new 8n governor will not govern.

msgtusafret · Jan 11, 2018

I can't seem to get the linkage adjusted right. Set max throttle @ full with the stop adjustment, then the throttle will not go all the way to the minimum.
Once I start then engine and, just breath on throttle lever it goes to full speed.
This is my second new governor the first one the saddle was loose on the shaft and the connection to the proof cable started to spinning in the governor shaft, hence meter quit working.
CAN ANYONE POINT ME THE IN RIGHT DIRECTION :idea:

Royse · Jan 11, 2018

What did the original governor do? Why not fix that one?

msgtusafret · Jan 12, 2018

The original governor never worked right either, and needed a rebuild, leaked badly and it didn't not have a proof cable connection, witch I wanted. So it was more cost effective to get a new one.

My tractor is a Hybrid, engine is a 9N everything else are a collection of found parts. I have used almost daily for 20 years.

HCooke · Jan 12, 2018

New governors, carborations, starter motors, generators, distributors are JUNK. Either fix the old original one or buy an OEM
one on ebay and rebuild it.

Here is a link to one on ebay. I don't know this seller but he has over 3000 stars with 100% reliability.
ebay gov

R Geiger · Jan 12, 2018

(quoted from post at 09:41:18 01/12/18) New governors, carborations, starter motors, generators, distributors are JUNK. Either fix the old original one or buy an OEM
one on ebay and rebuild it.

Here is a link to one on ebay. I don't know this seller but he has over 3000 stars with 100% reliability.
ebay gov

I don't see the tack drive on that one.

msgtusafret · Jan 12, 2018

I have already fixed the poor construction; knob for linkage to big for linkage ends have ground down to fit; penetrating lock-tight in the sleeve for proof cable.
Sims are ok, the balls are the same weight.
I need to know what the measurement is for the bend of the throttle arm "long one" not the linkage, but the arm on the governor.
:shock: somebody must know

ZANE · Jan 12, 2018

Several times I have seen people connect the throttle rod to the wrong governor lever. The one with the spring is the one to connect to. Carb goes to
the little sort lever.

Zane

R Geiger · Jan 12, 2018

(quoted from post at 10:31:37 01/12/18)
I have already fixed the poor construction; knob for linkage to big for linkage ends have ground down to fit; penetrating lock-tight in the sleeve for proof cable.
Sims are ok, the balls are the same weight.
I need to know what the measurement is for the bend of the throttle arm "long one" not the linkage, but the arm on the governor.
:shock: somebody must know

this might help you

msgtusafret · Jan 12, 2018

Looks close front distributor and coil flush mounted, were is your generator or alt.
Do you have a pic of the throttle end below the dash, may be that were my problem is.

R Geiger · Jan 13, 2018

(quoted from post at 22:19:49 01/12/18)
Looks close front distributor and coil flush mounted, were is your generator or alt.
Do you have a pic of the throttle end below the dash, may be that were my problem is.

The picture is of my 8n with a magneto, side mount block. Alternator is on other side. It was an industrial engine that PO installed. I will get a picture of below the dash later when I can.

Royse · Jan 13, 2018

Here's a picture of mine. Shiny part in front is the proofmeter
cable. Governor compensating spring below the linkage.

msgtusafret · Jan 13, 2018

Thanx for the pic.
What function does that throttle compensating spring provide, I do not have one, never did, could that have my problem all along???

R Geiger · Jan 13, 2018

(quoted from post at 11:00:50 01/13/18)
Thanx for the pic.
What function does that throttle compensating spring provide, I do not have one, never did, could that have my problem all along???

Mine when I did not have the spring the throttle lever would not stay up, the gov would push the lever down. That is why it is called the governor compensating spring.

msgtusafret · Jan 13, 2018

Strange, that's not my problem....It's really cold out there but I put one on and see what changes thanx

R Geiger · Jan 13, 2018

Disconnect the end at the governor, the one from the front hand throttle and make sure it moves fairly easy. should really only feel the bumps on the plate.

Royse · Jan 13, 2018

You're welcome. I have an 8N governor on the bench if you still
need that measurement. I'd be happy to measure it for you.
Need a little more detail on what measurement though.

