Ford 8n rear axle/hub question

Hey guys,

I'd like to start out by saying I'm new to Ford tractors.. I have lots of different "colors" but this is my first Ford experience.

A couple months ago, my dad and I drug home a 8N that belongs to my father's friend's mother.. They never used the tractor a whole lot, and it was never the best cared for. They asked us to get it going, and we have been working on it in our spare time off and on for a couple months.

I have gotten nearly everything straightened out except for one thing.. The rear hubs will not tighten onto the axles.. I have the large nuts on the ends of the axles tightened as far as I dare tighten them, and the wheels still have "side to side" movement (yes, the lug nuts are tight, and if you watch close you can see the brake drums wiggling with the wheels). It appears to me that it was ran with those nuts loose for quite some time and it has damaged either the hubs or axles (or maybe both).

They have paid my father and I alot in parts already (rear rims/tires were shot, radiator needed re-cored, replacing a missing rear fender, fixing wiring, hyd. system repair, and so on..) so I'm wondering is there a "less expensive" way to fix this issue? (looks like new hubs/axles can be obtained for around $200-300 a side) Or would someone out there have some good used axles/hubs they would be willing to part with?

Thanks in advance,

Brad

Rear hubs are not that expensive , I don't know
what they are here @ YT , I don't shop here they
won't ship to Canada, but @ nnalert ph 1-888-355-
9937 about $60.00 , I get all my parts there
reasonable .

Stan
9N 222933
2N with 8N motor 8N345567
8N 146710
8N 179555
8N 197904
8N 199000
8N 254079
8N 362039

Most likely the hubs. They are softer than the axles.
They are a common failure point and can be purchased used.
You might try John Smith or Jim.UT to see if they have some.

John Smith

Jim's parts list

Both great guys.

Someone on this board may have some used ones available, but if not -- do a search on ebay for "ford 8n axle". There are quite a few used axles available from $20 and up.... Of course you probably want to go ahead and pull the wheels and hubs off so that you can see if it's the hub, axle or both first....

Brad.......the spline'd 8N hub is SOFT and wears iff'n the BIG NUT is not torqued to 450ft/lbs. Thattza BIG GRUNT on a 4-ft cheaterbar. Many don't have the 2-in socket to fit and crescent or pipe wrenches don't fit either. You can also gitta 2-part squeez'em nut fer buggered threads. The 1-1/8 threaded axle is supper tuff but the 6-spline hub is soft and the "lock-spring" is weak and falls out. Sometimes a new BIG WASHER can tighten up the sloppy NUT, ...but... the real cure fer axle movement is NEW HUB. ($60, cheap) ........cheapskate Dell

Hi Brad, You can machine off the machined end of
the hub. The splines are tapered so will tighten
up on the axle. How much?? .020-.030 ? We did
many of these many yrs ago. Chuck

(quoted from post at 15:05:58 12/11/12) Hi Brad, You can machine off the machined end of
the hub. The splines are tapered so will tighten
up on the axle. How much?? .020-.030 ? We did
many of these many yrs ago. Chuck

Click to expand...

guess that by "end of hub" that you mean the back side. If so, he is already complaining about the studs dragging against brakes or other parts........seems to me that your solution will move it further inboard, aggravating his drag problem???? Yes/no? OH, Oh, never mind ....well at least sort of. That was someone else with the drag problem, but otherwise, still a good question.

Hi, I guess I would call it the inner part of the
hub that is machined down. There is a limit so if
it has been previously done, then no use to go
beyond. It will work tho if this the first time
that it has been machined back (or ground back)as
some will do. Chuck

(quoted from post at 14:05:58 12/11/12) Hi Brad, You can machine off the machined end of
the hub. The splines are tapered so will tighten
up on the axle. How much?? .020-.030 ? We did
many of these many yrs ago. Chuck

Click to expand...

huck did you do this on an 8N? I don't know how this could work the axle has a shoulder and axle nut won't go passed the shoulder.

could one use a torque amplifier to get the torque up to 450 and hopefully be more accurate?

(quoted from post at 13:37:29 01/13/18) could one use a torque amplifier to get the torque up to 450 and hopefully be more accurate?

Click to expand...

Neither accuracy nor torque is an issue but if concerned weigh yourself and do the math to find the proper point to apply your weight.

l = 450/weight

A 3' long piece of pipe is a lot more common and for this purpose just as accurate as using a torque multiplier.
You might also want to consider - is the 450 lb-feet number good for lubed or dry threads :idea:

TOH