Lots of white smoke!

I got the tractor running the other day after fixing some grounding issues and recharging the battery. I ran it lightly for about 5 minutes before I had to turn it off because it was smoking so much. Been running the tractor since last summer with no smoking problem.

It seems to be a white smoke, originating from the oil fill tube and the top of the engine block. It starts smoking after only a minute or two after being turned on. The engine block seems to be REALLY hot. I just turned it on for 4 minutes in 27 degree weather today, and it was smoking and was radiating heat.

The oil hasn't been changed since last Spring - could old/low oil cause this?

Otherwise, I believe I have to do a compression test - but I have no idea how to do this.

Sounds to me like you have a blown head gasket.

Yep, head gasket if you are lucky.

Unlucky, cracked head. Did you check your anti-freeze this Fall?

Minimum acceptable pressure is 90 lbs w/ the lowest pressure reading w/in 75% of the highest reading. Normally you would Run the engine to operating temp, but just do the test cold. Don't bother with a wet test; dry test is fine. Remove all 4 plugs, remove the breather hose & make sure the choke and throttle are both open. Crank it at least 5 compression strokes or until the gauge stops moving. Write down the results & post back for help figuring out what it all means.

HINT: When you remove the plugs, look for one or two which are adjacent that are 'steam cleaned'.
75 Tips

White smoke usually indicates water in the form of steam, black smoke indicates oil burning. Old/low oil isn't the root cause.

Tim Daley(MI)

Blown head gasket. Is this is an easy job for a novice? I've replaced almost everything on the tractor in the past year, but I have not touched anything on the engine.

Bruce, like I said, I have no idea how to do a compression test.

Tim,
If I had to id the smoke based on color I would say white = coolant, black = too rich a fuel mixture and blue = oil burning.

(quoted from post at 22:06:09 01/13/18) Blown head gasket. Is this is an easy job for a novice? I've replaced almost everything on the tractor in the past year, but I have not touched anything on the engine.

Bruce, like I said, I have no idea how to do a compression test.

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Removing the head shouldn't be to difficult for you to do. If you don't have a manual for your tractor now would be a good time to get one. You will need it for torque specs. and other things.

Below is a video that might help.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=11rK9PdWnEQ

You will need to buy or borrow a compression gauge that threads into the spark plug holes and and check each cylinder reading as Bruce described.

Mark

Diagnose the problem before you start figuring out how to fix it.

Most auto stores "rent" equipment for a deposit equal to the cost of the tool. You get it all back when you return the tool.

Get a gauge, remove the plugs and follow the instructions I already posted.

Then get back here and tell us what you found.

You will need to buy the manuals. See tip # 39.

If it is the head gasket, remove the hood (tip # 12) then remove the head. Replace the gasket, replace the head, torque the bolts or nuts to spec.

It's a little more to it than that, so ask for more specifics when you post back w/ the results of the compression test.
75 Tips

For the most part these guys don't know either... Diagnostics is not there strong suite if it were they would be asking you questions to define the problem and not assuming you have a head gasket issue... There bad habits will probably never be broken ... Even if you have a head gasket issue that leaked a little coolant I doubt a compression test would revile it enoufh to make a proper diagnoses... Forget it did and focus on it did not were do we go next after he's broke the seal on the head gasket. He's going in, in the blind he's blind everyone's blind its often too late at this point to determine exactly were the problem lie's are what caused the problem...

Make me believe his description of smoke it steam... Oil smoke can be white. Tho harder at 27 deg to determine normal condensation steam there is a difference between oil smoke and steam... Smoke lingers steam dissipates...

I understand smoke out oil fill tube I don't understand smoke out top of engine top of engine.

If the system is full of coolant even with the fan belt off is it possible at 27 deg to get the block that hot in 4 min.

I spec i would have to at the least confirm it has coolant in it while at it check coolant condition...While at it make sure the belt is in place and functioning. He said low oil it would not hurt to fill it to full, a qt low notcher problem, 2 qt low notcher problem not touching the stick a problem...

I would say if you ran it for 4 minutes and it got that hot you need to check your antifreeze. if the engine doesn't get the proper heating effect through out the motor and just parts of the motor does it causes an imbalance of heat swelling and would cause this. maybe you have some ice in your block or head. I would definetley fix that problem first then go from there. I have had this happen to me first hand.

Hobo wrote:

"Make me believe his description of smoke it steam... Oil smoke can be white. Tho harder at 27 deg to determine normal condensation steam there is a difference between oil smoke and steam... Smoke lingers steam dissipates..."

I agree. People are quick to say that white is steam, oil is blue, whatever, but in my experience white that is almost like ford grey paint and darker, but still on the white side is oil smoke.

I rebuilt a Ford 6 complete in 1978. It was billowing out white smoke and I told the guy his top rings might be broken. They were. When I took it apart the top rings on every piston were in pieces.

(quoted from post at 13:39:21 01/14/18) I would say if you ran it for 4 minutes and it got that hot you need to check your antifreeze. if the engine doesn't get the proper heating effect through out the motor and just parts of the motor does it causes an imbalance of heat swelling and would cause this. maybe you have some ice in your block or head. I would definetley fix that problem first then go from there. I have had this happen to me first hand.

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I think you are on to something. If the antifreeze is week it most likely is frozen. Frozen coolent dose not circulate in the block causing the engine to overheat.

swankerme, if the antifreeze is frozen it will take several hours for it to completely thaw out. Also take a look at your spark plugs. If coolent is getting into a combustion chamber that spark plug will be cleaner than the rest.

Okay, so I got the compression tester, and before running the test I was going to top off the coolant to make sure it stays cool. I started pouring it in, and after about half a gallon, the antifreeze started leaking like a sieve out of the starter. The radiator won't hold any antifreeze. Why would it be leaking from the engine block?

(quoted from post at 18:43:38 01/30/18) Okay, so I got the compression tester, and before running the test I was going to top off the coolant to make sure it stays cool. I started pouring it in, and after about half a gallon, the antifreeze started leaking like a sieve out of the starter. The radiator won't hold any antifreeze. Why would it be leaking from the engine block?

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sounds like u have a cracked block.

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Antifreeze OUT of the starter????? Don't think so!! Starter does not have any coolant in it.
NOW,....behind the starter is a 'WELCH PLUG' Installed in the block,...maybe two of em!
Take the starter out and check for rusted out 'Welch Plugs', squirting coolant out of it/them!!???......Just Looks like it is coming from the starter!!!!!!
JMHO!!

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