8 N came to a stop

nicko-31

Member
I was using my 2 bottom plow today and had the tractor come to a grinding halt. It will go into all of the gears including reverse but just starts to move and won't go further than a few inches. The rear wheels just seem to shake slightly but won't go forward or backwards. I did install a new clutch this past winter. Any suggestions ?
 
Good chance it's the coupler between the transmission and the pinion that broke.
Take the side plate off the right side of rear end housing and take a look. If that
looks good it could have sheared the bolts for the ring gear off or possibly broke
an axle. Just my 2 cents worth, Greg NE
 
No, just take out the bottom bolt first. If oil comes out than it was overfilled anyway. If oil comes out than let drain until it stops or jack the tractor up on that side
until it stops, remove side cover for a look see.
 
would I need to drain the transmission gear oil to take the plate off ?

Whatever the trouble, you will most likely need to drain the hydraulic oil for repairs. Save and reuse the oil if recently serviced.

With the tractor sitting level, the oil sump should be level with the bottom bolt that holds the inspection cover on. If filled to that level, you shouldn't lose more than a few drops. If it's overfilled, you may also jack up one side of the tractor.

If the driveshaft is intact, the other failure prone items axle hub, ring gear bolts and broken axle.

Good luck with your repairs.
 
Just asking, but is the plow stuck on an obstruction or set too deep? Are you in DRAFT CONTROL? Is the plow engaged in the soil? Have you tried slowly backing up while raising the lift? In neutral, raise the plow out of the ground and then try moving forward or backward in gear.

[i:654c4848f0][b:654c4848f0]<font size="4">Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)</font>[/b:654c4848f0][/i:654c4848f0]<table width="100" border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" bordercolor="#000000"><tr><td height="25" colspan="2" bgcolor="#CC0000">
<font color="#FFFFFF" size="3">*9N653I* & *8NI55I3*</font>​
</td></tr><tr><td>
4lBA6Yh.jpg
</td><td>
zzYVuC4.jpg
</td></tr></table>
 
Around here you can't pull a 2 bottom plow with a n ford, unless you are plowing 2 or 3" deep. Experience
speaking here.
 
(quoted from post at 14:07:30 09/18/18) Around here you can't pull a 2 bottom plow with a n ford, unless you are plowing 2 or 3" deep. Experience
speaking here.

There are different 2 bottom plows, 8n's been pulling them since 1948.
 
(quoted from post at 17:20:42 09/18/18)
(quoted from post at 14:07:30 09/18/18) Around here you can't pull a 2 bottom plow with a n ford, unless you are plowing 2 or 3" deep. Experience
speaking here.

There are different 2 bottom plows, 8n's been pulling them since 1948.
asy enough in sandy loam, but the guy said, "around here". :) Maybe he lives in the concrete jungle. :^)
 
(quoted from post at 15:55:00 09/18/18)
(quoted from post at 17:20:42 09/18/18)
(quoted from post at 14:07:30 09/18/18) Around here you can't pull a 2 bottom plow with a n ford, unless you are plowing 2 or 3" deep. Experience
speaking here.

There are different 2 bottom plows, 8n's been pulling them since 1948.
asy enough in sandy loam, but the guy said, "around here". :) Maybe he lives in the concrete jungle. :^)
So true!
 
(quoted from post at 19:38:16 09/18/18)
(quoted from post at 15:55:00 09/18/18)
(quoted from post at 17:20:42 09/18/18)
(quoted from post at 14:07:30 09/18/18) Around here you can't pull a 2 bottom plow with a n ford, unless you are plowing 2 or 3" deep. Experience
speaking here.

There are different 2 bottom plows, 8n's been pulling them since 1948.
asy enough in sandy loam, but the guy said, "around here". :) Maybe he lives in the concrete jungle. :^)
So true!

it's tom. i figured "around here" meant in his fantasy world, where no one can manage to keep an N in service.
 
