Plow seat Bracket

Kirk-NJ

Well-known Member
In the spring I really enjoy Plowing the field on my 2n but to tell you the truth after about 4 or 5 hours of riding on an angle in a 7" furrow my back and my shoulder,from pushing against the fender, bother me so bad I've got to quit.
On my 23A oliver sulky plow under the seat is a lever so you can tilt the seat either way when in the furrow so that the seat is level. I realize the with a horse it's a little different but I would like to make the plowing even more enjoyable so I was thinking about making up a bracket to level the seat in the furrow.
Has anyone made one before? if so I like to see some photos.

Kirk
 

I have a similar problem. I stop every so often to take a break, and walk around for a few minutes. This gets me more time on the seat without too much pain. A good soaking in a hot tub of water at the end of the day will help limber you up for another day of plowing.
 
Kirk You could try some extra thick foam under your seat cushion on the right side to make things more level when in the furrow
Keep your cheeks up---er chin up lol
 
(quoted from post at 06:36:23 02/08/18) In the spring I really enjoy Plowing the field on my 2n but to tell you the truth after about 4 or 5 hours of riding on an angle in a 7" furrow my back and my shoulder,from pushing against the fender, bother me so bad I've got to quit.
On my 23A oliver sulky plow under the seat is a lever so you can tilt the seat either way when in the furrow so that the seat is level. I realize the with a horse it's a little different but I would like to make the plowing even more enjoyable so I was thinking about making up a bracket to level the seat in the furrow.
Has anyone made one before? if so I like to see some photos.

Kirk

If you don't mind making the seat a couple inches higher it should be a simple modification. I'm thinking a greatly simplified simpler version of this with fixed stops left and right.

TOH

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Kirk,

Simplest quick fix thing I can think of is longer seat mount studs and a tapered hardwood wedge with two holes . . . before bolting the seat on.

T
 
Simple, Why didn't I think of that. If I don't make up a bracket that's what I'll do.Thanks for your response about the sherman Step up. That's about what I had figured 1st gear in step up. No clay and what's even better no rocks.

Kirk
 

Kirk,

That sounds quick too.

How about this . . . .
Drill a hole thru one side of the seat mount plate, between the two stud holes but off to one side. Weld on a big nut and with a bolt
thru that you'd have easy tilt adjustment.

Terry
 
Tried that after plowing for about 5 hours I stopped and went to watch the pull. After that i was feeling pretty good so figured I would plow a little more. Could only take about 20 minutes in
the seat so I quit.

Kirk
 
I had thought about that very same thing TOH
but wondered if it would put your butt too far
to one side so it's awkward to use the pedals.
Some kind if a swivel attached directly to the
bottom of the pan would be better.
 
(quoted from post at 15:50:21 02/08/18) Looks like something from your milling machine, but not a bad idea.

It is an tilting milling table - the pivoting "table top" arrangement is what it was meant to illustrate. Something similar made from a few lengths of light angle iron and a few bolts would be almost trivial to make. Just put it between the top cover and the seat spring and voila.

TOH
 
You've got to have an extra seat and spring around, no?
Maybe heat the spring and twist it to your liking.
Two nuts to swap back to an original seat/spring for other jobs.
Another idea. Good or bad.
 
Kirk, you're a good fabricator. How about using 2" pipe with slots like the tilting base on a jig saw?

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And there's also the worn out Rest-O-Ride seat option :)
 
(quoted from post at 21:27:39 02/08/18) You've got to have an extra seat and spring around, no?
Maybe heat the spring and twist it to your liking.
Two nuts to swap back to an original seat/spring for other jobs.
Another idea. Good or bad.

It ain't rocket science - four 3" lengths of light gauge angle, six hex bolts, four nuts, and a drill. Put it under the seat spring base and be done. Field adjustable with a wrench or get fancy and use a couple hand wheels/levers for the pivot clamps. Should take about 30 minutes start to finish. Down side is it raises the seat a couple inches which some people would consider a plus ;-)

TOH

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If you feel up for a little more of a project and something to ponder on for a bit I would suggest making some sort of lever/linkage type mechanism that just cams over and locks in to raise/lower the seat. Like a chain binder/boomer or a latch. That way you have a flat seat for normal use then just lift your weight off the seat, flip the lever over to the other position and you have a plow seat...no tools needed to adjust. Clear as mud???
 
Thanks for all the replies. Still a couple of month away so plenty of time to fab up something. Right now got to finish painting the house to keep my wife happy. The 20' ceilings are killing me. Be glad when it's done.

kirk
 

A modification I did to a new transmission jack I brought it tilts front to back but not left to right. This is the tilt function I added to it to be able to tilt front to back and side to side. I will try and get a pix of the complete assy later today. In my case it added no additional height but would add 2 to 2 1/2" to a N seat. It would be adjustable with a threaded rod :)...

If any of y'all have a transmission jack that only adjust one way this will make it adjustable both ways. This is my first one so I had to guess and sim on the center piece it works great.... Why the manufacture did not add this I dunno, its a must have on a transmission jack in my opinion.

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Weld are bolt Mount original seat mount to a (guess) 10X10 1/4" steel plate the original bracket inline with the 2 triangle pieces in the pix, add a couple short pieces to each side of the plat so you cab run threaded rod thru the shorts and thu the center adjuster on the plate. You are done :) how technical you want to get on the slop is your call this one rocks very little that's because I allowed for some slop in the center rocker so it would be free and not in a bind. After doing this I could nail the next one rat damm close... That short piece of pipe on the bottom of the center rocker it the BIG TIP it allows the center rocker to float as you adjust it...

If height is a problem you don't have to use the original seat spring :wink:
 

OK belly full and newspaper read...

The board on top will be your seat bracket.

I added a extra plate to the top one 1/4 plate is not strong enoufh for a heavy trans it needs to be 3/8" at the least. I made the brackets to fit the oil pan also some are pointed down just for storage one is up for the pix... I forgot to angle it and get a pix may just do'dat...

Pix 4 shows the original rollers the top slid on it would move left to right but not tilt :(

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More more more

It has 15 degrees of tilt more than you would need on a transmission jack but what I would think what you would be shooting for...

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Lets talk about this little devil its not a stop its a bushing I originally tacked welded it in place as I moved on and kept modifying and drilling holes in the top to add/bolt stuff to I pined it to the rod because the adjuster rod has to come out the threads are larger then the rod... The other end is captured you will see this in the pix's...




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