You say, "...it looks like the contacts going to the bottom of the coil is wore way down..." OK, your 2N will have the OEM front mount distributor using the OEM 6V square can coil. The coil only has the HD copper, steel, or brass pigtail spring contact to the distributor condenser screw. Why or how does it get "worn down"??? It must contact the condenser screw so if too short, it ain't, so stretch it out so it is. No, you don't need EI -that's a false assumption perpetuated by fellas who don't understand the 6V/POS GRN system. If the tractor doesn't run now what makes you think EI or even a 12V switch over job will fix that? It is a fact that 99.98% of all non-starting issues are due to poor/incorrect wiring jobs, whether 6V or 12V. EI and 12v conversions have their merits, but they are not the alternative save-all solution to a non-starting 6V system. Don't assume anything. Get to the true root cause problem and then you can decide if you really want/need to invest in EO or 12V. I guarantee if you get your 6V system fixed properly, it will run fine for 5 years or more. PM is the key to any machine. You do need the manuals. You don't need to remove the fan belt to pull the distributor, but I've found if I loosen the generator and slip it and the belt out of the way I can get my large hands in there to work easier. I'd start with a full tune-up done correctly -see Farmer Dan if you want it done right. A good brand, fully tested battery (not simply 'charged')is needed. Get it tested and replaced if bad. Get the wiring verified before cranking it over. Again I highly stress to get the essential manuals. You can learn a lot when you have the proper tools. The best place to get front mount parts is NAPA -see list below. The Ford N-Series Tractors up thru the Hundred Series models all were spec'd to use the Champion H10 14mm Spark Plug. At some point Champion released a hotter plug -the H12. The AUTO-LITE company also released their 437 plug, basically the same range and equally as good. Today, both plugs are foreign made, Mexico is fine as they will be under USA QC inspection, Cheena has no clue what QC is. The CHAMPION H12 is also renumbered as the 512 unit. The AUTO-LITE 437 is now also renumbered as the 216 unit. I use both brands and have never had any issue with either one finding they both work equally well. When I go to buy plugs, it's whatever they have on their shelf. The 14mm spark plug spec is .025" - .028". I always set mine to .026". Fuel issues will contribute to plug life too so your mileage may vary. Some who say they have poor plug life probably have a fuel issue that is the true root cause, not the brand of plug. The distributor is the important part of the electrical system. It matters what parts go on it. I buy from NAPA mainly as their parts as most are all still made in the USA. The ECHLIN brand points (NAPA CS35) are made in Mexico, still better than the cheap Cheena made junk most other suppliers sell.
FORD FRONT MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR NAPA PARTS:
POINTS: ECHLIN, CS-35 or BLUE STREAK, FD-6769X
CAP: FA-350 or FD-126
ROTOR: FA-300 or FD-104
CONDENSER: FA-200 or FD-71
GASKET KIT: SPAREX, S 60308 or BK60308
SPARK PLUG: 14mm CHAMPION H12 or AUTO-LITE 437, GAP SET: .026? ?.001?
IGNITION BREAKER POINT GAP: .015?
FORD 9N/2N TRACTOR ESSENTIAL OWNER/OPERATOR/PARTS/SERVCE MANUALS:
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Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)