8N governor problems

Replaced governor on 8N, tractor rev"s too high and the gov. does not move. All linkage is free. There is no compensating spring on tractor. Could this cause the problem? Or could the gov. be bad?

When you say that you replaced the governor - With what - New, used, or rebuilt?

You didn't mix up the rods did you? There are two different length governor arms/rods. The tall one goes to the throttle and the short one connects to the carb.



Governor compensator spring is there to hold the throttle lever setting. Will not cause your symptoms.

The gov. is new and all of the linkage is correct. All the tractor does is rev. up when you increase the throttle and it will go well over 2200rpm

Britt---there is a maximum RPM adjustment screw on the governor...unhook your throttle rod (long one), pull the throttle lever all the way down to maximum throttle position and adjust the throttle rod/max RPM adjustment screw until you get close to 2200 RPM's.

Long rod to Long Gov. Arm.....

Short rod to Short Gov. Arm....

I am at work, so can't post a pic of the adjustment screw, but it is shown in the FO-4 manual.

Tim

At work? Hmmmm.....

I have tried that it works but the two arms always move together the gov. never acts like it tries to compensate for the higher rpm

Yeah---kinda self employed---and don't get paid by the hour....or have to punch anyone's clock, but my own. No vacations, no retirement, not old enough for mailbox money...you know the drill.

Tim

(quoted from post at 10:57:07 03/07/12) Replaced governor on 8N, tractor rev"s too high and the gov. does not move. All linkage is free. There is no compensating spring on tractor. Could this cause the problem? Or could the gov. be bad?

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Is it doing the sme thing as the old gov was doing. You did not say why you replaced it.

Understand fully. Just caught my eye. hehe I am retired (semi) but in the kinda same boat. Drew my last full paycheck the day I turned 70, now still trying to make a buck part time. My mail box isn't full, but there are enough bills that somehow make it through.

Yes, but I think before the rods where originally crosses.(I havent had the tractor very long, just getting it going)So I thought the gov. may have been bad so I replaced it.

the two arms always move together the gov. never acts like it tries to compensate for the higher rpm

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What happens when you pull the arms back to an idle?

It will idle around 600 to 800 rpm. Should the arms be to the front or rear of the tractor at idle? At idle shouldn't the still balls be to the inside and not slung out right, what holds them there with the rods in the front position?

It will idle around 600 to 800 rpm.

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[b:d60fac5c3a][color=darkred:d60fac5c3a]It will idle around 600 to 800 rpm[/color:d60fac5c3a][/b:d60fac5c3a] And when you take your hand off what does it do - Stay or run wild?

You do have the vertical spring in place that connects the long and the short rods? The spring should be under slight tension.

[b:d60fac5c3a][color=darkred:d60fac5c3a]Should the arms be to the front or rear of the tractor at idle?[/color:d60fac5c3a][/b:d60fac5c3a] Rear I believe - Just look at the throttle shaft on the carb. If the idle adjustment speed screw bottoms out on the dowel pin - That is idle.

[b:d60fac5c3a][color=darkred:d60fac5c3a]At idle shouldn't the still balls be to the inside and not slung out right?[/color:d60fac5c3a][/b:d60fac5c3a] The weight of the balls sling to the outside of their race causing it to expand which in turn moves the lever to steady the engine speed.

(quoted from post at 18:57:07 03/06/12) Replaced governor on 8N, tractor rev"s too high and the gov. does not move. All linkage is free. There is no compensating spring on tractor. Could this cause the problem? Or could the gov. be bad?

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I know this is an old thread, but after lurking around on the forum having the same issue, and finally figuring out the issue. I wanted to share. I too bought a new governor. To put plan and simple it was bad from the get go. The fork was never engaging the balls on the governor. This was caused from poor machining the top bearing plate was loose, even with the screw completely tight. which allowed the bearing plate to lift up on the side opposite from the screw, putting the internals in a bind.

I sent that governor back for refund, and bought a rebuilt from nnalert. Not taking anything away from Yesterdays tractor this governor did not come from them. I have been buying from YT great customer service, but nnalert was a hour and half from the house, and I needed the tractor tomorrow.

So I hope future people with the issue of only moving the throttle a inch on the quadrant and it going from idle to wide open. I tried every fix read here, none of them worked. one a 8n don't bend the linkages The manuals says to bend the linkages for 9n's not 8n's. The problem isn't the carburetor. Rebuilt mine had nothing to do with the issue. (but it needed cleaning out)

So guys! before you spend a week like me trying everything I could find and read on. I will save you some time it is the governor.

I know this is older than dirt, but i had having the exact same issue as DEMAXX is saying.

I Bought my governor from yesterdays store front so i wouldn't have issues as described from ebay ones.

This morning i pulled off the governor and measured the distance from the retaining ring to the the forks pushing collar, it was very close to 1/4" which is within spec of the manual.

any advice...

my old is issue was the old governor was down to have the first inch of throttle, and the last inch on the throttle lever travel. The weights rubbed a grove in to the housing, and my arms have wore the mounting area to the point they would need to be machined and a bushing pressed in the arms.