I one was looking to upgrade....

I've been looking around and have found a few bigger tractors in my area for about the same money (3000-3500). I was just wondering some opinions on which might be most worthwhile.

I'm looking for something with more lift, that's the main thing. That is all of them, but also interested in ease of working on (and cost). The 8N has been good to me as far as that goes.

The ones I'm looking at are a 801 series, a 3000 and a 4000. All gas though there's also a diesel 861 out there. None have a select-o-speed, which would seem to be a more complicated thing to work on to me, maybe I'm wrong.

Thanks for any opinions.
 
I would need more information to offer you my opinion.
Which of the 801 series? Which transmission and options?
Same with the 3000.
On the 4000, same questions but also, which 4000 model?
63/64 were 4 cylinder engines like the 800/801.
65 and up were 3 cylinder engines with many different options.

All of them are newer than an 8N, have more horsepower and
more lift capacity that you are seeking. All are good tractors and
are reasonably easy to work on. Most parts are readily available
but there are a few that are getting harder to find.
 
Forget about the diesel. Find a 3-4000, a 4000su is a great little gasser. I have never hauled a 3 or 4000
to the scrap yard.
 
(quoted from post at 15:27:55 02/01/19) I've been looking around and have found a few bigger tractors in my area for about the same money (3000-3500). I was just wondering some opinions on which might be most worthwhile.

I'm looking for something with more lift, that's the main thing. That is all of them, but also interested in ease of working on (and cost). The 8N has been good to me as far as that goes.

The ones I'm looking at are a 801 series, a 3000 and a 4000. All gas though there's also a diesel 861 out there. None have a select-o-speed, which would seem to be a more complicated thing to work on to me, maybe I'm wrong.

Thanks for any opinions.

For us, the 3000 isn't too bad, we have a gas with 8 speed tranny and live pto. The tractor will drink about five or more gallons between 6 - 8 hours fuel depending on engine rpm. The tractor starts up easier in colder weather than a diesel (not help starting diesel, no ether or heater). The day was Wednesday (01-31-2019) morning and evening I fed the cows with the 3000 when the temp was -1, I had to play with the choke a little till the tractor warmed up enough. Nice ride when driving down the road in 8th. The tractor works when running a baler and brush mower or wants to stall-ish when running a chipper (the chipper requires 40 HP min). Power steering is nice but not needed unless you have a loader or a snow plow. The tractor will pull a 3 bottom plow. The dif lock is great if you get stuck.
 
Thanks all so far.

The ads, as usual, are lacking in info.

The 800 is actually an 841. Does this mean it has 4 fwd gears and no live PTO? Got that from t-data website....

the 4000 is "early 60s" and looks like the 800 series, so I'm assuming this is legit and is a 4cyl, 5 spd.

The 3000, I only know it is an 8 speed.
 
I have owned, worked the snot out of and
done major repairs to Ns, Hundreds and 3
cylinder Thousands. Probably 30 or so
Fords in all. 20 of those were 3 cyl 2000,
3000, 4000 and derivatives that I've
bought, sold, fixed, parted out and/or
scrapped.
The tractor I like the best and use the
most, the tractor that has the most
features, the tractor that has been the
most reliable, is the easiest to work on
(though not as easy as an N) the one I'll
keep till they pry it from my cold, dead
fingers is my 3000.
Mine is a diesel but I've had gassers too
and liked them just as well.
Three things I will strongly suggest if
you are thinking of one.
1) Do not buy a straight up 4 speed.
Period.
Get the 6 speed or best of all, 8 sp.
2) Never, EVER trust the hours on the
proof meter on a 3 cylinder Ford unless
you watch the hours click over With Your
Own Eyes. The 1965-75 tach/hour meters
were notoriously prone to early failure
and almost never work.
Royse has one that still works - a modern
marvel.
3) Skip the Select O Speeds. Some guys
love them and wouldn't own anything else.
I have one and hate it. It is going to get
swapped out for an 8 speed this summer.
Lastly, a 3 cylinder 2000 is almost
identical to a 3000. So are the 2600s and
3600s. The latter are the same machines,
just a little newer. So look for those
too.
PS,
Some guys resent conversations about newer
Fords here on the N board.
It was reading questions like yours and
answers like mine and those below that
taught me enough to know what models to
look for when I decieded to make the
switch from my N.
 
(quoted from post at 04:01:05 02/02/19) I have owned, worked the snot out of and
done major repairs to Ns, Hundreds and 3
cylinder Thousands. Probably 30 or so
Fords in all. 20 of those were 3 cyl 2000,
3000, 4000 and derivatives that I've
bought, sold, fixed, parted out and/or
scrapped.
The tractor I like the best and use the
most, the tractor that has the most
features, the tractor that has been the
most reliable, is the easiest to work on
(though not as easy as an N) the one I'll
keep till they pry it from my cold, dead
fingers is my 3000.
Mine is a diesel but I've had gassers too
and liked them just as well.
Three things I will strongly suggest if
you are thinking of one.
1) Do not buy a straight up 4 speed.
Period.
Get the 6 speed or best of all, 8 sp.
2) Never, EVER trust the hours on the
proof meter on a 3 cylinder Ford unless
you watch the hours click over With Your
Own Eyes. The 1965-75 tach/hour meters
were notoriously prone to early failure
and almost never work.
Royse has one that still works - a modern
marvel.
3) Skip the Select O Speeds. Some guys
love them and wouldn't own anything else.
I have one and hate it. It is going to get
swapped out for an 8 speed this summer.
Lastly, a 3 cylinder 2000 is almost
identical to a 3000. So are the 2600s and
3600s. The latter are the same machines,
just a little newer. So look for those
too.
PS,
Some guys resent conversations about newer
Fords here on the N board.
It was reading questions like yours and
answers like mine and those below that
taught me enough to know what models to
look for when I decieded to make the
switch from my N.

