New to the game - Drawbar questions

Rok55

New User
I've been perusing the boards trying to figure what else I need to make my new to me 49 ready to work. My current implements are a 5' brush hog, a posthole digger and a 5' x 6' lightly weighted chain link pasture drag. May occasionally pull a small trailer hauling brush/trash/etc.

This is what Ive got so far and need to complete the setup. I obviously at minimum need draft arm chain stays but there are several ways to get there. Seems most would recommend a SWINGING drawbar setup to handle the whole thing but I'm not sure I understand why. Could you please give the why's. I assume it would be prudent to also get a set of sway bars. Also seems I'll need an adapter to get from the PTO to the implements.

mvphoto27055.jpg


This is mounted under the rear center section.
What is it? Looks like it would need to be removed to mount a swinging drawbar.

mvphoto27056.jpg
 
Seems most would recommend a SWINGING drawbar setup to handle the whole thing but I'm not sure I understand why. Could you please give the why's.

The aftermarket draw bar shown below is my recommendation for towing.

mvphoto27061.jpg


An aftermarket drawbar does not move vertically as a 11 hole drawbar would. There are a lot of hardware involved in stabilizing the 11 hole drawbar for tow purposes. You will need; stay bars, stabilizer bars, stabilizer mounting brackets below axle, safety reminder bracelet, and a drawbar lock.

mvphoto27059.jpg
 
The 8Ns had a big improvement over the
9/2Ns in that they had provisions to add a
real drawbar.
I don't know what that thing bolted under
there is but but I would just remove it.
Best to buy the whole drawbar kit rather
than do it piecemeal.
Click on the link below.
The Only time you need the "pto adapter" -
its called an over running clutch (ORC), is
when you are running a rotary mower ie bush
hog.
For all other pto type implements you do
not need an orc.
Some guys like sway bars and use them on
just about everything.
I never use them.
I suggest you try things out without them
first. You can always buy them later.
https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Ford-
8N_Stabilizer-Kit-Extra-Heavy-
Duty_231253XHD.html
8N drawbar
 
You need the swinging drawbar for pulling the trailer. The reason is when you are pulling the trailer does just fine but when you go to stop, any bump and the regular drawbar will lift and your trailer tongue will be way too high. It it becomes detached at this point you get stabbed in the back with the full weigh of the trailer pushing. The swinging drawbar is a solid hitch so the trailer tongue cannot lift it. Pinned into the center position it stays there. When you need to hitch the loaded trailer and cannot get it perfectly lined up, you pull one of the pins and swing the drawbar into position, then push it back and pin it.
 

Hi...I was looking at Yesterdays Tractor for the exact item and when I searched for 9N draw bar it came up with nothing to show. I searched for the 8N draw bar and it found the kit. I wonder if the 8N kit would fit on a 9N Ford tractor?. I may have to call YT for more info or search somewhere else. Thank you for any reply...Ron
 
I got rid of the swinging drawbar and here is why. sometimes the "bar" is too long for an implement and will NOT allow an implement to raise.
 
(quoted from post at 11:17:22 11/21/18)
Hi...I was looking at Yesterdays Tractor for the exact item and when I searched for 9N draw bar it came up with nothing to show. I searched for the 8N draw bar and it found the kit. I wonder if the 8N kit would fit on a 9N Ford tractor?. I may have to call YT for more info or search somewhere else. Thank you for any reply...Ron

no. the 8N has holes tapped in the differential housing to mount the drawbar. 9Ns and 2Ns lack those holes.
 
The kit Dollar Bill shows below is the aftermarket swinging drawbar style copied from the Hundred Series setup which was a much improved swinging drawbar than the previously used Dearborn Swinging Drawbar setup used on the 8N and NAA. Why? With the Dearborn style, in order to use the 3-pt lift with an implement, you must remove the entire setup. With the FORD revised swinging drawbar, you can leave the setup in place and use the 3-pt lift with most all implements and not have any interference issues. It is also very important you get the essential manuals, the original 8N Operator's Manual for one as it has the safety information on the correct way to use the swinging drawbar with the stay bars and warning badge lockout chain. You never pull from above the PTO shaft, and NEVER use the 3-point lift with the STAY BARS attached.

