Caryc

Well-known Member
Started up the 8N this morning to do some work and I heard a screeching type noise I figured it was coming from the back of the engine. Luckily I had two tools that were excellent for fixing the noise.

First I had a stethoscope that zeroed in on the noise. It was coming from my tach. I have to give myself injections weekly so have a lot of used syringes. I filled one up with oil then pulled the tack cable off and used the syringe to squirt oil into the cable and the tach socket. I put the cable back on and no more noise. That was an easy fix. That's the kind I like. :wink:
 
Caryc, you actually diagnosed the problem before going out and throwing a bunch parts at it? Well done. You used to be able to buy a little bottle of speedometer cable lube. The threads on the bottle matched the nut on the end of the cable. You just pulled the cable off the speedometer and screwed it onto the upside down bottle and when the bottle was empty, put the cable back on and it was good to go for a long time.
 
You went about this incorrectly.


First, you needed to vaguely describe the problem with out bothering to tell us even what model tractor you have.



Next, you need to make some silly guess as to the cause of the problem, which usually involves the coil or governor.



Next, you will then tell us about all the parts you have replaced over the past week trying to fix the problem.



Then, you will get at least one reply that tells you that back in 1976, when their 1955 Fartmobile had a similar problem, it was fixed by switching to 30w oil and EI. With a 12v conversion, of course. And a voltmeter.


So, don't troubleshoot. Just start buying parts until you fix it or run out of money. ;)
75 Tips
 
(quoted from post at 14:56:49 01/21/19) You went about this incorrectly.


First, you needed to vaguely describe the problem with out bothering to tell us even what model tractor you have.



Next, you need to make some silly guess as to the cause of the problem, which usually involves the coil or governor.



Next, you will then tell us about all the parts you have replaced over the past week trying to fix the problem.



Then, you will get at least one reply that tells you that back in 1976, when their 1955 Fartmobile had a similar problem, it was fixed by switching to 30w oil and EI. With a 12v conversion, of course. And a voltmeter.


So, don't troubleshoot. Just start buying parts until you fix it or run out of money. ;)
75 Tips
LMAO!

You left out the part about ethanol gas ruining the entire perspective.... :lol:
 

No he left out take you battery to a parts store and have them check it out... Its a pet peev of mine take it to someone that knows less than you do...
 
(quoted from post at 18:48:06 01/21/19)
No he left out take you battery to a parts store and have them check it out... Its a pet peev of mine take it to someone that knows less than you do...

Man...it's a wonder I got it fixed without doing all that stuff. :mrgreen:

One of my buddies has a battery tester that puts a load on the battery to test it. It's a good thing to have.

I've got a lot of tools and he has a lot of tools, so between us, one of us will usually have something needed for a fix.
 

99.98% of starting/running issues are due to unbalanced tire ballast. just read the board and you'll see :idea:
 
(quoted from post at 20:04:18 01/21/19)
99.98% of starting/running issues are due to unbalanced tire ballast. just read the board and you'll see :idea:

I never thought about that. I'd better check that first thing in the morning.
 
When weather and time permit, remove the cable core, wash it in solvent, and thoroughly lube it with the proper graphite.

Dean
 
(quoted from post at 06:39:07 01/22/19) When weather and time permit, remove the cable core, wash it in solvent, and thoroughly lube it with the proper graphite.

Dean

Thanks, I really didn't know the core could be removed all the way. Is that liquid graphite you're talking about or powdered?
 
(quoted from post at 10:06:54 01/22/19)
(quoted from post at 06:39:07 01/22/19) When weather and time permit, remove the cable core, wash it in solvent, and thoroughly lube it with the proper graphite.

Dean

Thanks, I really didn't know the core could be removed all the way. Is that liquid graphite you're talking about or powdered?
If you heat it with a torch the core will expand and pull the graphite in on its own. Just make sure to use the sky hook to hold it because it gets a little warm.
 

I grease cables like that always have and always will... I have special ends to install on them and pump chassis grease in them...
It was common in the 70/80's to lube them I never had one come back using the lube adapters... When they would come out EZ pull the cable put a wad of grease in one hand and feed the cable thru the grease back in... Chebby started putting speed sensors in the speedometer head that forced you to do a hand job on them...

Grease it oil it and move on its not that technical...
 
I use dry powered but I expect that graphite in liquid suspension will work. Read the label.

Dean
 

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