Spark plugs

RGR

Member
Okay since I'm still a newbie and really give it a once over come warmer weather, I'm reading and learning all about my 8N. I'll be changing the oil, both engine and hydraulic and anything else I can change, I want to make it mine. I also want to change the plugs and probably points and the such that goes with it. But back to the plugs, with my curiousity searching the net, I've seen a few thoughts on plugs, most say only use autolite, some say 437s and .025 gap and others say 216s and .020 gap, this is all for a 6 volt system which I plan on keeping. So is there a right answer to the proper spark plug, or is it whatever works in your tractor, right now the plugs look like little rust balls. Your patients with us newbies, I take my hat off to you all.
 
437- 10/30w 10/40 oil and filter in crankcase your pick of oil brand as long as it is SAE--- oil is oil. Crankcase, tranny, hyd watch for mung in all oils-- mung is a froffy light brown pasty looking ooze it is water and oil mix a small amount is normal but more then a trace needs attention.Flush air cleaner and put in new oil. Put in new points, condenser, and plug wires as you say. Put in American made parts, imported parts are your last choice most are a waste of time and money.Get an Owners Manual A must is I & T Shop Service Manual A few photos of your tractor would nice. Enjoy post back if any ?s.
 

NGK 3112 (B-4l) Nickle plated to boot... Bar non a much better plug than a garbage Autolite are Champ...

Autolite shot themselves in the butt when they farmed their plugs out to china... Pure garbage...
 
Plugs are gapped at 25 thousandths, regardless of distributor.
Point gap is 25 thousandths for side mount, 15 thousandths for front mount.

The last Autolite plugs I bought were made in Mexico.
Same with the last set of Champions I bought.
May even be the same manufacturer for all I know.
But that's a WAG, I really don't know.

Autolite 216 is the equivalent of Champion H10. Original heat range.
Autolite 437 is the equivalent of Champion H12. One range hotter.

I have not tried the NGK 3112 that Hobo suggests, but I don't
doubt his experience or knowledge of them.
Probably not much difference price wise.
 

I use to be a die hard Autolite fan till I had to replace all I had installed in a year probably 15/20 sets it was a miserable year with all those misfires ... Autolite paid the price for their venture I understand it hurt them so bad they moved production back to mexico... Don't mater you only get one shot at screw'N me...

I spec Mexico OK but some china chit still floating around refuse them...

NGK plug shell don't rust made in the USA good enoufh for me... I prefer OEM even if OEM is champion If OEM not available Denso then NGK Autolite don't even look at'em any more don't need anymore problems...
 
Royse,I put some NGK 3112s in my worker 8N maybe 2 or 3 years ago and I like them,no problems.One thing is they don't look like rust balls hanging on the ends of the plug wires,like Autolites do.
 
Thanks for the second vote of confidence for the NGK's Den.
As I said, I've never tried them, but I've never had a rust issue either.

My local store no longer carries Autolite, but they do carry NGK.
I'll give them a try the next time I need a set.
 
Got the essential manuals newbie? You can learn a lot when you have the proper tools. The Ford N-Series Tractors up thru the Hundred Series models all were spec'd to use the Champion H10 14mm Spark Plug. At some point Champion released a hotter plug -the H12. The AUTO-LITE company also released their 437 plug, basically the same range and equally as good. Today, both plugs are foreign made, Mexico is fine as they will be under USA QC inspection, Cheena has no clue what QC is. The CHAMPION H12 is also renumbered as the 512 unit. The AUTO-LITE 437 is now also renumbered as the 216 unit. I use both brands and have never had any issue with either one finding they both work equally well. When I go to buy plugs, it's whatever they have on their shelf. The 14mm spark plug spec is .025" - .028". I always set mine to .026". Fuel issues will contribute to plug life too so your mileage may vary. Some who say they have poor plug life probably have a fuel issue that is the true root cause, not the brand of plug. The distributor is the important part of the electrical system. It matters what parts go on it. I buy from NAPA mainly as their parts as most are all still made in the USA. The ECHLIN brand points (NAPA CS35) are made in Mexico but still beats Cheena junk.

FORD FRONT MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR, NAPA PARTS:

POINTS: ECHLIN, CS-35 or BLUE STREAK, FD-6769X
CAP: FA-350 or FD-126
ROTOR: FA-300 or FD-104
CONDENSER: FA-200 or FD-71
GASKET KIT: SPAREX, S 60308 or BK60308
SPARK PLUG: 14mm CHAMPION H12 or AUTO-LITE 437, GAP SET: .026? ?.001?
IGNITION BREAKER POINT GAP: .015?

FORD 8N TRACTOR ESSENTIAL OWNER/OPERATOR/PARTS/SERVCE MANUALS:
<a href="https://imgur.com/qI9P22k">
qI9P22kh.jpg" title="source: imgur.com"
</a>​

Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)
 
Most of the plugs that I have for vintage Fords are Autolite.

That said, I haven't bought any plugs for my vintage Fords since I bought a plug sandblaster from J.C Whitney in the mid/late 1980s.

Who knows what may have changed since then.

Dean
 
Find a gas station that sells non ethanol fuel and use it
the tractor will run so much better then with fuel with ethanol.
a bit more of a cost but starts and runs better .
 
(quoted from post at 05:54:02 02/05/19) Find a gas station that sells non ethanol fuel and use it
the tractor will run so much better then with fuel with ethanol.
a bit more of a cost but starts and runs better .

I started running ethanol free gas in my 9N this winter. It definitely starts very well and has more power, enough to notice a difference while running my snowblower.
 

I have used the Autolite 437's for the last 5 years. I make maple syrup and the 8-N is used to collect the sap. A lot of time spent idling in cold weather every spring. The 437's eliminated the foiling problem. I have always used E-10 (blended gasoline) fuel and have not had problems. Non-ethanol is much higher priced around here and I would have to make a special trip to a neighboring town to buy it.

NOTE: for the fashion conscious, the last 437's I bought had a sliver colored base, not the black color subject to rusting. I have not installed them to date however, I assume the sliver color is some sort of rust protection coating.
 
I use Auto lite AL7 or AL7X never had a problem We used then in our FOrd Flathead dragster and only got bear once and that was in Calf. in 63.
 

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