I was able to get the tractor home, it has for many year's been able to pull a two bottom plow. The covers that are being referenced ,is the one on the left have the PTO lever on it ? Thanks
 
(quoted from post at 20:18:59 09/18/18) I was able to get the tractor home, it has for many year's been able to pull a two bottom plow. The covers that are being referenced ,is the one on the left have the PTO lever on it ? Thanks
es, but pull the one on the right, it is easier to reinstall. Did the three point raise OK?
 
OK, I have the right side rear gear box cover off. What should I be looking for in the way of problems ?
23978.jpg
[/img]
 
Cylindrical part above the oil level and PTO shifter is transmission-to-rear axle pinion coupler.

It has internal splines at the front and rear that engage splines on the back of the transmission shaft and front of pinion shaft.

They have been known to break, or the splines could be stripped at one of the ends.

If intact and transmitting power to the pinion, the pinion and/or ring gar could be stripped, the ring gear bolts or rivets holding it to the differential "carrier" could have sheared, the differential itself could be broken, one of the axles could be broken, or the splines at the end of one of the axles mating with internal hub splines could be stripped.
 
(quoted from post at 16:02:42 09/22/18) OK, I have the right side rear gear box cover off. What should I be looking for in the way of problems ?
23978.jpg
[/img]
Check to see if the shaft that out of trans and goes to the rear end is broken or not. If not then the problem is in the read end.
 
(quoted from post at 18:30:37 09/22/18)
(quoted from post at 16:02:42 09/22/18) OK, I have the right side rear gear box cover off. What should I be looking for in the way of problems ?
23978.jpg
[/img]
Check to see if the shaft that out of trans and goes to the rear end is broken or not. If not then the problem is in the read end.

Is it just me or does that coupler look odd to you? Doesn't look like any I have seen - appears to be some sort of band around it.

TOH
 
I honestly don't really know what I'm looking at. I have never had the rear end apart. I did install a new clutch assembly when I overhauled the motor recently.
 
(quoted from post at 20:11:14 09/22/18) I honestly don't really know what I'm looking at. I have never had the rear end apart. I did install a new clutch assembly when I overhauled the motor recently.

The "coupler" we are discussing is the large tube just above the PTO shifter rail in your picture. It is the "driveshaft" that connects the output of the transmission to the differential. The ends have internal splines and are welded to the center section. The welds are known to break and the splines can fail. When that happens the coupler slips and no longer transmits power output from the transmission to the differential.

Do you have any reason to thing the clutch has failed?

TOH
 
My original thought was that the clutch failed because it's a cheap piece of crap Chinese assembly. If I lift one side of the rear end and pput the transmission in gear should I be able to rotate the lifted wheel ?
 
(quoted from post at 17:40:05 09/22/18)
(quoted from post at 18:30:37 09/22/18)
(quoted from post at 16:02:42 09/22/18) OK, I have the right side rear gear box cover off. What should I be looking for in the way of problems ?
23978.jpg
[/img]
Check to see if the shaft that out of trans and goes to the rear end is broken or not. If not then the problem is in the read end.

Is it just me or does that coupler look odd to you? Doesn't look like any I have seen - appears to be some sort of band around it.

TOH

The ones I have seen just have a weld bead in that area. It does seem to be in one piece tho, so problem may be in the rear end.

If the pto/pump work then the clutch is OK. The idea of jacking up one tire may or may tell you anything depending on how bad things are in rear end.
 
So as I had the tractor jacked up and spinning the rear wheel I noticed that the left wheel was extremely wobbly. I took the wheel and I can move it side to side quite a bit. The right wheel does not wobbly at all
 
(quoted from post at 11:20:18 09/23/18) So as I had the tractor jacked up and spinning the rear wheel I noticed that the left wheel was extremely wobbly. I took the wheel and I can move it side to side quite a bit. The right wheel does not wobbly at all

That could be your entire problem, the shaft to wheel hub may be entire gone. time to remove it and check it out.
 
