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BRAKE DRUM SCREW RETAINER

C

Charner (MS)

Member

Does anyone know a way to remove the retainer screw (4) in the brake drum on an 8N. Tried to chisel to loosen. Used torch an chisel - no luck. Finally drilled and used an extractor bit. That was work to do 8. Was told to weld Nut on screw face and wrench off. There must be a simpler way ?????????
 
Are your hubs good or are you replacing them? If you're replacing
the hubs, blow the heads off the screws with the torch and toss the
rest of the screws out with the hubs. Replace with new screws.
Pricier maybe, but definitely easier.

If you're not replacing the hubs and decide to cut the heads off,
you may want to grind the remainder flat, rotate the drum, then
drill and tap new threads in the hub. Or live without the screws.
 
Impact driver works most times if screws have not been damaged by poor practice.

If impact driver does not work, chuck the widest flat blade bit from impact driver tool into your impact driver (air or electric) and drive them out.

Never seen drum screws that cannot be removed by such procedures, but have heard of horror stories where prior improper procedures required heat and or welding.

Dean
 
(quoted from post at 15:32:11 02/01/19)
Does anyone know a way to remove the retainer screw (4) in the brake drum on an 8N. Tried to chisel to loosen. Used torch an chisel - no luck. Finally drilled and used an extractor bit. That was work to do 8. Was told to weld Nut on screw face and wrench off. There must be a simpler way ?????????
Click to expand...

I use Amsoil MP which is an incredible rust penetrant.
then I lean my whole body weight on a big square shanked screwdriver . . . and grab the screwdriver shank with an adjustable wrench and work away at the screw with good control.

When that didn't work in the past, I switched to using just the right chisel, positionedready to strike a counterclockwise blow to the appropriate edge of the screwdriver slot . . . angled so you are jarring the screw counterclockwise. riding on the bevel of the hole in the drum. But you have to make the first two blows count (if you miss on the first blow) before you mess up the screw slot as far as that process goes..

I picked up an impact screwdriver in Washington a couple of years ago but have never used one on drum screws.
Probably works like a hot damn. :D
 
Just curious, once you remove the screws why do you have to put them back in, I remember older cars with drum brakes, they use to have those retainer clips, we use to chisel them off or just break them off, and never bother to put them back on.
 
(quoted from post at 06:54:35 02/02/19) Just curious, once you remove the screws why do you have to put them back in, I remember older cars with drum brakes, they use to have those retainer clips, we use to chisel them off or just break them off, and never bother to put them back on.
Click to expand...

Once I get old ones removed, I never have to go thru that again thanks to NeverSeize. I just took my 3/4 ton front drums off with ease and the screws hadn't been out for 25 years.

With my truck anyway, having the screws in keeps the drum square to the shoes for brake adjusting, bleeding ( hydr brakes) or setting bearing load before putting the wheels back on.
 
Contrary to popular belief, the screws were not installed to keep the drum on the tractor while it was on the assembly line. If the purpose of the screws was to hold the drum on, they didn't need 4 of them. For that matter, one lug nut would have worked. And, to keep the drum on when you removed the wheel, clips are (were) used. You need to replace at least two of them. The design of the braking system requires centering the drum & the screws do that. Otherwise, only part of the shoe will contact the drum. I found replacements at the local hardware store: 3/8-16 x ? flat head stove bolts. Put plenty of Never-Seize on them.
75 Tips
 
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