OEM DEARBORN SWINGING DRAWBAR CORRECTLY ASSEMBLED:
Hq6lzfsh.jpg

OEM FORD HUNDRED SERIES TRACTOR REVISED DRAWBAR KIT:
g0ys9MAh.jpg

NONE of the parts from each will interchange. The revised unit has the drawbar, the hanger, the clevis bracket, pin, and check chains. Another advantage with the newer unit is you do not need the 11-hole standard drawbar, lockout badge, or STAY BARS to use it. Raise the lift arms up out of the way and its good to go. ALL the new/aftermarket swinging drawbar kits are like this now. There are a few who make and sell a clone of the OEM Dearborn style with the roller bar and some originals pop up on ebay and in ADS for those who want originality. I prefer common sense logic for the later revised style to have and work with in the field. nnalert sells a kit for the 48-55 tractors and also a kit for the 55-59 tractors. There was someone here who at time made repops of the Dearborn Swinging Drawbar and also a special adaptor bracket to bolt to the 9N and 2N models to use it with. ALL 8N and NAA tractors came with the 8N-802 Clevis Bracket on each new tractor but the swinging drawbar was an optional dealer accessory.


Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)
 
There IS a riveted drawbar hanger like the one shown in Tim's drawing that will bolt up to an 8n. 2000 Tractor maybe? I couldn't find one so I shortened the hanger off an 801. You can't just bolt anything on there, it needs to be the right height.
 
An Excellent !! description for this type of draw bar set up. My question at this point of confusion is :: Where do I go to find this type of set up for my 9N ??. I would like to stay with equipment that is Safe to use as you described and pretty simple to Connect or Disconnect it. I have not searched external link parts as of yet for a 9N setup for a Draw Bar for pulling a trailer or wagon. I'm new to the Ford 9N world, probably should have shopped for an 8N.
Thank you for your explanation on this issue....Ron
 
I suggest if you want a real drawbar upgrade to a
newer tractor.
Skip the 8Ns and go to a 600, 800, 2000, 3000 or
4000.
And do it before you blow a bunch of $ on doo dads
and gew gaws on your present N.
The models listed above will all give you better
brakes, position control, a real drawbar, live
hydraulics, more gears and more horsepower.
They could also give you live pto, power steering,
differential lock, remote hydraulics plus other
refinements.
 
"Where do I go to find this type of set up for my 9N ?"

The 9N/2N does not have the four bolt holes in the bottom of the differential housing for mounting the swinging drawbar.
 
(quoted from post at 11:34:50 11/22/18) "Where do I go to find this type of set up for my 9N ?"

The 9N/2N does not have the four bolt holes in the bottom of the differential housing for mounting the swinging drawbar.

An obstacle that is not hard to overcome. Simply fabricate a wrap around bracket that attaches to the studs/bolts on the sides of the differential housing and use it to mount the 4 bolt SDA6 swinging drawbar kit on any 9N or 2N tractor. It doesn't have to be pretty.

TOH

IMG_1658.jpg
 
I got one from YT on one of my 8n's and love it, much better than hooking a trailer to the drawbar set up. It is short enough so that it is out of the way.
 

I Wish that someone on this Drawbar Subject Forum would take a photo of their 9N Stabilizer Bar setup so that I could see
just how everything in the Y.T 9N kit is installed or if not from Y.T and it works well for your 9N ...I would surly like to see it. Y.T does have a Stabilizer Kit for the 9N but it may not be what I should be using, if I want to haul a small trailer out of the Woods full of fireplace wood.

This Topic is very interesting and especially the Photos on 8N's but not any 9N's from what I could see. I don't have a Welder. I need to buy something that is Safe...Ron
 
(quoted from post at 14:05:58 11/22/18)
I Wish that someone on this Drawbar Subject Forum would take a photo of their 9N Stabilizer Bar setup so that I could see
just how everything in the Y.T 9N kit is installed or if not from Y.T and it works well for your 9N ...I would surly like to see it. Y.T does have a Stabilizer Kit for the 9N but it may not be what I should be using, if I want to haul a small trailer out of the Woods full of fireplace wood.

This Topic is very interesting and especially the Photos on 8N's but not any 9N's from what I could see. I don't have a Welder. I need to buy something that is Safe...Ron

Call me - if you are not in a rush I may be able to offer a solution.

TOH
301.655.0631
 
(quoted from post at 16:14:34 11/22/18)
(quoted from post at 14:05:58 11/22/18)
I Wish that someone on this Drawbar Subject Forum would take a photo of their 9N Stabilizer Bar setup so that I could see
just how everything in the Y.T 9N kit is installed or if not from Y.T and it works well for your 9N ...I would surly like to see it. Y.T does have a Stabilizer Kit for the 9N but it may not be what I should be using, if I want to haul a small trailer out of the Woods full of fireplace wood.

