Rate the rear outer axle seal R&R job

docmirror

Well-known Member
OK, hopefully to avoid the issue I had last time, I'd like to hear from those who have actually [u:6cc46234d6]been there, and done that[/u:6cc46234d6].

If you have opinions on why to do it, or if you worked on a 67 JD rear axle, or if you want to chatter about a six cylinder engine debate, please leave that for AFTER the answers to the 'rate the rear outer axle seal R&R job'.

Tractor is a 48 Ford 8N. I do have lube leak on the left side affecting brake action. I know I can do the brake reline, but have not tackled the rear seal. I have access to a fairly large 3 jaw puller, and some heavy/large wrenches. How long will my shade-tree skills take for this work?
 
FWIW, I replaced the seal on one side of my '52 8N a few years ago with good results. I was worried about the job, but it turned out much easier than I had expected. I don't recall how long it took -- maybe two hours, and I didn't really know what I was doing as a first-timer.
 
(quoted from post at 10:07:46 01/29/19) OK, hopefully to avoid the issue I had last time, I'd like to hear from those who have actually [u:868cf6b0cb]been there, and done that[/u:868cf6b0cb].

If you have opinions on why to do it, or if you worked on a 67 JD rear axle, or if you want to chatter about a six cylinder engine debate, please leave that for AFTER the answers to the 'rate the rear outer axle seal R&R job'.

Tractor is a 48 Ford 8N. I do have lube leak on the left side affecting brake action. I know I can do the brake reline, but have not tackled the rear seal. I have access to a fairly large 3 jaw puller, and some heavy/large wrenches. How long will my shade-tree skills take for this work?

i did a short write-up on this site a few years ago, having done this in the driveway for my '52 8n. i'll look for the post...
 
eh, not much detail from my old post.

so, it isn't terribly difficult to change the seal. to pull the seal, i used the hook on my log peavey to lever the seal out of the axle tube - which worked great.

an appropriate size socket as a driver to tap the new seal in place. lube the lip of the seal before sliding the axle shaft back in place.

the manual does help, too.

wally
 
Remove the safety wire from the large nut holding the wheel on. Then, get a BF breaker bar and remove the nut which has been tightened to 450 lbs. Then, reinstall it, hand tighten it, then back off 3 turns. Start the tractor and start driving in figure 8's. At some point you will hear/feel a 'pop' and the hub has come off the axle. That's good news.

Then, pull this page up and print it. https://fordtractorcollectors.com/rear-axle-seals/



IF the hub is loose, you can get in and out in 4 hours. If you have to jack that hub off, it could be a while longer.
75 Tips
 
(quoted from post at 15:55:54 01/29/19) eh, not much detail from my old post.

so, it isn't terribly difficult to change the seal. to pull the seal, i used the hook on my log peavey to lever the seal out of the axle tube - which worked great.

an appropriate size socket as a driver to tap the new seal in place. lube the lip of the seal before sliding the axle shaft back in place.

the manual does help, too.

wally
is is 1948 8N, so no inner seal . No seal to pull from trumpet (axle tube). No need to remove axle. ALL 8Ns were not born equal.
 
(quoted from post at 12:48:20 01/29/19)
(quoted from post at 10:07:46 01/29/19) OK, hopefully to avoid the issue I had last time, I'd like to hear from those who have actually [u:98ea5c3c6b]been there, and done that[/u:98ea5c3c6b].

If you have opinions on why to do it, or if you worked on a 67 JD rear axle, or if you want to chatter about a six cylinder engine debate, please leave that for AFTER the answers to the 'rate the rear outer axle seal R&R job'.

Tractor is a 48 Ford 8N. I do have lube leak on the left side affecting brake action. I know I can do the brake reline, but have not tackled the rear seal. I have access to a fairly large 3 jaw puller, and some heavy/large wrenches. How long will my shade-tree skills take for this work?

i did a short write-up on this site a few years ago, having done this in the driveway for my '52 8n. i'll look for the post...

I did a search for 'axle seal' and read a few, but didn't find anything specific to the job except some threads on removal of the rear hub. Thanks,
 
(quoted from post at 13:12:09 01/29/19) Remove the safety wire from the large nut holding the wheel on. Then, get a BF breaker bar and remove the nut which has been tightened to 450 lbs. Then, reinstall it, hand tighten it, then back off 3 turns. Start the tractor and start driving in figure 8's. At some point you will hear/feel a 'pop' and the hub has come off the axle. That's good news.

Then, pull this page up and print it. https://fordtractorcollectors.com/rear-axle-seals/



IF the hub is loose, you can get in and out in 4 hours. If you have to jack that hub off, it could be a while longer.
75 Tips

Got it, will review.
 
How high is the liquid level of rear end lube? Overfilled is never good... and if water is collecting, that has its own consequences.... Folks say they fill only to where it just starts to run out of the lower bolt hole in the side cover.. Your call....
 
Doc.Mirror,A great set of instructions that John Smith put together on axle seal replacement.Follow his directions to have dry brakes and no leaks.I use Permatex 51031 High Temperature Anaerobic Flange Sealant,or Loctite 510 Anaerobic Flange Sealant to seal the axle splines ect.It works better than silicone does.
Axle Seals
 
(quoted from post at 13:24:38 01/29/19)
(quoted from post at 15:55:54 01/29/19) eh, not much detail from my old post.

so, it isn't terribly difficult to change the seal. to pull the seal, i used the hook on my log peavey to lever the seal out of the axle tube - which worked great.

an appropriate size socket as a driver to tap the new seal in place. lube the lip of the seal before sliding the axle shaft back in place.

the manual does help, too.

wally
is is 1948 8N, so no inner seal . No seal to pull from trumpet (axle tube). No need to remove axle. ALL 8Ns were not born equal.

i'm not versed in the minutia for differences year to year. i only did the task on my '52. my bad, carry on.
 
Do you have a jack and a way to safely support the tractor? You'll need a large socket for the axle nut and a large breaker bar and a pipe for leverage, I use a 3/4" drive.
Before starting what shape are the lower pins that hold the 3 pt arms? If you're going in and they are worn it's a good time to replace them. Also look at the hub in comparison to the axle splines to see if you might need a hub.
Look at the time to repair this way, it took 70 years to wear it out so it might take some extra time to fix it.
 
(quoted from post at 13:40:51 01/29/19) How high is the liquid level of rear end lube? Overfilled is never good... and if water is collecting, that has its own consequences.... Folks say they fill only to where it just starts to run out of the lower bolt hole in the side cover.. Your call....

That is how I filled it. I have no water ingress. It was submerged a few years ago, and I drained it, then cleaned with diesel twice, then drained again, and filled with hyd until it just ran out the bolt hole in the side cover.
 
(quoted from post at 15:34:49 01/29/19) Doc.Mirror,A great set of instructions that John Smith put together on axle seal replacement.Follow his directions to have dry brakes and no leaks.I use Permatex 51031 High Temperature Anaerobic Flange Sealant,or Loctite 510 Anaerobic Flange Sealant to seal the axle splines ect.It works better than silicone does.
Axle Seals

Nice source. I'm also going to change my steering to the later model so that's covered too. Thanks.
 
" I have no water ingress. "

That's rarely a problem.

The water gets in the hydraulic fluid from natural condensation occurring from the different temperature between the oil and the differential housing. Running the tractor does not heat the oil sufficiently to boil off the water like it does in engine oil. The result is that the hydraulics get overfilled.
75 Tips
 
Don?t forget your brakes shoes will be oil soaked...if
they have good pad life left you might be able to
clean them but most likely will need replacing.
 

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