I have a carburetor out here that every time I put it on my 8N
will gradually open to full throttle and run there. Any other carb
I put on this tractor works fine, so I know the governor is not
the problem. That's why I asked what yours does.

msgtusafret · Jan 13, 2018

Nothing change spring or no spring, book calls it a throttle spring.
the hand control will stay were i put it.
the one thing seem strange is, it will not travel all the way to Min.
another is the arm to carb. seems like it can't over come the governor spring tension, I've check it there is no pre-load.
I do have the linkages on the right arms.

R Geiger · Jan 13, 2018

Have you adjusted the rod going to the gov like the book talks about?

msgtusafret · Jan 14, 2018

I have two books, one older than the other, the older book highlights the "jig part #ELO7691 with the a gauge to measure the carb. arm. Then put it on the jig to bend with a hammer for the correct angle.
The new book says to bend the linkage like you suggested, and I have tried that, bending it almost to a 90* still has not worked.
I do thank you
I'am going the experiment, along toughs same line I let you know, what,and if it works

R Geiger · Jan 14, 2018

(quoted from post at 10:28:41 01/14/18)
I have two books, one older than the other, the older book highlights the "jig part #ELO7691 with the a gauge to measure the carb. arm. Then put it on the jig to bend with a hammer for the correct angle.
The new book says to bend the linkage like you suggested, and I have tried that, bending it almost to a 90* still has not worked.
I do thank you
I'am going the experiment, along toughs same line I let you know, what,and if it works

There should be no bending of the linkage on an 8N, that is for the 9n and 2n. I think that the bending of the arm as shown in the old book was replaced by bending the tangs on the spring to achieve the same thing. good luck

msgtusafret · Jan 15, 2018

I constructed a new linkage out of all thread for the carburetor to the shorter arm on governor, hoping that it would give about two inches of adjustment.
While letting it warm up in idle about 600rpm on the tach, all of a sudden, the tach spun all the way around against the zero peg????
Iam still @ idle I take the cable off the tach to see if the cable is still turning, it is, but the tach slowly drop back to zero.
That's not all the governor oil is coming out of the cable!!!
I am beginning to think my tractor is possessed, the tach has oil in witch can't be right.

R Geiger · Jan 15, 2018

Look at the picture I posted. You will see an oil line going to the back of the governor. It is the rod coming from the throttle lever that you adjust not he short one going to the carb.

msgtusafret · Jan 15, 2018

When everything is adjusted correctly, will the throttle control move the entire arc of the quadrant, or will the arc narrow?

This tractor is a hybrid, engine has 9n serial #, but the rest is a collection different year 8n. I have always had to manually control the speed up or down a hill with the hand control.

It seems that the geometry between the quadrant and the carb. is not right?????

Any thoughts of the oil from the governor in the tach?

Royse · Jan 15, 2018

The throttle linkage hooks to the governor.
The governor then controls the carb based on centrifugal force/speed.
When adjusted and working properly, the throttle works throughout
the quadrant and the governor holds engine RPM close to where you
set it regardless of up hill, down hill or load. It is quite noticeable
when the governor kicks in and compensates for the changes.

As long as your governor and linkage is all 8N, the block/engine
being 9N should make no difference in their operation.
The 9N/2N governor and linkage was different, but would not
hook up easily to an 8N and would not have a proofmeter cable.
You should not have oil coming out of the proofmeter cable.

msgtusafret · Jan 15, 2018

Thanks again, Royse I just needed someone to confirm my suspicions, I'll start over with the throttle linkage.

msgtusafret · Jan 16, 2018

This spring tab was hitting the steering box, and would not let the throttle go to min.

msgtusafret · Jan 16, 2018

This spring tab was hitting the steering box, and would not let the throttle go to min.

msgtusafret · Jan 19, 2018

So what can I do about the oil pumping into the tachometer?

R Geiger · Jan 19, 2018

(quoted from post at 10:57:15 01/19/18)
So what can I do about the oil pumping into the tachometer?

It is supposed to go into the governor, that is way filtered oil returns back to the pamp. If it leaking out the tack fitting, then you have a bad seal.

msgtusafret · Jan 19, 2018

This is a brand new governor there are no seals, just a bushing that surrounds cable end of the shaft.
Didn't take pictures, before I put it back on, but here a crude picture do you remember, how yours looked.