I removed the left side axle and didn't find any of the splines damaged. I was able to destroy the the threads though.
mvphoto24048.jpg

24047.jpg

mvphoto24050.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 17:20:30 09/23/18) I removed the left side axle and didn't find any of the splines damaged. I was able to destroy the the threads though.
mvphoto24048.jpg

24047.jpg

mvphoto24050.jpg

Given the looseness you described and the looks of that axle I would suspect those threads were toast before you ever put a wrench to the nut...

TOH
 
(quoted from post at 16:20:30 09/23/18) I removed the left side axle and didn't find any of the splines damaged. I was able to destroy the the threads though.
mvphoto24048.jpg

24047.jpg

mvphoto24050.jpg

From the looks of the inner end of the axle shaft, I'm gonna venture a GUESS that the differential has grenaded itself.
 
Also,right behind the bearing was a substance like dirt that I scooped out. It's as if no oil was getting to It at all.
 
(quoted from post at 19:32:39 09/23/18) Also,right behind the bearing was a substance like dirt that I scooped out. It's as if no oil was getting to It at all.

NOT sure what year/serial number we are working with here, but if it's after S.N. 486753, there's an inboard oil seal and NO oil is supposed to reach the bearing.

That later version needs to be packed with grease, just like the front wheel bearings.
 
I will have to check into the numbers Bob. That would actually be better for me to once I get get it figured out and fixed to just replace and repack with grease.
 
(quoted from post at 05:38:10 09/24/18) I will have to check into the numbers Bob. That would actually be better for me to once I get get it figured out and fixed to just replace and repack with grease.

You still have not found the root cause of your problem. Do that before "fixing" your current problems or you may wind up fixing them again. At this point I am leaning towards a differential failure of some sort.

TOH
 
Agreed, moving forward am I able to access the diferiental from the top of transmission under the seat ? Thanks
 
(quoted from post at 08:34:06 09/24/18) Agreed, moving forward am I able to access the diferiental from the top of transmission under the seat ? Thanks

You have to remove LH axle "trumpet" to access the differential.
 
Got it. Should I try to remove the Right side tire and axle assembly before I remove the Left trumpet assembly ? Thanks
 
(quoted from post at 06:20:36 09/23/18)
mvphoto23980.jpg


mvphoto23981.jpg

Were the blue is at the raised seam is were the couples break/separate. Normally you will not see them broke/split. The couple is made in 3 pieces, each end is a spline coupling welded/sweated to a center pipe.. When they come unglued the pipe just spins on the splined coupling it will still appear OK other than all parts do not move together as a unit...

I do not like that small separation I see above the blued area and the protruded seam...
 

I am not sure its your problem... All the good tubes I have don't looked cracked... A pix of a cracked one, the slag inside it keeps it aligned plus it has a step and hard to tell it broke in the tractor... If I could have pushed it together while taking the pix it would have been had to tell this one has cracked...

24141.jpg
24142.jpg
 
24340.jpg
Apperiently there is supposed to be "Splines" on the inside of the hubs. ????My friend stopped over to help me out with It and he had seen what it is supposed to look like.
 
(quoted from post at 20:57:44 09/23/18)
(quoted from post at 19:32:39 09/23/18) Also,right behind the bearing was a substance like dirt that I scooped out. It's as if no oil was getting to It at all.

NOT sure what year/serial number we are working with here, but if it's after S.N. 486753, there's an inboard oil seal and NO oil is supposed to reach the bearing.

That later version needs to be packed with grease, just like the front wheel bearings.
I know what the dirt substance was that was inside of the hubs. My friend stopped by and told me I had "No Splines " left in the hubs. "Dirt like substance" .
24360.jpg
 
The question that comes to mind is, "What failed that caused the splines to be worn off?" That had to be a significant failure.
 
Because the tractor is not in a place where I can inspect it , such as lifting It of the ground. It has probably been this way for a long period of time.
 
(quoted from post at 21:38:17 10/03/18) Because the tractor is not in a place where I can inspect it , such as lifting It of the ground. It has probably been this way for a long period of time.
hat caused the hub splines to wear away?
Most likely the failure to maintain the 450 ft-lbs of torque on the axle nut.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top