Need some suggestions, the stump jumper is winning!

Eman85

Member
I quit for today and would like a few suggestions. A little backround King Kutter bush hog and the lower seal on the gearbox is leaking. Nut for the stumpjumper came right off but the stumpjumper is on there. I've tried all of the beating, banging and soaking. I've made a cradle with a log chain around the blades and put a 12 ton bottle jack in there trying to pull it off. I've stood it up and tried heating the splines first with a propane plumbers torch then broke out the Oxy-acetelyne. I've used logging wedges behind the stumpjumper and pry bars while heating. I've sprayed PB Blaster on the hot splines. I now have it back flat on stands after all of that and set the bottle jack up again and I've got pressure on it which is how I left it.
I'm open to suggestions. I really want to not destroy it but I do have an old K-K bush hog that has a rusty body and the stump jumper is loose on it. If I really need to I can use the other stump jumper and even the gearbox of need be.
 
Hi, Eman85: After the beating, heating, and so on, do you think the bottom bearing is still OK? Just talking....

Dennis M. in W. Tenn.
 
Fill the gear box with corn head grease and check it before you use it. Mine has leaked for 15 years.
 
If the bottom bearing is bad I'll replace it. If I want I've got another gearbox that I know is good too.
What is corn head grease?

Any opinions on leaving the nut loose and going ahead and mowing with it?
 
(quoted from post at 18:07:04 10/23/18)
How I got mine off in this post.

https://forums.yesterdaystractors.c...order=asc&highlight=bush+hog&start=15

I've got the same exact puller made for pulling old Chrysler and Jeep drums on tapered axle shafts. Has the part you hit with a hammer if the impact gun can't get it. I was looking at it and how I was going to rig it! I'm low on gases for my torch and this isn't job 1 so I might wait to get my tanks filled and give it another go with heat. With the wedges in place I think I can get the rosebud on the main part of the splines.
 
I did the same thing but opposite. It's been a while so the details are a bit fuzzy but my mower didn't have holes for attaching a puller from the bottom side of the stump jumper. I used two pieces of all-thread down through the bolt holes on the gearbox and a couple of nuts to push/press the stump jumper off from the top side. I believe I welded a nut the top side of the all-thread and dropped it down through the bolt holes on the gearbox then threaded a nut onto the all-thread between the mower deck and stump jumper. Used a wrench to hold the bottom side nut while using another to tighten the top side nut/all-thread. Clear as mud?
 

Eman85, get some corn head grease and get back to the honey do list before you wreck your marriage.
 

Plenty of time for honey do's and bushhogs too.
I researched corn head grease and it's 0 weight grease. None available as corn head grease around here but local parts store had some in a squeeze bottle from Prime that;s used in gear boxes like corn heads. I'll give it a try and I might leave the nut loose and see if anything happens. Kind of like loosening the wheel hubs on an N, which is what I last used that puller on.
If it doesn't work I will drill holes and use the puller and will replace the seals.
Thanks for the tips and tricks, never too old to learn something new!
 
A suggestion based on my experience with the splined shaft driving the hydrauic pump for my Wagner
loader. The splined shaft slides into the crankshaft pulley adaptor. One time taking off the loader I
could not get the shaft out of the adaptor.
Lube, a slide hammer, smacking the end of the shaft did nothing. My pipe wrench solved the problem.
You say what?
What I did was to put quick torque on the shaft IN THE DIRECTION IT ROTATES. The slip fit of the shaft
into the adaptor allowed wear to occur over time and wear the splines of the shaft. Being that it
protruded slightly past the crankshaft drive adaptor, the splines were worn in such a way that the
unworn portion was locked aginst the adaptor. By torqueing the shaft in the direction that it turns
unlocked the spline and it freely pulled out by hand. Did I say GRRRRRR! I'm glad that no one was
around to hear me.
 
When I changed the seal on my MF cutter, I put the blade mount bar under extreme pressure and then applied oxy/acet heat until it let go.

I SHOULD HAVE applied the extreme heat before I put it under as much force as I did . . . but I was lucky and didn't damage the blade mount bar..
mvphoto25773.jpg
 
I applied heat first and as I said used a bottle jack against the shaft held with a cradle I made with heavy log chain around the stumpjumper end of the blades. I put enough pressure to worry me and I left it like that over night. This is going to take Hobo's method of drilling 2 holes and using HD puller.
Right now I'm fitting the PTO shaft and checking and adjusting the slipper clutch.
 
(quoted from post at 19:22:03 10/25/18) I applied heat first and as I said used a bottle jack against the shaft held with a cradle I made with heavy log chain around the stumpjumper end of the blades. I put enough pressure to worry me and I left it like that over night. This is going to take Hobo's method of drilling 2 holes and using HD puller.
Right now I'm fitting the PTO shaft and checking and adjusting the slipper clutch.

You mighta missed my point . . .
that If you apply the heat while it is under serious and sufficient pull pressure more tightening at the ready, then it will let you know when it has had enough heat by letting go.
:D
 

When it first let go it only moved 1/8" . . . so another two go-arounds as I recall . . . but I turned 72 this month so take my tale with a grain of salt.
 
In my first post I meant to say that I was glad I didn't damage the blade bar's cast mount!

I shudder when I look at that photo!
I should never have waited so long to start applying super Oxy/Acet heat . . . waited so long, thinking it must be going to give any second now, that I bent that flat bar over the bottom of my inverted screw jack. Well at least i got an idea of how strong the cast blade bar mount was to withstand that! Double DOH!
 
I put 00 grease in and bushhogged the pasture to test it and everything worked great. I left the nut loose but the stumpjumper didn't loosen at all. The 00 grease leaks some out the bottom seal, but not too bad so I finished all of the mowing. Now I'll get it back in when I get a chance and get the stumpjumper off, sharpen the blades and replace the seals and paint it.
 

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