I'am using an old armored cable, is that were the seal are suppose to be?????

R Geiger · Jan 19, 2018

I would call who ever you bought it from. I can find no parts that show what is there. It has been too long since I ahve had mine apart to know what is there.

msgtusafret · Jan 19, 2018

I have been talking to them. their trying to help.
Is there a seal in that end of your cable my is an old armored one the new vinyl won't the fitting it is to long and hits the carb!

R Geiger · Jan 19, 2018

I went out and pulled the cable off of the Gov on one of my tractors, forgot that it is dark in tractor shed! did not see any seal and there is some oil on cable but I would think that is a good deal. How much oil are you talking about? is it dripping?

msgtusafret · Jan 19, 2018

It was just dripping, thought is was from the fitting to the governor
So i inserted a garden hose washer in it and it pumped oil all the way up to the tachometer and screwed it up,,,didn't leak tho.
After clearing the small hole in the governor I left the washer out, and it leaks like just past the fitting, same as before.

deanostoybox · Jan 19, 2018

Trying this again, site seems to be having problems

Just a thought-
Could your oil fill cap be plugged? If the crankcase is not properly vented the gasses will find a way out through the path of least resistance which may be the proofmeter cable.

later
deano

msgtusafret · Jan 19, 2018

I bet that's it thanx. This 70 year old brain isn't that as sharp as it use to be.
I learned early today that the oil in the air cleaner has to be at the proper level, or the engine needs to be half choked all the time.

I will wash the oil fill cap tomorrow, I haven't in a while, I do have a lot of blow by. I'll let you no
thanx

msgtusafret · Jan 20, 2018

Nope wasn't it. I ran for an hour with out the filler cap, still leaks.
Still cleaned the cap tho
Thanx, I was hopeful

deanostoybox · Jan 20, 2018

Darn.

Well in keeping for looking for something simple, there is supposed to be a restriction in the oil filter housing outlet fitting. 0.062" hole. If that fitting had been changed out perhaps there is too much oil getting to the governor.

The only other thing that comes to mind is not so simple. You said this is a new governor, right? There is a spiral grove on the back of the shaft where the shaft fits into the bushing where the proofmeter hooks up. I have heard of (in some other application, and years ago) where the groove was machined backwards. In this case it should be like a right hand thread so that it pulls oil out of the bushing back into the governor housing. In the case I referred to, it was a crankshaft for some engine that had the groove direction reversed and it pushed oil against the rear main seal causing it to leak. If that is the case, then the governor is defective and should be replaced by the supplier.

Good luck
deano

msgtusafret · Jan 20, 2018

I saw the rifling on the shaft, and thought it could be wrong, but the supplier says its the same on all they have.
I did find a small drain hole which is bottom dead center when the is key in place with the screw. That drain hole was not machined all the way thru I punched it out but now I don't think it's big enough.
I would have to remove the gear and drill it out. I will negotiate with my supplier on that.
here is a hand drawn pro-trail, of the end of my shaft.

deanostoybox · Jan 20, 2018

From your drawing, the spiral groove appears to be like a left hand thread which would drive the oil out to the proofmeter cable. This is a stock picture of a Tisco governor shaft which is used by many of their vendors. It shows a groove that appears to be right hand thread, the right way.

later
deano

msgtusafret · Jan 20, 2018

I have already fixed the no governing part of my problem, Throttle control rod end where the spring attaches was hitting the steering box which kept it from going to min. bent it up
I made new shorter rod out of all thread for the linkage from the governor to the carb. the old rod you could bend only so far, before the geometry would go out wack.
My problem now is the 2nd new governor has pumped oil up the cable into the tachometer and destroyed it.
Working with my supplier Governor shaft and drain hole behind the gear not machine right, cause the oil to travel up the cable.
Thanx

msgtusafret · Jan 22, 2018

Thanx for the pic, I did find this pic earlier and compared to my photo in screen shot. Also the drain @ the bottom was not machined all the way thru. So I got the double wammy.

new 8n governor will not govern.

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