9n and 8n coil

mrfabjr

Member
Is there a difference in a 9n coil and an 8n coil? I have an 8n tractor with a 9n distributor. Not sure if the coils and distributors are the same. It has been converted to 12 volts. It started and ran for about 5 seconds and now it is not firing to the plugs. Is a resister needed for these? I checked the gap on the points and they are at .015. It ran good when it ran so I know the firing order is correct. What am I overlooking?

Thanks
Floyd
 
8n and 9n frount mount coils were basically the
same but they do come in both 6 and 12 volts.
Since yours has been converted get a 12 volt coil
AND use oem ballast resistor thats mounted in back
of dash.
 
Are the coils marked 6 volts and 12 volts? Do I use the hot wire to the resistor and then come out of the resistor to the coil? If the resistor is not there what kind do I buy?
Floyd
 
I don?t remember if they?re marked or not but you
can mesure the resistance, the 12 volt coil should
have at least 2.5 ohms resistance. Yea hot wire
from ignition switch to ballast resistor then to coil.
You can get the coils and resistors here on this site.
 
It's highly unlikely that you burned up a
coil in 5 seconds of run time.

Do you have battery voltage at the top
of the coil with the points open? If so,
the problem is in the distributor. Post
back with an answer.

Regarding the coil, see tip # 30.

Google " wiring diagrams JMOR" and find
the one that fits your tractor.
75 Tips
 
I have only checked twice but I had voltage each time at the top of the coil. If I check it while I turn the engine over will the fire go off and back on? I only have a test light to check it with.


Floyd
 
"If I check it while I turn the engine over will the fire go off and back on?"

On a front mount distributor at the top of the coil, your light would
show dimmer and brighter when the engine is rolled by hand.
Not a very conclusive test.
If you remove the wire and hook your light between the coil and
the wire, it would show on and off as the points close and open.
 
Royse The test light will not go off and on while turning the engine over so do I look at the cond. or what is next


Floyd
 
If it won't go off, either the points are not opening or something
in the distributor is grounded. Double check where you have the
little wire from the condenser connected. It is pretty easy to have
it touch metal. Also check the insulator where the connection is made.
 
"could a bad condenser be the problem"

If it was shorted, yes. You can test for that with an ohm meter.
Or put you old one back in if you don't have an ohm meter/multi-meter.
You would need to disconnect it for a valid test.
 
The previous owner had lost the insulator for the cond. and tried to make one but it didnt work. I had a new plate so I just swapped it out and it fired right up. Thanks for all the help



Floyd
 

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