Carb rebuild kit

I have the original carb for my 8n. It is a M/S TSX241B. 5/52
A number of years ago I rebuilt it with a TSC kit. It never
really work right since. 2 years ago I bought a TSC carb. It
worked. Sometimes if the chock was pulled out about half way.
Since I still have the original I would like to rebuild it with
the right kit. Are the ones listed on this site good or should
I go elsewhere.

(quoted from post at 07:23:18 07/09/18) I have the original carb for my 8n. It is a M/S TSX241B. 5/52
A number of years ago I rebuilt it with a TSC kit. It never
really work right since. 2 years ago I bought a TSC carb. It
worked. Sometimes if the chock was pulled out about half way.
Since I still have the original I would like to rebuild it with
the right kit. Are the ones listed on this site good or should
I go elsewhere.

Click to expand...

I buy mine from this site, I get the ones that have the two shafts in it. Carburetor Kit, Comprehensive. has more parts than the others a bit more money but I think it is worth it.

(quoted from post at 12:28:18 07/09/18)

(quoted from post at 07:23:18 07/09/18) I have the original carb for my 8n. It is a M/S TSX241B. 5/52
A number of years ago I rebuilt it with a TSC kit. It never
really work right since. 2 years ago I bought a TSC carb. It
worked. Sometimes if the chock was pulled out about half way.
Since I still have the original I would like to rebuild it with
the right kit. Are the ones listed on this site good or should
I go elsewhere.

Click to expand...

I buy mine from this site, I get the ones that have the two shafts in it. Carburetor Kit, Comprehensive. has more parts than the others a bit more money but I think it is worth it.

Click to expand...

T...C...
If you are going to do a good overhaul on your M/S carb.....then this is what you need.
Carburetor Kit, Comprehensive - For Marvel-Schebler carburetors: TSX33, TSX241A, TSX241B, TSX241C, TSX420 Ford 9N, 2N, 8N. Contains all the parts shown. (Part No: R7848) $54.52

Great to hear you are going to rebuild the original carb -they were designed to be rebuilt over and over. I would avoid anything at TSC -they have very little tractor parts nowadays and what they do sell is often junk. Years ago they used to sell the TISCO product line but no longer. The TISCO carb rebuild kits come in two sizes -a basic, low budget kit, and a more complete, more expensive kit. I found a supplier that has a complete comprehensive kit like the one sold here only it has a few mote parts and is about $10 cheaper. It comes with a new brass float AND venturi. Avoid the plastic parts and the rubber-tipped float needles. Note too some kits put their own parts in like the petcock, never original, in place of the NPT drain plug. It matters who you buy from.

Tim Daley(MI)

Can you say who's the supplier you referred to?

(quoted from post at 11:19:34 09/24/18) Can you say who's the supplier you referred to?

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This site supplies them, look under tractor parts.

(quoted from post at 17:05:13 09/24/18)

(quoted from post at 11:19:34 09/24/18) Can you say who's the supplier you referred to?

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This site supplies them, look under tractor parts.

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Thanks, I meant who is the supplier Tim was referring to that includes the venturi and float in the kit.

(quoted from post at 15:19:41 09/24/18)

(quoted from post at 17:05:13 09/24/18)

(quoted from post at 11:19:34 09/24/18) Can you say who's the supplier you referred to?

Click to expand...

This site supplies them, look under tractor parts.

Click to expand...

Thanks, I meant who is the supplier Tim was referring to that includes the venturi and float in the kit.

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He will have to tell you that, this site and others sell the float and venturi seperate, don't see a brass venturi thou.

Avoid the rubber-tipped float needles.

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Why?

(quoted from post at 17:03:52 09/24/18)

Avoid the rubber-tipped float needles.

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Why?

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They have been reported to stick closed, but I have never had it happen.

(quoted from post at 21:29:51 09/24/18)

(quoted from post at 17:03:52 09/24/18)

Avoid the rubber-tipped float needles.

Click to expand...

Why?

Click to expand...

They have been reported to stick closed, but I have never had it happen.

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Or swell enough to close off flow through the seat.

Or swell enough to close off flow through the seat.

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Amazing! Thanks for the info. In all my years messing with bike carbs I have never seen a needle tip swell like that. They typically wear down from use and stop sealing. Learn something new every day!

(quoted from post at 18:54:05 09/25/18)

Or swell enough to close off flow through the seat.

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Amazing! Thanks for the info. In all my years messing with bike carbs I have never seen a needle tip swell like that. They typically wear down from use and stop sealing. Learn something new every day!

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You're welcome. Seems to be a newer development but I've had two do that in the last year or so. It's the parts, not the gas.

