I have an N9 Ford Tractor. It has been converted to a12 volt with alternator. It has no spark recently. I found there was no voltage getting to the coil. Which was because there was no wire coming off the key ignition. It looked like someone pulled it off. There was also an old wire heading straight to the positive terminal that broke that was connected to the resister that connected to the wire that ran to the coil. So I connected the resister to the key ignition. It started up multiple times and ran. Then I went to replace the ignition switch cause it was not working. I have been doing screw driver starts for a while. After replacing it I put the terminals back on the battery but it sparks and sizzles. Why is the battery getting fried all of a sudden?
- Thread starter Goat Boy
- Start date
Bruce (VA)
Well-known Member
Bruce (VA)
Well-known Member
Is it possible that something at the starter is grounding it out? Everything is hooked up but when I push the starter button it stays to sizzle and the engine doesn't turn.
Also, I noticed the starter relay that I just bought has continuity from the back end to one side of the starter relay.
Also, I noticed the starter relay that I just bought has continuity from the back end to one side of the starter relay.
The sizzling is because of a poor connection.
Could be between the cable end and post, or the cable and and the wire inside it could be corroded and not making contact. (Failed battery cable.)
Or, a connection INSIDE the battery could be cracked loose.
Be CAREFUL, batteries generate hydrogen, and a spark can cause them to grenade.
If the battery has a failed internal connection, an explosion is even more likely.
When working with this, keep your face back from the battery, and were eye and face protection.
To go a bit farther, you MAY still have another issue with a component such as the solenoid or starter, with with good connections at the battery and a good battery, that shouldn't cause sizzling at the battery.
Could be between the cable end and post, or the cable and and the wire inside it could be corroded and not making contact. (Failed battery cable.)
Or, a connection INSIDE the battery could be cracked loose.
Be CAREFUL, batteries generate hydrogen, and a spark can cause them to grenade.
If the battery has a failed internal connection, an explosion is even more likely.
When working with this, keep your face back from the battery, and were eye and face protection.
To go a bit farther, you MAY still have another issue with a component such as the solenoid or starter, with with good connections at the battery and a good battery, that shouldn't cause sizzling at the battery.
You can troubleshoot with a test light and see where the power is "getting lost" before throwing parts at it.
Of course, if the cables are "past their prime" it certainly can't hurt to replace them.
Was gonna say to be sure and use some honk'in big ones, then I remembered this is a 12 Volt conversion, so 2 or even 4 gauge should do the job.
Of course, if the cables are "past their prime" it certainly can't hurt to replace them.
Was gonna say to be sure and use some honk'in big ones, then I remembered this is a 12 Volt conversion, so 2 or even 4 gauge should do the job.
Tim PloughNman Daley RIP
Well-known Member
You've mucked up the wiring and/or it wasn't correct to begin with. A 'sizzling' battery would indicate something isn't wired correctly. Don't guess it can get costly if done wrong and you let the smoke out of something. 12V switch over jobs are more prone to incorrect wiring setups, many done by guys who don't have a clue, but either way if not properly wired, either will fail as is in your case. First, disconnect the battery. Next is to go thru the entire wiring system using "WIRING PICTOGRAMS BY JMOR" as a reference guide. See above post on where to get a free copy. Also use your original essential manuals for OEM wiring diagrams. You say it is a 9N switched to 12V. So, you have a front mount distributor, a 12V battery, OEM ballast resistor, ammeter, OEM key switch, 1-wire starter with no solenoid, an alternator, either a 1-wire or a 3-wire type, and no generator or cutout. Is that correct? Your coil could be 6V or 12V -which is it? Download a copy of Bruce(VA)'s 75 tips as well.
FORD 9N/2N OEM WIRING DIAGRAM:
Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)
FORD 9N/2N OEM WIRING DIAGRAM:
Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)
I have a coil with about 1.7 ohms resistance so I think 12 volt.
I have no oem ballast resistor. Most of the wires are connected to one side of the ampmeter instead. Then to the key, then through a resistor and to the coil. It is a one wire alternator. I will re wire correctly and see how It works. I put brand new battery cables on too and it still sizzles.
So I will try it again after I rewire with the new diagram.
I have no oem ballast resistor. Most of the wires are connected to one side of the ampmeter instead. Then to the key, then through a resistor and to the coil. It is a one wire alternator. I will re wire correctly and see how It works. I put brand new battery cables on too and it still sizzles.
So I will try it again after I rewire with the new diagram.
Bruce (VA)
Well-known Member
Ok, just to be clear......it's the battery itself that bubbles and smokes?
" A 'sizzling' battery would indicate something isn't wired correctly. "
Timmy, in one of his posts he said it only sizzles when he attempts to crank it.
That is almost always a sign of a dirty/acid infused connection at the battery.
Also, if he's got a short in the ignition circuit, a wire would smoke and burn off LONG before a good battery would "sizzle".
Even a short in the starter area would have the full length of the battery cables DARNED hot before you'd notice anything unusual ("sizzling" at the battery).
Unless he's got some MONSTER battery cables!
It will be interesting to hear what's REALLY going on!
Well I retooled the battery cables with 1 gauge cables. Brand
new. Still when I try and push the button to stay her up the
battery stays a bioilin. I ordered a wiring balister. There is
some weird things about the wiring. It's definitely not correct!
But it was staying fine before.
new. Still when I try and push the button to stay her up the
battery stays a bioilin. I ordered a wiring balister. There is
some weird things about the wiring. It's definitely not correct!
But it was staying fine before.
Bruce (VA)
Well-known Member
Suggestion......instead of rebuilding the tractor one part at a time.....why not just remove the battery and take it to a parts store for a load test? The technical term for the condition of your battery is " dead as Kelseys nuts".
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