove the fan belt to pull the distributor, but I've found if I loosen the generator and slip it and the belt out of the way I can get my large hands in there to work easier. I'd start with a full tune-up done correctly -see Farmer Dan if you want it done right. A good brand, fully tested battery (not simply 'charged')is needed. Get it tested and replaced if bad. Get the wiring verified before cranking it over. Again I highly stress to get the essential manuals. You can learn a lot when you have the proper tools. The best place to get front mount parts is NAPA -see list below. The Ford N-Series Tractors up thru the Hundred Series models all were spec'd to use the Champion H10 14mm Spark Plug. At some point Champion released a hotter plug -the H12. The AUTO-LITE company also released their 437 plug, basically the same range and equally as good. Today, both plugs are foreign made, Mexico is fine as they will be under USA QC inspection, Cheena has no clue what QC is. The CHAMPION H12 is also renumbered as the 512 unit. The AUTO-LITE 437 is now also renumbered as the 216 unit. I use both brands and have never had any issue with either one finding they both work equally well. When I go to buy plugs, it's whatever they have on their shelf. The 14mm spark plug spec is .025" - .028". I always set mine to .026". Fuel issues will contribute to plug life too so your mileage may vary. Some who say they have poor plug life probably have a fuel issue that is the true root cause, not the brand of plug. The distributor is the important part of the electrical system. It matters what parts go on it. I buy from NAPA mainly as their parts as most are all still made in the USA. The ECHLIN brand points (NAPA CS35) are made in Mexico, still better than the cheap Cheena made junk most other suppliers sell.

FORD FRONT MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR NAPA PARTS:

POINTS: ECHLIN, CS-35 or BLUE STREAK, FD-6769X
CAP: FA-350 or FD-126
ROTOR: FA-300 or FD-104
CONDENSER: FA-200 or FD-71
GASKET KIT: SPAREX, S 60308 or BK60308
SPARK PLUG: 14mm CHAMPION H12 or AUTO-LITE 437, GAP SET: .026? ?.001?
IGNITION BREAKER POINT GAP: .015?

FORD 9N/2N TRACTOR ESSENTIAL OWNER/OPERATOR/PARTS/SERVCE MANUALS:
Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)

Hello again

First I would like to say I want to thank everyone that replied to my question, I Will take all the advice I can get as I have no clue on how this thing works.


I guess I didn't explain that this 2n was changed to a 12 v system long before I bought it and I have had it for many years,All I know is what I saw when I looked at the dist without the cap on and rather start pulling things apart I like to ask people that know about the thing I am working on ( like the rear seals brakes and axles which Many great people helped me through doing all that) So everyone has their experience on how to do things.

Ok so that said one question , That spring that pushes down on the dist cap from the coil,is that a sepert piece,If so maybe it fell out?.

The contact on the dis cap for the coil is flat and even with the cap No bump at all.

2ed Should I replace the points dist and cap and the coil just to be sure? The plug wires are pretty new I replaced them not long ago with new plugs.Also I uses a new plug to test the spark.

Garry

(quoted from post at 08:44:36 02/04/19)

Hello again

First I would like to say I want to thank everyone that replied to my question, I Will take all the advice I can get as I have no clue on how this thing works.


I guess I didn't explain that this 2n was changed to a 12 v system long before I bought it and I have had it for many years,All I know is what I saw when I looked at the dist without the cap on and rather start pulling things apart I like to ask people that know about the thing I am working on ( like the rear seals brakes and axles which Many great people helped me through doing all that) So everyone has their experience on how to do things.

Ok so that said one question , That spring that pushes down on the dist cap from the coil,is that a sepert piece,If so maybe it fell out?.

The contact on the dis cap for the coil is flat and even with the cap No bump at all.

2ed Should I replace the points dist and cap and the coil just to be sure? The plug wires are pretty new I replaced them not long ago with new plugs.Also I uses a new plug to test the spark.

Garry

Click to expand...

Don't worry about taking the distributor out, nothing is going to jump off or fall out. No need to buy a new coil, cap or rotor. Unless you break them. Like Tim said you can get all the parts at your local auto parts store. This distributor was used on 21 different vehicles by Ford so its more popular than people think. If you have a couple hundred bucks to spend you can buy EI. I would suggest points, condenser and new gaskets. When putting the distributor back in...hold it in place with one hand and turn the rotor with the other hand. When the drive tang on the distributor mates with the camshaft it will stop turning and you can tighten it down.

Hi Garryllk, "Ok so that said one question , That spring that pushes down on the dist cap from the coil,is that a sepert piece,If so maybe it fell out?." That spring is not separate, it's fastened to the coil. If yours isn't there, then that may be your problem. With that in mind, though, it sounds like your distributor has gotten moisture into it over the years, thus the corrosion. I't probably time to put in new points, condenser, rotor and cap and coil if that spring is missing.

Hi

I got the distributor out and ordered a coil Which is now a 12 v not the 6 He said they changed them.+ points,rotor,condenser,and resister to from yesterdays tractors So I hope this will do it

Garry

Use a 1157 bulb (2 amp draw) are better a automotive headlight (4 amp draw) to test ability of the circuit to work under normal operating conditions.

Install cap and coil move positive lead to top of coil to confirm a complete circuit to confirm contact of coil to brass screw... A Ohm meter will get you in trouble it can not load the circuit




I gave my 1157 contraption to a bud with a front mount have not made up another once he used it he saw the "LIGHT" and wanted it bad. His problem ended up he had left the switch on it heated up the springy thingy on the coil. He would stretch it it had lost its ability to hold tension every time he installed it it collapsed and lost contact... Automotive bulb in a can...










Dist on the tractor you can hook it up and from the seat confirm operation of the circuit... The best part confirm power thru the ignition stitch BOOM you have just ruled out a bunch of chit no need to dissemble the tractor to shine clean bright and tight till ell freezes over...

The coil is the load the bulb in the test is the load just like flip"n a light switch on in yer house... Ditch the ohm meter load it up in real life working conditions... Confusion over see the "LIGHT"

Hey Hobo

That defiantly is a neat trick,That's the prob. I found trying to test spark and things it takes 2 just to do it because that starter button pushes so hard and the loader controls are in the way to you can't push it and do anything else.I plan on making one of those for further use.

Thanks Hobo

ps prob. will be talking with you when I tear off the other back axle to do the brakes seals and bearings


Garry