8N - Three Wire Alternator

[size=18:32b368e5b4][b:32b368e5b4]Tractor[/b:32b368e5b4][/size:32b368e5b4]
1948 Ford 8N, Front Mount, 6V Positive Ground.

[size=18:32b368e5b4]
[b:32b368e5b4]Conversion[/b:32b368e5b4][/size:32b368e5b4]
So I'm in the process of converting my tractor to 12V using a three wire alternator. It's a 213-4011, which is a NAPA 10si. I have a 6V harnass that is only about two years old, that's why I'm not ripping it all out and starting over.

I want to verify that I'm wiring the charging circuit correctly. Please correct me as you see fit.



[u:32b368e5b4]
[b:32b368e5b4]Alternator BATT[/b:32b368e5b4][/u:32b368e5b4]
-I should use wire ALPHA ([i:32b368e5b4]currently connecting Gen BATT to Regulator Armature[/i:32b368e5b4]) to connect to bottom stud of the Resistor Block.

[u:32b368e5b4][b:32b368e5b4]Alternator Terminal 1[/b:32b368e5b4][/u:32b368e5b4]
-I believe this is for the "excitor" correct?
-I should use wire CHARLIE (currently connecting Gen Field to Regulator Field) to connect Terminal 1 (DELTA) with Diode to the ignition side stud of the resistor block, right?

[b:32b368e5b4][u:32b368e5b4]Alternator Terminal 2[/u:32b368e5b4][/b:32b368e5b4]
-I believe this is for the voltage sensing, correct?
-I should use wire BRAVO (currently connecting Gen Ground to Regulator Ground) to connect Terminal 2 (ECHO) with the bottom stud of the resistor block.
-Some websites say to jump this to BATT. Which method is preferable?

This would totally eliminate the regulator. The charging portion of my electrical would be correct, right?

that will all be fine.

(quoted from post at 20:32:51 06/20/18) that will all be fine.

Click to expand...

JMOR - You were named on several websites as a good source for wiring diagrams, awesome!

Is taking Alternator Terminal 2 to the terminal block advantageous to jumping it to the BATT stud?

(quoted from post at 21:55:58 06/20/18)

(quoted from post at 20:32:51 06/20/18) that will all be fine.

Click to expand...

JMOR - You were named on several websites as a good source for wiring diagrams, awesome!

Is taking Alternator Terminal 2 to the terminal block advantageous to jumping it to the BATT stud?

Click to expand...

I agree with your confidence in JMOR. Well deserved and he can
correct me as he sees fit, but I see no advantage to running the
wire all the way back to the terminal block.

(quoted from post at 23:27:26 06/20/18)

(quoted from post at 21:55:58 06/20/18)

(quoted from post at 20:32:51 06/20/18) that will all be fine.

Click to expand...

JMOR - You were named on several websites as a good source for wiring diagrams, awesome!

Is taking Alternator Terminal 2 to the terminal block advantageous to jumping it to the BATT stud?

Click to expand...

I agree with your confidence in JMOR. Well deserved and he can
correct me as he sees fit, but I see no advantage to running the
wire all the way back to the terminal block.

Click to expand...

agree, since these are all very short wire lengths, it will make no substantial difference, whereas it might if you were running many feet in a Peterbuilt or Freightliner.

Get out your copy of "WIRING PICTOGRAMS by JMOR" and find your set up. Follow the wiring exactly as shown with no deviations, unless you want problems. There's a bit more to do than just slapping in a 12V battery and an alternator. Be sure to invest in a decent brand battery and 12V cables. The rest of the old 6V wiring is fine. Are you going to keep using your 6V coil too? If so, you will need to add the ceramic 1 OHM external in-line resistor to the circuit as shown. If putting in a 12V coil, the external resistor is not used. However, with either coil you still need the original OEM Ballast Resistor in the circuit. Since the original generator and voltage regulator are not used and removed from the circuit, I would buy them from you -my email is open in Classic View.


HELP:

Tim Daley(MI)

just a quick point.. the armature on the generator would be connected to the gen/arm terminal on the regulator, not the bat
terminal on the regulator. the bat terminal goes to the tractor harness.

Yes, your diagram like Soundguy pointed out, should denote the generator ARMATURE wire ( terminal is on the back plate ) is wired to the VOLTAGE REGULATOR terminal as marked. If you had the ARM wire from the gen connected to the BAT terminal on the Voltage Regulator, some smoke got let out somewhere. Like I said below, no need to "tear out the harness". You don't use the generator, voltage regulator, or 6-Volt battery when switching over. You do need the original OEM Ballast Resistor in all 12-V conversions regardless and no mucking around otherwise. Here are some original wiring diagrams all showing the original correct color coded wires. Since you've replaced your harness with a new one, unless an exact-as-original, cloth-covered wires, correctly marked with original color codes, AND wired correctly, don't trust whatever colors they are now. Colors don't conduct electrons...: > )




Tim Daley(MI)

So I've got it just about all done....

I converted my front mount coil to a round can coil and the pertinix electronic ignition using kit 1247XT. I believe it says I need 3.0 ohms or more of primary resistance. That is resistor block to coil right?

I see .6 OHM resistors for sale everywhere. Don't I need 1.5 to 2.00 ohms?