Moving On....

NCmau

Member
Restoration of 52N. After engine rebuilding and new clutch I am moving to the hydraulic issue.

Problem: Lift is jerky going up and it does not go all the way down to 8" from ground.

The cylinder is dripping oil, the pump has a light oil movement indicating that the pump appears to be working. The intake valve control has good free manual movement and the exhaust has a strong spring return. The hand lift control is not bent.

I do not want to remove the pump unless I really have to.

According to the IT manual, the improper lift lowering is probably caused by incorrect adjustment of the quadrant. I guess this will be my next step since I have the top cover removed. It looks like a tedious adjustment procedures. (I did not check, and I should have, if the intake valve control goes flush to pump housing)

The pump and bottom got a good cleaning with degreaser.
I have the new NAA hydraulic piston and the relief valve on order.
Suggestions…?
 
(quoted from post at 08:02:56 09/20/18) Restoration of 52N. After engine rebuilding and new clutch I am moving to the hydraulic issue.

Problem: Lift is jerky going up and it does not go all the way down to 8" from ground.

The cylinder is dripping oil, the pump has a light oil movement indicating that the pump appears to be working. The intake valve control has good free manual movement and the exhaust has a strong spring return. The hand lift control is not bent.

I do not want to remove the pump unless I really have to.

According to the IT manual, the improper lift lowering is probably caused by incorrect adjustment of the quadrant. I guess this will be my next step since I have the top cover removed. It looks like a tedious adjustment procedures. (I did not check, and I should have, if the intake valve control goes flush to pump housing)

The pump and bottom got a good cleaning with degreaser.
I have the new NAA hydraulic piston and the relief valve on order.
Suggestions…?

Zane Sherman made a great adjustment jig for that. Unfortunately, we lost a good knowledgeable guy when Zane passed away not very long ago. I don't know if his products will still be available. Maybe someone else will chime in if they know the answer.
 
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Is the Zane jig for position adjustment? I decided I am going to leave that adjustment alone, at least for now. When I was taking the top cover out, I noticed that the control arm was not pulling the intake control valve as much as it should have. I determined that when I was able to manually move the control valve. That said, I think a simple quadrant adjustment would take care of the problem, at least I hope so. When I get the piston and put the top cover back, I guess i will find out.
 
I would replace the entire cylinder while you're at it. Why guess? You have it all apart, so do it right the first time and have no worries for another 20 years. A new cylinder, new piston, new O-Ring, new leather back-up washer, new relief valve, and new oil may save you from having to drop the pump. If valve chambers are boogered up, and you do a good cleaning job -meaning take them apart and clean good, then it may be OK. The 8N cylinder has a scallop cast on the housing at the 7 O-Clock Position for the control rod to clear from hitting. Many new aftermarket cylinders do not have this, the 9N/2N cylinder never had it -different connections, and so will need to be machined on if not present. There are four 7/16-20 Square Head Bolts, two short and two long, that secure the cylinder to the top cover. Your MPC will show which goes where.


FORD 9N-510 HYDRAULIC CYLINDERS- LEFT, 8N WITHCAST SCALLOP, RIGHT 9N WITH MACHINED SCALLOP:
o8BWk1Ih.jpg

Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)
 
Shuddering upon lift indicates one or more non functional valves. You must R $ R the pump to service the valves.

Attempting to adjust the quadrant without first inspecting/replacing the cam follower pin and adjusting the draft and position control adjustments is not advised.

Dean
 
(quoted from post at 14:57:44 09/20/18)
ane Sherman made a great adjustment jig for that. Unfortunately, we lost a good knowledgeable guy when Zane passed away not very long ago. I don't know if his products will still be available. Maybe someone else will chime in if they know the answer.[/quote]

Zane's jig lets you set the control arm where it should be.
 

If you have the cover off do what is necessary to free the draft plunger connector on the end of the BIG spring that sticks out the back of the lift cover you can do some adjustments from there.

The pump is no big deal to drop and install do a good cleaning and inspection of the pump. I put the lift cover on and then the pump things go much easier that way. Jack the rear of the tractor I drive it onto car ramps :WINK:

Jerky could be a problem with a valve in a pump chamber fit it once the first time...

Every one I do with Zane's jig is always a little off even if the jig indicates its dead nutz I can fine tune with the draft spring from the back outside of the lift cover. I was gonna call him about it I just never got around to it...

You can see operation of the control valve thru the drain hole...

23919.jpg


23920.jpg
 

Thank you all. I am digesting all this good info and I will post the outcome.
One more question, even though I have no need to use the draft mode, is it necessary to adjust it, if needed, for the overall lift function?
 
(quoted from post at 15:10:43 09/21/18)
Thank you all. I am digesting all this good info and I will post the outcome.
One more question, even though I have no need to use the draft mode, is it necessary to adjust it, if needed, for the overall lift function?

Believe it or not, My 8N has a 9N or 2N top cover on it. There is no little lever to shift between position control and draft mode. My 8N is in position control all the time.
 

If you chose to not free the yoke on the end of the draft plunger all the external adjustment you will have is sliding the quadrant base..

Some tweek'N can be done with the yoke on the end of the draft plunger :wink: Your call I start with adjusting draft with the lift cover off and go from there... I once did not make necessary draft adjustments it always haunted me I wanted draft to work so got off my arse and performed that adjustment... I then learned how to adjust draft with the lift cover on when I did not hit it just right.. Its not hard give it a try...

Maybe someone will copy and post the instructions that Zane sent out with his jig...
 

I got the lift cover in the vise. According to the manual, position control lever disengaged (down), the length of the constant draft control spring should be 3-9/16. The visible spring I measure is 3 inches and 3-7/8 to the top of the cap. Is the spring off that much off adjustment? The nut on the bottom only has couple of threads showing. Am I looking this thing wrong?

The position control adjustments are where it should be. The only question I have is the manual is making reference “Raise the lift arm in top operating position as indicated by the mark being in register.” I see one mark but what does it mean?
mvphoto24046.jpg
 

My Take... They strike the lift arms and cover with a chisel as a reference mark Yours ares are raised two high I can see the marks on both arms lower them so they align with the marks on the cover..

If the rod is not bent that goes thru the spring I would leave it alone...
 

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