Spra-coupe carb pierburg 1B

cobra1379

Member
I know this isn't a ford but I figured there would be some vw gurus in here so I have a 220 spra-coupe with a 1.8 vw engine and I can't seem to figure out the choke on it. There's a spring thing on the side that coolant passes thru. I'm assuming it changes tension as it heats up. If I put tension on it one way it holds the top butterfly closed and it dies. If I put tension on it the other way it holds it open. That's fine until I floor it or put any load on it then it's sputtering and backfiring. If I control the butterfly manually it runs fine. Any ideas on that one?
 
Cobra,That is an automatic heat controlled choke.But your problem is the carbs main jet or fuel circuit is plugged with trash,gum or crud.The carb needs a good cleaning and passages prodded out with a wire torch cleaner ect.The choke should be set just closed lightly when the engine is cold.
 
You might be right. That's what I thought when it first happened but I've cleaned it twice and got carb cleaner blasting thru everything. It seems like when it's on the open spring setting it looses the vacuum then stalls and backfires.

The coil spring thing not hooked up is in about the 9:00 position but the arm it hooks on only travels between 12:00 and 3:00.
 
Cobra,the other thing to check would be the intake manifold,for cracks,holes, or bad gasket leaks causing vacuum leaks,also check the carb mounting gasket.What type of air cleaner does it have?Did you try it with the air cleaner in place?
 
I've cleaned it twice and got carb cleaner blasting thru everything. It seems like when it's on the open spring setting it looses the vacuum then stalls and backfires.

It could be a partially clogged or bent fuel line / dirty filter . It would build up enough gas to start but run short once started . Probably not the case but something to look at if all else fails . I have also seen damaged fuel lines before mechanical pumps that sucked air and splits in fuel lines after the pump but still inside the fuel tank where low fuel psi would start but not perform , both can be conditions that are common about the same time the carb gets gummy . I am pretty sure the fuel line split was from excessive amounts of fuel cleaner in the tank .
 
Yeah I've tried it with and without the air cleaner. It's a paper filter in s breather box/tube with a 4 inch tube connecting it to the carb. I've put a vacuum gauge on it and it drops to nothing when u floor it but makes about 20 all the way from idle to wide open if u take it up slow or manually control the butterfly. Could it be a timing issue? It seems like my vacuum advance is working but I couldn't swear to it.
 
I had the same problem with my 215. I ended up putting a hand choke on it and it works fine. Parts for these models are insanely expensive. Basic gasket set for the carburetor runs over $125.00. Make sure your fuel filters are clean.
 
(quoted from post at 01:45:21 06/10/16) I had the same problem with my 215. I ended up putting a hand choke on it and it works fine. Parts for these models are insanely expensive. Basic gasket set for the carburetor runs over $125.00. Make sure your fuel filters are clean.

I was looking on ebay and found a seller with Pierburg carburetor rebuilt kits. $30-40 plus $20 shipping Carburetor City is the name of the seller from the Dongen, Netherlands. They show excellent photos of the gaskets but I cannot remember what mine looks like since it's together now, but occasionally I have to clean it to get water out of the carburetor bowl just to get it to run. I need to purchase a gasket set to have on the shelf. No need to pay a hundred bucks for a gasket to the parts pirates!
 

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