Ford 9N will not turn over

riddlebthis

New User
I have a 9N that will not turn over. Doesn't even budge. I attached both of the starters I have to the battery at different times to verify they are working and they both are. I have taken jumper cables from my truck to the battery terminals and can get it to turn over rather slowly (not fast enough to kick off) and faster if I pull spark plug(s).

The tractor is converted to 12v.

I have replaced:
All of the wiring (except for the battery terminals)
Alternator
Ammeter
Key Switch
Push Button Switch
Starter
Both Resistor Blocks
and also converted points/condenser to electronic ignition

Here is the wiring diagram I used (1 wire alternator)
https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&source=images&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwjevpedlO_fAhUDb60KHe5LByEQjRx6BAgBEAU&url=%2Furl%3Fsa%3Di%26source%3Dimages%26cd%3D%26ved%3D2ahUKEwjevpedlO_fAhUDb60KHe5LByEQjRx6BAgBEAU%26url%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252F23.23.terranut.store%252Fwire%252Fford-9n-wiring.html%26psig%3DAOvVaw1Yj5eT0ricdTHV8b2-pfg0%26ust%3D1547620069356236&psig=AOvVaw1Yj5eT0ricdTHV8b2-pfg0&ust=1547620069356236

I have verified spark and fuel.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 
No. It turns over slowly when the cables are hooked up to my truck, while the truck is running, but doesnt fire off. Its acting like a dead battery but my local oreillys and Walmart both tested and said it was a good battery.
 

What does "turn over" meant to you? steering wheel on the ground? Won't budge may mean mean stuck, which means that the motor will not turn even with a bar against the teeth of the ring gear. What does kick off mean to you? Do you mean it fires but won't run? or that it does run? Crank is a term that you could use that tells the reader that the starter is turning the engine. "Fire" will tell the reader that you are getting occasional ignition.
 
What do you mean "both resistor blocks" ??? There is only one OEM Ballast Resistor in the circuit and you use it regardless if OEM 6V/POS GRN or a 12V switch out job. If using a 6V square coil on the front mount system, with a 12V job, you need to add a 1-OHM inline ceramic resistor. With EI, I can't help you, I never mucked with them, never had a need, but suspect that is the root cause of your issues. Was it running before you went and replaced all those parts?

9N/2N WIRING DIAGRAM:
CJedLEch.jpg

Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)
 


Hook up your digital multimeter to the battery. Record the voltage. It should be 12.35 volts if the battery is fully charged. If it isn't, charge it.

Don't skip that step.

Once the battery is fully charged, hook the meter to the starter post and hit the starter button.


Post back w/ the voltage reading you get while the starter is turning the engine over.
75 Tips
 
You need to give some history as to how this problem came about and why you started throwing parts at it. Was the tractor not running and sitting outside and untouched for many years before you got it? or was it running poorly and making noises and then
stopped running all of a sudden? From what you are saying it sounds like you may have a spun bearing or rusted up cylinder walls, but that is just a guess.
 
Riddlebthis,Feel both of the battery cables over their entire length for hot spots,as 70 year cables could be
corroded badly under insulation.It so replace them and clean all connections bright and shinny,be shure the battery
ground is hooked to steering box bolt box cleaned shinney where the cable connects and not the rusted battery box.
Also remove the starter and clean the mounting flange on the block and starter end shinny where they meet each other
this makes a big difference in cranking speed.
 
Have you tried to connect the jumper cables from you truck to one side to a good clean ground and the other directly to the starter? I agree with what Den N said and 32 said about the history.
 
I have connected to the ground cable from the battery with the other to the starter post. That resulted in several sparks from the starter post, but overall resulted in the same slow lob that I got from attaching the cables to the battery posts themselves. I also tried to take the starter out of circuit in case of a short somewhere in my new wiring system, but got the same result.

I will clean that ground cable where it mounts to the chassis. I appreciate your input. :)
 
The starter is not ?cranking? the engine adequately. When it does crank over, I don?t believe it is at a speed that would give it the chance to ?fire? even
though I have verified the spark plugs are receiving spark from the coil.
 
Thank you Tim, yes this is how I have it wired in and set up, without the generator of course but added the alternator. There is a block resistor at the front and a ceramic ballast resistor down by the coil. Both are new. Thank you!
 
DEN N Ms!!!! BY GOLLY YOU'VE NAILED IT!!!! I followed your advice and BAM! What a deal! You have no idea how long I have sat out there scratchin my head with my multimeter leads... You are the best, thank you very much.
 
(quoted from post at 15:11:42 01/15/19) DEN N Ms!!!! BY GOLLY YOU'VE NAILED IT!!!! I followed your advice and BAM! What a deal! You have no idea how long I have sat out there scratchin my head with my multimeter leads... You are the best, thank you very much.

Congratulations riddlebthis!!!. and thanks for posting back. Corroded battery cables are a frequent cause of slow-no crank, but owners often balk at going to something so simple, wanting to replace parts instead. A terminal can appear clean but if it is not shiny, it is not clean.
 
I am so excited, I am gonna have to sit on my hands to keep from wavin' at people!!! Thank you all very much for your help and taking the time to read about my troubles. Best of luck to you all with your N's!
 

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