This Topic is very interesting and especially the Photos on 8N's but not any 9N's from what I could see. I don't have a Welder. I need to buy something that is Safe...Ron

Call me - if you are not in a rush I may be able to offer a solution.

TOH
301.655.0631

I sure will give you a call, not today though. Friday might be a better day, I'm on the East Coast, Maine Day Light Savings is in affect. What would be a good Time for me to call when you have a few minutes to spare about the [b:124ee73be4]Stabilizer Bar on a 9N[/b:124ee73be4].....and thank you for the Offer.....Ron
 

I just noticed your in Maryland....so we are on the Same Page ....Time wise....just let me know a good time for you....Ron
 
(quoted from post at 15:52:47 11/22/18)
I just noticed your in Maryland....so we are on the Same Page ....Time wise....just let me know a good time for you....Ron

You can call any day between 0800 and my bedtime. That isn't as late as it used to be ;-)

TOH
 
Dollar Bill, Ultradog, RM-MN, PatrickB, Tim PloughNman,

Thanks for the explanations, illustrations, warnings and logic. Essential manuals are on order from YT and will be ordering a Ford type Swinging Drawbar setup soon.

Haven't checked for a size match between my field mower and the 8N PTO yet but will acquire the ORC before next spring.

Best regards to all that responded.
 

cvphoto4214.jpg


The drawbar is from an old John Deere 60. It is just under 46" long, 2" wide, and 1" thick. The brackets were all fabricated from scraps I had lying around. I used a 3/4 diameter toplink as the pin for drawbar.
 
(quoted from post at 23:27:56 11/29/18)
<img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto4214.jpg">

The drawbar is from an old John Deere 60. It is just under 46" long, 2" wide, and 1" thick. The brackets were all fabricated from scraps I had lying around. I used a 3/4 diameter toplink as the pin for drawbar.

What does that lynch pin on the very bottom do ? The pivot pin can't come out can it ? If the pin sticks down an inch and the rear end housing is a half inch above the pin , I would think it would hit the rear end housing before even coming close to coming out ?

I bought a hitch set up for my 3000 and it is great for pulling the baler . Even swung to the side I have to watch hitting it with the pto shaft when using the bush hog . I would love to just un pin the draw bar and remove it when I do not need it . I think I would have to remove the 4 bolts and drop the whole assemble .
 
Some guys like sway bars and use them on
just about everything.
I never use them.
I suggest you try things out without them
first. You can always buy them later.

I have fought hooking up sway bars on the mower and always disliked that process , trying to rock the heavy mower side to side until the holes / pin lined up . Trying to install one on each side is even more fun . I recon there are a few factors like terrain , worn equipment , sloppy linkage , type of equipment , good ol personal preference , etc that may or may not make you want a sway bar . The two best purchase I have made were the inline slip clutch that bolts to the gear box of the mower and an adjustable sway bars . Like you say , you can always buy them later .
 

I'm a little late chiming in, but here's another hitch alternative(based on the Ferguson "pick-up hitch")I installed on my '48 a few years ago.....





I have a ball or a hook as you can see in the pics. It works either fixed to the housing, or with the pick-up assembly mounted to the lift arms.

Jeff
 
All good options and definitely food for thought and consideration.

I dug my old Blade out of the weeds where it's been since I sold the Farmall Mdl M 2 years ago. Mounted it to the 8N for a look see and found it'll work pretty well once I get the lift arms stabilized ……….. which leads to the needed decision on stabilizer bars and/ or stay chain mounts.

mvphoto27459.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 17:41:15 12/01/18)
I'm a little late chiming in, but here's another hitch alternative(based on the Ferguson "pick-up hitch")I installed on my '48 a few years ago.....





I have a ball or a hook as you can see in the pics. It works either fixed to the housing, or with the pick-up assembly mounted to the lift arms.

Jeff
That looks like a pretty Safe setup for a Reese Hitch or a hook. Where would I purchase a set up like this for my 9N??..Ron
 

I went looking for a "kit" several years ago before I fabricated my version from stock tubing, angle iron, etc. At that time there was a company in the UK making the parts like Ferguson did back in the 40's, but they were not set up to export to the US.

So, I sketched out the parts & started cutting, drilling, welding, & grinding.

Jeff
 

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