Hard Starting 2N

If I let my 2N set more than a few days I have trouble starting it. It is a 12 volt conversion and this problem just started happening in the last year or so. It will crank good and seem like it wants to start. It may even run rough, miss and then stop. Sometimes I may even need to use starting fluid to get it to start and or run. I've noticed that when it does catch and start to run it will blow a lot of blue smoke, like its a 2 cycle engine. It will stop this after a minute or 2 and runs good, no lack of power. If I stop it and need to start it again, it fires right up with no problem. More of a problem in cold weather than in warm or hot weather. I'm running Autolite 437 or Champion H12 plugs. Good spark when checked, also seems to have good gas flow. Would it help to put Spark plug non-foulers on the plugs? Would a hotter plug help, if so what range would you suggest? I'm also thinking of going to some type of automotive or other type of dry paper air filter instead of the oil bath air cleaner with the jar pre-filter. I'm running 10W-30 oil. I don't use the tractor often, but would like it to be available for a back up for snow removal, and other tasks. Have a back blade and a Wagner loader on it. Thanks for any and all help and suggestions.
Bill

Maybe gas getting by needle valve, flooding motor. Do you turn gas off when not in use?

If the answer to smokepole's question is,"yes", then I would ask, when was the last time the points were checked for pitting, gap etc? It could also be a compression issue. The blue smoke is a red flag. He may be just a tired 2N that needs an overhaul.

Well you can start with the basic simple fuel flow test. My money would be on the 12V switch over job though. Many electrical issues are 'diagnosed' to be fuel issues and vice versa. "...seems to have good fuel flow..." How did you test? Remove bottom drain plug, open sediment bulb valve 2 turns, observe 1-pint flows in 2 minutes. Then replace plug and remove fuel line at carb brass elbow inlet and open valve 2 turns. Same steady flow uninterrupted means then it ain't a fuel issue. If starts and stops, try opening gas tank cap. Improved flow? Yes means clogged vent. Lastly, screens on sed bulb clogged and/or valve stem needs replacing. Now, a poor wiring job will however cause issues as described: Hard to start and stay running. Your plugs are fine -either Champion H12 or AUTO-LITE 437's are the hotter plugs and both work equally as well. You do not need another filter either. There is nothing wrong with the OEM air filter oil-bath system and also is NOT the cause of your problems. The Cyclone Air Pre-cleaners were options, and again NOT the cause of your problems. Oil grade is also fine. The cold has no huge effect on starting. These N's will start fine, and YES on 6V/POS GRN even in cold weather when maintained correctly. When was the last time you rebuilt the distributor? You need to find the correct wiring pictogram by JMOR and diagnose your wiring system. I'll bet you find it mucked up and thus the true root cause of your problems. Get the battery tested too. Once all is correct and tractor starts and runs, invest in a Battery Tender to keep things charged and ready to go. You talk about changing this and that without a root cause problem solving method and yet fail to mention the one system that is most likely the culprit -the electrical. Avoid swapping out and/or adding any new parts to the equation. Troubleshoot better and report back.

Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)

"My money would be on the 12V switch over job though."

"Now, a poor wiring job will however cause issues as described"

"The cold has no huge effect on starting."

"You need to find the correct wiring pictogram by JMOR and diagnose your wiring system. I'll bet you find it mucked up and thus the true root cause of your problems."

You keep telling him to analyze the problem and not go throwing parts at the tractor ie, leaping to conclusions.
Yet you are doing exactly that: hinting, assuming, implying, suggesting and surmising that his problems are related to his "switch over job".
What a bunch of bunk.

Yes I turn the gas off when not being used.

Switch over was done over 12 years ago. This problem just started last year. Have done the gas tests more than once with good results.

Despite naysayers who lurk and condemn people like me who actually try help guys like you because we work on these systems all the time, whether 6V/POS GRN or 12V/NEG GRN, you are going in the right direction. Good fuel flow means to logically move on to the nest step - the electrical system. A good fully charged battery is important. Have it checked out and if bad, replace it, if good, use it but you need to get into the wiring. Answer these questions: Is the OEM Ballast Resistor in the circuit? Is the 6V coil used? If so, is the external/non-original, in-line ceramic 1-OHM resistor in the circuit? Is the round can cutout still in the circuit? Have you downloaded JMOR's WIRING PICTOGRAMS as a guide? Step back, take a breath and take baby steps. It's a learning experience we've all been through but the end results are worth the reward when it fires over.

Tim Daley(MI)