(quoted from post at 16:03:58 09/25/18)

(quoted from post at 18:54:05 09/25/18)

Or swell enough to close off flow through the seat.

Click to expand...

Amazing! Thanks for the info. In all my years messing with bike carbs I have never seen a needle tip swell like that. They typically wear down from use and stop sealing. Learn something new every day!

Click to expand...

You're welcome. Seems to be a newer development but I've had two do that in the last year or so. It's the parts, not the gas.

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It makes one wonder if the tips are real Viton, or something else. A look at the Viton specs raises some questions.
https://plastomatic.com/viton-fluid-resistance-guide.pdf

It makes one wonder if the tips are real Viton, or something else. A look at the Viton specs raises some questions.

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Yep , sometime the cheapest automotive supplier may substitute materials , even worse , when profit is involved .

[i:8cd87bffb5]The 2008 Chinese milk scandal was a widespread food safety incident in China. The scandal involved milk and infant formula along with other food materials and components being adulterated with melamine. Of an estimated 300,000 victims in China,[1] six babies died from kidney stones and other kidney damage and an estimated 54,000 babies were hospitalized.[2][3] The chemical gives the appearance of higher protein content when added to milk, leading to protein deficiency in the formula. In a separate incident four years prior, watered-down milk had resulted in 12 infant deaths from malnutrition.........[/i:8cd87bffb5]

(quoted from post at 20:47:59 09/24/18)

(quoted from post at 21:29:51 09/24/18)

(quoted from post at 17:03:52 09/24/18)

Avoid the rubber-tipped float needles.

Click to expand...

Why?

Click to expand...

They have been reported to stick closed, but I have never had it happen.

Click to expand...

Or swell enough to close off flow through the seat.

Click to expand...

Never had that happen either but then you see a lot more carbs than I do. Looks like rubber tip, not viton.

(quoted from post at 23:05:54 09/25/18)

(quoted from post at 20:47:59 09/24/18)

(quoted from post at 21:29:51 09/24/18)

(quoted from post at 17:03:52 09/24/18)

Avoid the rubber-tipped float needles.

Click to expand...

Why?

Click to expand...

They have been reported to stick closed, but I have never had it happen.

Click to expand...

Or swell enough to close off flow through the seat.

Click to expand...

Never had that happen either but then you see a lot more carbs than I do. Looks like rubber tip, not viton.

Click to expand...

I wish I could tell you what the material actually is. Anyone know of a way to tell?
I know what company built the kit and will avoid them in the future if possible.
Unfortunately, most resellers sell what is available and don't guarantee a source.
I am trying to work with a couple of companies to get a better quality product to fit
the Ford Marvel Scheblers. They already make them for Farmalls and other carbs.
But I'm not sure the volume of these carbs really warrants their attention.

(quoted from post at 06:23:18 07/09/18) I have the original carb for my 8n. It is a M/S TSX241B. 5/52
A number of years ago I rebuilt it with a TSC kit. It never
really work right since. 2 years ago I bought a TSC carb. It
worked. Sometimes if the chock was pulled out about half way.
Since I still have the original I would like to rebuild it with
the right kit. Are the ones listed on this site good or should
I go elsewhere.

Click to expand...

I bought the minimal kit from this site and installed it in Sept 2016. The carb has been functioning perfectly since then. My only difficulty was figuring out what to do with the supplied throttle shaft sealing.

From my notes:
Throttle shaft Seals

I'm not sure if what I did was unconventional or not but after installing the rubber cup until it seated, I saw that there would be excessive space between the outside of that seal and the brass plug. I didn't want to punch the brass inward until it touched the rubber to keep the seal square so I installed the felt seal after the rubber which then left the perfect space for the brass plug to be pressed in flush with the outside of the boss but bearing slightly on the felt.

In the kit diagram it actually looks like what I did was supposed to be the intended game plan because as you can see part 22 (rubber) and 22A (felt) are shown together with no special side notes indicating otherwise. The sheet also shows Type B and C carb designs, but the A of 22A, the part # of the felt dust seal, does not refer to another carb design.

Without the felt backing the rubber seal would have been too free to wander and reposition itself in the bore.

So the felt is serving to fill the gap and also serving as a valuable dust seal also adding to shaft alignment stability.

terry! good to see u. everything ok? i was thinking about starting a thread to see if anyone had heard from u lately.

(quoted from post at 11:34:32 09/26/18)
terry! good to see u. everything ok? i was thinking about starting a thread to see if anyone had heard from u lately.

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Hfj,

Thoughtful of you; cheers!
Renews my faith in tractorkind.

Preoccupied with the '51 Chev over the summer and now using the Jube to access the mighty fallen.