Thanks a bunch!
 
ALL Ford Tractors are just plain workhorses and the N-Series is a great place to start if new to the wonderful world of vintage Ford Tractors/machines. You will learn a lot buy only if you do the work yourself. You aren't going to learn anything if someone else does all the work for you and relying on what they tell you may or may not be the truth anyway. Working with a partner/buddy too can be a blessing as combined knowledge and experience is a plus. You don't have to be a certified mechanic, and not many owners are, but if your are mechanically inclined and know which end of wrench to use, that it isn't a hammer, and a screwdriver isn't a chisel, you're already way ahead. I have only owned N's, no where near what Ultradog has had, and have my own repair/restoration business. I have worked on probably at least 500 or so different models. mostly Ford or Fergusons. I also agree with Ultradog that the Thousand Series models are going to give you the most bang for your buck. A 3000 or 400 is just about perfect for your needs. That is the key to selecting too -what are your needs? If you only need a tractor to mow a few acres and plow snow with and maybe do some small garden work, an N will do the job best. No sense buying a bigger gas guzzling model. "...something with more lift" needs clarification. Any hydraulic system can do the work but like everything else needs PM and occasional work. The bigger the unit, the more payload it can handle. An N won't pull a 3-bottom plow. Then you don't need an 800 or 5000 to mow with either. You don't need SOS either. S-O-S got a bad reputation because when first released, against the advice of Ford chief tractor engineer Harold Brock by the way, they had flaws and he told them so, but the sales and marketing people didn't listen and it cost Ford a fortune to fix and by then they had lost a huge market share. Mr.Brock resigned over this major issue and was immediately hired by the John Deere Company where he took them well into the next generation of good machines. Assess your needs, make logical choices, and ask questions when you find something you may want to buy. The market for used tractors is at an all time low so you have a big selection out there and prices will vary.

Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)
 
I'm looking for something with more lift, that's the main thing. That is all of them, but also interested in ease of working on (and cost). The 8N has been good to me as far as that goes.

I have N's and will keep one for light work . My 3000 has an 8 speed lo/hi + 4 and I love the selections available . I had a Sherman combo on an 8N but was always afraid of breaking it on heavy chores . The manual steering is much harder than an N but it is not too bad . I can operate a 4x4 round baler with no problems ( power wise and hydraulics ). The hay bales I bought this year are 800 - 1000 lbs and the lift has no problem . On the heavy mowing it is no comparison , not even close . The 3000 has a small lever at your right heel that when pushed down it locks both axles together for posi trac , which has saved me a few times .
 
I have 6 Ford Tractors. This is my favorite. 1964 2000 5sp live power.
cvphoto11685.jpg
 
I personally would go w/either the 3000 or 4000. I REALLY like power steering (IMHO the 3000 PS is better than the 4000), and the condition of the tires would make a difference as they are costly to replace.
 
(quoted from post at 14:39:38 02/02/19) I personally would go w/either the 3000 or 4000. I REALLY like power steering (IMHO the 3000 PS is better than the 4000), and the condition of the tires would make a difference as they are costly to replace.

The 3000 looks decent, but the 4000 looks like it's got a sweet new paint job.....just kidding. Actually the tires look in better shape on the 4000, but it's also farther away and they are asking more. It seems like the 3000 is the way to go with the recommendations on here. Now just have to take a look in person.....
 
Hello all,
Spring has arrived and it seems there are some new tractors on the market by me. One is a 3000 with a Woods finish mower.
the owner initially wanted $5000, but is willing to sell it to me for $3000, as I wouldn't even look at it unless this number was in teh conversation. It's a 4 gear transmission (from 1975 which seems odd) He gave me a list of issues, at least what he thinks or is willing to disclose.
I was hoping the 3000 gurus here can help me determine how bad these issues may be on the 3000, before I bother to take a look at it. I've got an 8N, so some stuff I'm sure is similar and I assume won't cost me an arm and a leg and time to fix.
I know I need to see it in person, but just looking for some thoughts, so I can be more informed when I look close at it.

1. The hydraulics are a little slow and probably needs some fluid. PRETTY LAX STATEMENT, BUT MAYBE THATS ALL IT IS.
2. There is a slight oil leak under the transmission (dinner plate mark after sitting for 5 months). ASSUMING A GASKET
3. There is a slight gas leak; should be an easy fix as it's the bottom of the carb not being seated correctly. OK NO PROBLEM
4. There is a knock when the transmission is engaged. Some think it's the engine, but my dad and I felt like it was something vibrating against the transmission. I have no idea the last time the oil was changed as I bought the house 9 months ago and purchased the tractor separately from the previous owner. Oil is a little low. THIS ONE IS CONCERNING. CLUTCH PERHAPS?
 

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