49 8N Rewire

Cleaned up all of my wiring terminatiins & tractor is running. I decided that the wiring is in bad shape & needs to be replaced. I purchased a new loom from Ford/ NH & I believe I know where each wire runs.
It seems that I should remove the tractor tool box to get acces to some of the wiring. The screw holding the tool box in won’t budge. I’ve been soaking it in penetrating oil for days however I don’t think the oil is making to the threads. Any thought on removal without damaging the screw? I’ve got access to a hammer type impact screw driver however I’m afriad of breaking off the screw. Can the wiring be replaced without tool box removal?

"Can the wiring be replaced without tool box removal?"

I've never tried it. Most are missing the toolbox to begin with.
I'd try the impact driver after spraying the bolt from both sides,
if you can reach the back at all, and letting it soak.

Don't beat it up too bad if it won't come out. If that doesn't work
I'd try heating it. Yes, I'm well aware of where the gas tank is and
that obviously needs to be taken into consideration as does the
wiring. Less concern about the wiring if you're replacing it anyhow.
If the gas tank causes fear, remove it first.

Is it 6V/POS GND or 12V/NEG GND? Either system requires that it be wired correctly. A 1949 8N would have the front mount distributor. Those two factors are the important points to know. By 'loom' do you mean an actual wiring harness or the steel tube mounted on the head that the sparkplug, coil, and generator wires run thru? By the way, there is no Ford/New Holland anymore. Ford Tractor has been out of business since the 90's. It's now CNH (Case New Holland) and they do sell parts for Ford Tractors, but as with all other suppliers these days, are made somewhere else and nothing to do with Ford Tractor. There is but only one Ford Tractor parts supplier, Dennis Carpenter, who is actually licensed by Ford to reproduce many of the original parts exactly like the originals, and owns many of the original machines and tooling that Ford used. Removing the toolbox is a good idea. Also, be sure to first disconnect the battery. You don't want to accidentally short out something whenever working on the wiring. For the stubborn toolbox screws, they are standard 5/16-24 x 5/8 binding head pointed style, so can be replaced. Try spraying some PB BLASTER on them a few times day for a few days then use an impact screwdriver to loosen. Sometimes a few whacks on the head will help break a tight bond. With battery disconnected and out to be tested, verify your wiring is all going to be correct. All wiring harnesses are not the same. Early 9N/2N ones differ from the 8N Model, and then there is one for the front mount distributor and one for the angle mount. ALL aftermarket wiring makers do not follow the original color codes either so do not go by colors. Only two wiring makers, Dennis Carpenter and Jim Guarino at Agri-Services, make exact-as-original cloth-covered, correctly color coded harnesses. I have seen a few ads for independent guys offering them but have not seen theirs so can't say otherwise. Finally, I suggest you get the essential manuals to assist and a copy of "WIRING PICTOGRAMS BY JMOR" to use as a wiring guide. JMOR put together an excellent document with all the correct ways to wire these N's whether 6V or 12V. Follow it with no deviations. It's at the *N*-*T*-*C* Ford tractor site for free download.

Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)

thanks for the responses. I was able to remove the old wire harness with the tool box in place. The new wiring shouldn’t be much trouble except for the wire to the push button starter switch on the trans case, routing that one down behind the tool box may cause me grief.